Thursday, October 02, 2008

Chris Trost's Vacation Journal - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - April 27 - May 13, 2006 - Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria & Romania

Table of Contents - Click on a Day to Go There ...

Day 0 - April 26, 2006 - Getting Ready for the Trip to Eastern Europe
Day 1 - April 27, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - US to Hungary
Day 2 - April 28, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest
Day 3 - April 29, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest
Day 4 - April 30, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest & Szentendre
Day 5 - May 1, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest to Osijek, Croatia
Day 6 - May 2, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Vukovar, Croatia/Osijek/Home-Hosted Lunch
Day 7 - May 3, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Belgrade, Serbia
Day 8 - May 4, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Belgrade, Sremski Karlovci & Novi Sad, Serbia-Montenegro
Day 9 - May 5, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Drive Belgrade to Sofia, Bulgaria
Day 10 - May 6, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sofia, Bulgaria
Day 11 - May 7, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Travel Day from Sofia, Bulgaria to Bucharest, Romania
Day 12 - May 8, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Bucharest/Transfer to Sinaia
Day 13 - May 9, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sinaia/The Dracula Castle Tour
Day 14 - May 10, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sinaia/Peles Castle Tour/Brasov
Day 15 - May 11, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Drive 2 Hours from Sinaia to Bucharest
Day 16 - May 12, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Bucharest/Optional Caldarusani Monastery
Day 17 - May 13, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Return from Bucharest to the US

Day 0 - April 26, 2006 - Getting Ready for the Trip to Eastern Europe


One more day and I'm freeeeeeeeee. 17 days in Eastern Europe is almost here. All I have to do is pack my bags and get to the airport. I put out my little duffle bag and about 3 days worth of clothes (7 days worth of underwear and socks). Over the next day, I will mix and match outfits so that I take as few items as possible. I'll do laundry along the way at the hotel or on the ship as needed. Some people will overpack and bring far more stuff than they'll ever wear or use. It amazes me. They always say to set out everything you think you'll need, then put half of it away and bring more money. Also, you should take your bag for a walk around the block to get the feel for what it will be like to schlep it around, preferably over railroad tracks, cobblestone and up tall flights of stairs if you're going to Europe. It's so much easier to travel light. I will be calling these two before our trip to make sure they don't overpack again. Actually they bought all this stuff in Kathmandu and had left 4 more bags back at the hotel in Delhi where we departed for our trip back to the US.
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Day 1 - April 27, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - US to Hungary

DAY 1 - Depart U.S.

Activities: Depart the U.S. today on your flight to Budapest, Hungary.

Daily Journal

7:00 am Well, after 7 long months, the big day has finally arrived. I'm packed and ready to fly over to Budapest, Hungary from Milwaukeee, with stops in Chicago and Munich on the way. We'll be spending 17 days traveling from Budapest to Bucharest. We'll also be extending our trip in Romania by going up to the Transylvania town of Sinaia.

This is supposed to be a cruise, but the news about the Danube has not been good lately due to high water levels and flooding along the banks of the river. This might cause some changes in our travels plans, but as long as there is water, we should be able to keep moving. Getting on an off the ship could be problematic if the gang plank is steep. I'm sure they'll have some stairs to make getting on and off easier.

Once again, I'm travelling with my friends Vicki and Vicky from Arkansas, as well and Helmut from the Australia/New Zealand/Fiji trip last year. This is the fourth trip with Vicki and Vicky, who are globetrotters and excellent travel companions. I met them in Egypt in 2003. We also travel together to India and Nepal in 2004, followed by Australia, New Zealand and Fiji a year ago. I haven't talked Helmut in several months. He's a trooper and excellent independent traveler. Last year during the trip Down Under, we took all the fun optional flightseeing tours, Shotover Jet Boat and other stuff most the others on our trip were not up to. We also covered a lot of ground on foot in places like Sydney, Christchurch, Queenstown and Fiji during our free time. I suspect we'll do the same on this trip. I like people who go out and explore rather than go back to the hotel and sleep or watch TV, things they can do everyday at home.

I didn't get a chance to call Vicky to remind her to pack light. The restrictions on luggage are pretty strict and it's often difficult to economize, particularly when the weather could be warm or cold. I broke some of my own packing rules by bringing and extra day's worth of clothes than I truly need, but I will wear them. I just get tired sometimes of having to wash clothes along the way, and this should postpone that by a few days. Besides, we're on a ship for most of the trip and there will be no need to pack and unpack and schlep bags more than a few times on the trip. Otherwise, I'd carry just a small backpack. Now I've got a small duffle bag which I carried 7 blocks to the office this morning, and it was no problem for me.

I fly down to Chicago at 2 p.m. Vicky and Vicki arrive there earlier. I may run into them. We're on different flights over to Budapest though. Helmut is flying out of Newark, so I'll see him in Munich or Budapest tomorrow. There are also 4 other people from Wisconsin on this trip. 2 are from Milwaukee and the other 2 are from Freemont, up by Oshkosh. There are 142 people in our group, which should make it quite interesting. You always meet a range of people on these trips. There will be people you make fast friends with. There will be the annoying ones who just blab too much. There will be the ones who can't deal with culture shock or the inconvenience of travelling. Fortunately these are the exceptions, and most people tend to be courteous, respectful and civil. More later ...

Well, I worked all morning till 11:30 am then took the city bus down to the airport. As I was checking in, the travel called me to tell me that the high water levels on the Danube was causing a change in our itinerary and that we would not be able to do the cruise portion of the tour. We will bus all the way to Belgrade where we will stay on the ship, then bus over to Romania. We will aslo stay in Sofia, Bulgaria now and not be able to do Ruse and Veliko Tarnovo. We will aslo miss Constanta in Romania. Some people on the tour are complaining, but the tour company can't control the weather. I don't care too much either way.

I left Milwaukee and flew to Chicago at 2:00, arriving at 3:00 pm. I sat around the airport waiting for the 4:30 pm flight to Munich. I tried to get on the earlier flight to Frankfurt with Vicky & Vicki, but the flight was full. I'll see them in Budapest tomorrow. I saw a bunch of people in my tour group at O'Hare, but didn't want to reveal I was on the tour with them. No sense making friends too soon.

We boarded the flight for Munich and departed on time. The flight is 8 hours and 10 minutes on a small A330. I was the last to board and in the last row of the plane in the middle with no window view. Sitting next to me was a 18 year old girl and her mother from Vancouver who are on their way to Genoa, Italy to take a Mediterranean cruise. The plane also has free wireless Internet so I turned on my PocketPC and sent some e-cards to my admin Lynn back in Milwaukee, and to Doug and Jenny in Hartford, and Joe down in Texas.



That's all for today.
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Day 2 - April 28, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest

DAY 2 - Budapest, Hungary

Activities: Arrive today in Budapest. You are met at the airport by a Grand Circle representative and transferred to your hotel. Depending on your arrival time and hotel check-in policy, you may not be able to check into your hotel room immediately upon arrival at your hotel. Your Program Director will advise you of our check-in status and activity schedule for the day when you arrive. You have the balance of the day to relax after your overseas flight. You may want to join your Program Director for an orientation walk to get better acquainted with the area around your hotel. Celebrate your arrival in Hungary with a Welcome Drink and get acquainted with your traveling companions and your Program Director. You can ask your Program director for suggestions on where to dine on your own this evening.

Daily Journal:

I arrived in Munich right on time at 8 am in the morning. It is dreary and rainy. I tried to get the earlier flight to Budapest, but they couldn't intersept my luggage so I sat at the airport drinking free coffee in the waiting lounge and started playing with my new camera. About an hour before the flight, a whole bunch of gummers and blue hairs on my tour started to arrive in the waiting area. I still didn't bother to talk to them since they were complaining about the itinerary change.

The flight to Budapest left on time at 10:30 am and we arrive at 11:30 am. The weather was much better--sunny and in the 70's. Everyone was wearing shorts. By the time we collected our luggage and board the shuttle to the hotel, it was 12:30 pm. We had to wait for other flights to come in so we sat even longer and didn't depart the airport until 1:00 pm for the 1 hour ride to Budapest and the hotel. As I will talk about in my next post, Budapest is a wonderful town and I like it more and more as we go deep into the city. But on the way from the airport, you get a totally different impression. It looks like a former communist bloc country with cheap Soviet era apartment blocks and old run down homes. But as you approach Budapest proper, that falls away and you see the glory of this old cities pre-Communist life. There's been a lot of investment in the city since the fall of communism and there are a lot of western European and US companies here modernizing the infrastructure.
I got to the hotel at 2:45 pm, took a shower, hooked up with Vicky and Vicki, then headed off sightseeing.
I walked at least 12 miles. I walked several miles from the hotel, crossing the Margit Hid (Margaret Bridge) across the Danube from Buda to Pest, visiting the magnificent Parliament building, Liberty Square and a variety or squares around the area. The Danube is very high. The steps on the pier leading down to the water are underwater and the current is running very fast. The early spring caused the snow in the surrounding mountains to melt fast, flooding the river and all the towns along the banks. On the way back to the hotel, I walked the lengthe of Margit-sziglet (Margaret Island), which is like Central Park but located in the middle of the river. It had nice bike and running trails, and lots of athletic clubs. Everyone was out enjoying a beautiful spring day. Around 7 pm, the tour group met for a welcome cocktail, and then we went to dinner at the hotel restaurant. Our hotel is really nice--five star with a pool, spa and all kinds of nice amenities. After dinner I was real tired--a few beers didn't help my jet lag, so I went to bed right after dinner and slept all night.



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Day 3 - April 29, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest

DAY 3 - Budapest/City Tour

Activities: After breakfast, join us for a briefing by your Program Director. Then set out to explore Budapest on an included city tour. Budapest is situated on both sides of the Danube River, with Pest (the right bank) to the east, and Buda (the left bank) to the west. You'll explore this beautiful and historic city and have some free time on Buda's Castle Hill, where a massive castle complex with its protective ramparts has been designated as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. Mostly destroyed during World War II, the Royal Palace has been lovingly restored to its former splendor, and now includes the Hungarian National Gallery. Your tour takes you to the turreted Fishermen’s Bastion, with its grand panorama of the entire city. Cross over the Danube bridges, including the famous Chain Bridge, and see how the imposing Parliament Building dominates Pest on the opposite side of the river. You’ll see Heroes’ Square, with its Millennial Column set off by equestrian statues of historic 9th-century Magyar leaders who conquered this region. The adjoining colonnade displays more statues of heroes who influenced the history of Hungary. After lunch on your own, you can relax at the hotel or explore more of this grand city. Budapest offers some particularly fine museums and galleries. The Hungarian National Gallery contains excellent examples of Hungarian art from the Middle Ages on. The collection is comprehensive and somewhat massive, so give yourself plenty of time to enjoy it. Parliament, the The Museum of Contemporary Art and the Budapest History Museum are also worth a visit. Join your fellow travelers this evening for a Welcome Dinner at a restaurant in town.

Daily Journal

I got up at 6:15. Slept very well. The weather is perfect--70's and sunny. The group met after breakfast for a trip briefing before setting off on a tour of the city, after which we were turned loose to explore Budapest on our own.

We had an awesome day. Budapest is so nice. We started the day at Castle Hill perched high above the city. It was built hundreds of years ago by the Hapsburg Dynasty to guard the city from potential invaders. We got some amazing panoramic views of the city from high above.
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We then crossed the Danube River from Buda to Pest and took in all the sights, including Heroes Square, St. Steven cathedral and the major pedestrian areas where there is lots of people watching and shopping. I bought a kilo of chocolate wafer cookies (2-1/2 pounds) for $2. So I'm happy.




We also went to this amazing indoor public market to shop, then had lunch at Burger King (OK, we needed someplace fast).


Afterwards, we went to the famous Gellert Hotel spa to see this classic old hotel. Vicky and Vicki went to the spa.


Helmut and I climbed the mountain to see the Citadel, and got some awesome pictures at the same time.



It is now late afternoon and we're just waiting for the shuttle to pick us up and take us back to the hotel for a group dinner. I think I might make an early night of it. Lots to do tomorrow.

Bye for now.
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Day 4 - April 30, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest & Szentendre

DAY 4 - Budapest/Optional Musical Budapest

Activities: After breakfast, you can explore Budapest at your own pace, or you might join us for a complimentary visit to a diamond shop and the charming town of Szentendre, a village set in a painterly landscape where the Danube River makes a sharp bend through the Pilis and Borzsony hills. Artists have drawn inspiration from these surroundings for almost 200 years, and the town has many galleries. As you stroll here, you can browse the art and absorb the atmosphere of this picturesque town, some of whose streets consist of narrow steps climbing the hills. This is also a fine place to shop for Hungarian arts and crafts if this suits your interests. The rest of the afternoon is at leisure. If you want to explore the city on your own, you’ll find that Budapest was made for walking. You may want to stroll along the Vaci Utca where you can find excellent porcelain, peasant embroidery, and other souvenirs of Hungary. This evening, you can seek out a new restaurant on your own for some local cuisine.

Daily Journal

It's hard keeping this up to date. So much is happening and I've written more notes than I've had time to type.

I should start where I left off yesterday.

I was going to say that everyone here speaks some German. It's amazing that even though not a lot of people speak English, and I don't speak Hungarian, we can at least converse in German.

We went out at a group last night to a traditional Hungarian restaurant for dinner. We had traditional soup and meat dishes, and way too much wine, followed by a few more strong Hungarian beers at the hotel with some people in our group. We have hardly met anyone in the group so far. However, one couple has a son and daughter-in-law living in Germany who drove 10 hours here with their kids to be here for a few days with the grandparents. They sat next to us so we had a fun time talking about what it was like to attend German school and live abroad. Great experience for kids. On the way back from the hotel, we took a drive up to Castle Hill to see Budapest from up high. It was all brilliantly lit up and a real sight to behold.

So now let's go to today...
It's another beautiful day, but I did not sleep well again. I woke up in the middle of the night for a few hours, then fell back to sleep. Jet lag will be over in another day I hope. We had breakfast where we met the kids from last night. One showed us a wooden box that looked like a book. You twist a few slats and it reveals a secret compartment inside. After breakfast, we drove to this beautiful town outside Budapest called Szententre (St. Andrew). Along the way we saw and old Roman aquaduct and ruins of a Roman settlement that was some 2000 years old. We also saw a lot of remnant of the old communist days--a whole bunch of ugly apartment complexes they call "Stalin Baroque." Once we got to Szententre, we took a stroll through town and then took off for a church overlooking the town where you go some really nice view of the churhces and roofs of the house from up high. We also visited the Serb, Greek and Catholic churches, a bunch of shops and even stopped for lunch. Just a pleasant day.




Afterward we drove back to the hotel and took the shuttle into town where we visited the Chain Bridge stretching across the Danube from Buda to Pest, then took in the Parliament, Liberty Square and the synagogue. I had to wear a yamaka in the temple.



This town really grows on you. We'd love to stay but we have to leave for Croatia tomorrow. Unfortunately, the cruise has been cancelled due to the high water. We saw how bad it was up on Szentendre today. The current is really strong too. However, we will stay on the boat in Belgrade when we get there in a few days, but several stops have been cut from the itinerary but Sofia was added. There are a lot of angry people, but the travel company has no control over the weather.

Tonight we will have an early dinner. I will hit the sack early after going to the spa this evening.

More tomorrow.
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Day 5 - May 1, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Budapest to Osijek, Croatia

DAY 5 - Budapest to Osijek, Croatia

Activities: Drive by bus from Budapest, Hungary to Osijek, Croatia- We found out that the cruise portion of the trip was cancelled due to high water levels. We'll be crusing by bus the whole time, which will also eliminate several planned stops along the way.

Daily Journal

I got up around 7 am in Budapest and had breakfast. We departed for the 10 hour bus ride to Osijek, Croatia, one of two towns along the Danube that were major battlegrounds during the war against Communist Serbia back in 1991. The ride took 10 hours. It didn't feel as long since there was much to see along the way. The countryside from Budapest to Osijek looked a lot like Wisconsin with rolling farmland. There were a lot of small towns along the way. I think this is the best way to see how average people live.

The trip started with Joe's 45 minute diatribe about the problems they had getting to Hungary from California. He told us to stop him if he talked for 45 minutes. He did talk that long and longer. Someone had picked up their carryons by accident. It had his wife's passport in it so they couldn't leave until they got a replacement. Everything that could go wrong did but they managed to catch up with the group eventually. We stopped for what would be the first of many 2-hour lunch stops. We got to Osijek late. The hotel was magnificent. It was located right on the riverfront in the heart of town. After settling in, we walked the town. We saw an amazing baroque church and a number of baroque building along the town square. We also walked along the riverfront and the pedestrian bridge stretching over the Danube. We could see this also from our 8th story hotel room. We got back from our stroll of the town in time for dinner. Afterwards, a band consisting of five local boys from the Slavonia region played and sang traditional Croatian music for us on a variety of stringed instruments. They were awesome. I'm wishing now that I bought their CD.


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Day 6 - May 2, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Vukovar, Croatia/Osijek/Home-Hosted Lunch

DAY 6 - Vukovar, Croatia/Osijek/Home-Hosted Lunch

Activities: We visited the Croatian cities of Osijek, Laslo and Vukovar, which were the sites of the worst artillery shelling of the Croatian-Serbian war. We took a short drive through the towns and see some of its scars, as well as witness its revival. We also stopped for a home hosted lunch with a Croatian family, then continued to Belgrade.

Osijek: Reliving its own cruel history in our era, Osijek was heavily damaged during the Croatian-Serbian war of 1991-95. Now peaceful, the city is experiencing a rebirth of civic pride and cultural and economic achievement. Among the more notable sites are the Tvrdja, a unique urban and military complex that lies in the center of the city and was built between 1712 and 1721 by the new Austrian authorities; a neo-Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, with a 290-foot spire; and a striking, 690-foot modern pedestrian bridge that rises over the Drava.

Vukovar: Situated on the Drava River, about 15 miles from the mouth of the Danube, the area of the city was populated even in prehistoric times, and the first urban settlement was erected by the Romans. But the area’s advantageous geographical location made it prey to assault throughout the centuries. It was destroyed by the Huns, rebuilt in the Middle Ages, destroyed by the Turks, and rebuilt again in the 18th century. As a result, Osijek boasts an eclectic architectural heritage, which you’ll see on your city tour.

Daily Journal
I got up at 5:30 am and went for a walk of Osijek. It was a good thing I got all my pictures of Osijek yesterday when it was sunny because it was pretty overcast. I walked for about an hour all over town. It was quiet all morning until the rush hour started. Then the trams started running and the people came out to go to work.


We had an amazing day visiting the old fort Tvrdja in Osijek, then visiting a local school and having lunch with a local family in the town of Laslo, located between Osijek and Vukovar. Our guide for the day Valerija was this young girl of maybe 23 whose grandparents were Serb on one side and Croat on the other. The war split their families apart. After Yugoslavia split up several years after Tito's death in 1980, the Communist Serbia did not want the country to split up into individual nations, so Serbia attacked Croatia and other former Yugoslavian republics to keep them from becoming independent nations. You may recall Bosnia-Herzogovenia, Kosovo, etc. where the Serbs slaughtered lots of innocent people, led by the notorious Slobodon Milosovich. Osijek is call the Gettysburg of Croatia. Tvrdja was a fort in Osijek that used to protect the town, but which was used by the locals and people from neighboring towns fled to when the Serbs attacked nearby Vukovar. We toured the fort and visited the church of St. Anthony within its walls. St. Anthony is the patron saint of lost things. If you can't find something you say "Tony, Tony, come around, something's been lost and can't be found."



After touring the fort, we visited a local school where the children performed a number of songs for our group. Afterwards, we collected $100 fronm our bus alone. I got the opporunity to pose for pictures with some of the children and the principal.


We then went to the home of a local family for lunch. This was a major highlight. The husband David is a retired soldier from Croatia who was wounded defending the town from larger advancing Serb forces. He spoke some English. His wife did most of the talking and showed us the devastation to their home from the war. The Serbs left practically nothing standing as they destroyed the town. You could see bombed out home and buildings, bullet holes in all the buildings and several mine fields around the town that they are still clearing. The mine fields were roped off in red tape and wooden stakes with red flags marked live mines. There are also several mass graves still being uncovered today. The Croats really took a hit during the war.

The family we lunched with had several children -- Eddie (12), Theo (10) and Leo (4). Eric was at school, but Theo and Leo entertained us. The home, like most in the region, was like a small farm. The family grows most of its food and has tons of farm animals that it slaughters for food. We had a traditional lunch of a variety of soups, meat dishes and vegtables.


After lunch we headed down the "Road of Death" to Vukovar. This town was a hollow, bombed out shell. The Serbs left no home untouched, and even bombed hospitals, churches and other nonmilitary targets.



We arrived in Belgrade late, boarded the ship and enjoyed a nice dinner.
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Day 7 - May 3, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Belgrade, Serbia

DAY 7 - Belgrade, Serbia

Activities: Belgrade, the capital of Serbia-Montenegro, is one of Europe’s oldest cities and the center of political and cultural life in the country. Belgrade and the rest of Serbia-Montenegro are just now emerging from many years of repressive rule, with a welcoming spirit for visitors. You have a full day here, and we begin by taking you around this grand old city, which was built centuries ago along important east-west trade routes and used as a gateway to western Europe from the Balkans. You also view the old Town Hall, St. Sava Orthodox Cathedral-the largest Orthodox Cathedral in the world-and Kalemegdan Castle. After your tour, you have some free time to spend in the city’s popular pedestrian zone. You return to the ship for lunch. Your afternoon is at leisure to explore more of Belgrade according to your own interests. Belgrade is a wonderfully green city that fosters outdoor activities. You can stroll Knez Mihailova Street in the heart of the city. Considered the commercial, business, and cultural center of Belgrade, this street is a meeting place for business people, artists, cultural workers, and most of all, the gathering place of Belgrade’s youth. In the late afternoon back aboard ship, you can attend a Discovery Series discussion on Serbia-Montenegro’s history and contemporary life. You’ll learn more about this historic region and the situation in the Balkans since the end of the war in the former Yugoslavia. The discussion includes a roundtable discussion with Serbian students who have come onboard to relate some of their experiences to you. Relax over dinner onboard tonight.

Daily Journal

Belgrade means White City, because of the white stones from which many of its early buildings were constructed. Our day started with a tour of Belgrade. Our guide was an older gentleman who grew up during the communist era and dodged questions about why Serbia declared war on the former republics, ethnic cleansing and all the Slobodan Milošević horrors. All he said was that there were "atrocities on both sides," and was unapologetic about the war and the reasons for it.

We got up early and had breakfast on the ship and walked around the decks. It's a very nice ship we're staying on.



We started at Kalemegdan Fortress, which sits on a hilltop above Belgrade at the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers. World War I began here, when the Austrian artillery on the other side of the river began firing upon the Kalemegdan. The fortress Kalemegdan has a very long history, going back at least to Roman times. Like the city of Belgrade, it was destroyed several times by successive waves of invaders. After the Turks conquered Belgrade in 1521, the fortress decayed, but was restored as a military stronghold by the Austrians during their occupation from 1717-1739. In the first half of the 19th century when Serbia was semi-independent, Kalemegdan was still occupied by the Turks. But after a fight between Turkish troops and the Serb population in 1862, the Turkish commander of the Kalemegdan ordered the bombardment of Belgrade. This produced such a backlash in the European public opinion that Serbia succeeded, with the support of the great powers, to obtain the departure of the Turkish troops from Kalemegdan, which resulted in independence of Serbia from the Ottoman empire.

The Fortress offered great views of the town, and is actually a park with a museam and outdoor military hardware exhibits. It was quite tranquil. The most famous feature of the park is the statue known as "Victor." It’s the symbol of Belgrade and was cast by a guy named Ivan Mestrovic. It sits atop a tall column on an observation point overlooking Belgrade and the river below. When the statue was completed in 1928, it was placed at Terazije Square in the center of town. But Serbian women grew upset with it because the statue was of a naked man. And Serbian men got upset because its penis was too small. So "Victor" was moved to the Kalemedgan Fortress and placed high upon a column to make it harder to notice his nakedness and small penis. The tour guide then took us to a certain vantage point and had us look up at the statue. "This is the most famous vantage point," he said. "As you can see, the stories about Serbian men having small penises is not true." From our angle behind the statue, it looked like it had an erection. But it was actually part of the handle of a sword the statue had standing between his legs. From the front, Victor does have a small penis though.






After Kalemegdan, we drove across town to visit the Cathedral of St. Sava. It is a huge, white-domed building that is still under construction, and is the third largest Orthodox church in Europe. It is dedicated to St. Sava, who founded Serbian Orthodox Church and was the first archbishop.



Along the way, we saw all the government buildings NATO planes bombed in downtown Belgrade in 1999 to force the Yugoslav Government of former President Slobodan Milosevic to withdraw its forces from Kosovo. The Serbs refuse to tear the buildings down even though they can't be occupied anymore. Sounded like a martyr play if you ask me. The guide said the US bombers were relatively humane because our missiles hit only just their targets without damaging neighboring buildings. The NATO bombing that followed that was not as precise. We also passed by the nearby Street of Embassys where you can find just about any country's diplomatic headquarters. We also saw the first McDonald's in Eastern Europe. It was quite the place to dine when it first opened and is still popular amongst the locals.



We then drove back to the center of town and got dropped off at Republic Square, which includes the National Theatre (1868) and the Monument to Prince Michael Obrenovic. We then walked down the pedestrian mall on Knez Mihailova Street where there are a lot of shops. After that, we went back to the ship for lunch.

After lunch, Helmut and I took the shuttle from the ship back to Republic Square. We then walked over to Terazije Street with the famous art deco Moskva Hotel (1906)on the corner and the Old drinking fountain (1868). This spot represents the heart of Belgrade. The name of the street is Turkish ("Water scales"), referring to the old water supply system during the period of Ottoman rule. The Moskva Hotel is the only hotel in the world outside Russia that bears this name. It was on the cover of my Fodor's Guidebook, so I had to have a picture of it.



After that, Helmut and I walked over to the old town Orthodox Cathedral for some pictures, then headed down the street and down a long set of stairs to the dock where the ship was parked.

We had dinner on the boat and then met in the lounge to hear 3 young girls from Belgrade talk about life after Communism and Milošević. The part that resonated most was when one of the girls said people in Yugoslavia like people in the US don't always agree with the things their leaders do. Unfortuately, Serbia won't be joining the EU anytime soon because the current government can't seem to "find" several of Milošević's general and advisors. Meanwhile, the Serbs are heavily restricted from traveling outside of Serbia for fear they may not return. Montenegro is seeking to secede from Serbia-Montenegro, and at the time I am writing this, Montenegro did vote to secede.

Tomorrow, we have an all-day bus ride to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria.
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Day 8 - May 4, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Belgrade, Sremski Karlovci & Novi Sad, Serbia-Montenegro

DAY 8 - Belgrade, Sremski Karlovci & Novi Sad, Serbia-Montenegro

Activities: We started the day with a visit to Tito's Memorial, which happened to be the 26th anniversary of his death. The Memorial was erected to honor Josip Broz Tito, who held Yugoslavia together as an independent country in the turmoil that followed World War II and the subsequent Cold War. We then went to Novi Sad, with a stop off in the picturesque village of Sremski Karlovci for a short tour and lunch.

Daily Journal

Sremski Karlovci is a small town situated on the slopes of Fruška gora, 35 miles from Belgrade and 7 miles from from Novi Sad. The town was ravaged several times over the centuries but many of the historical and cultural monuments remain well preserved. In ancient times, the Greeks, Celts and Romans all passed through Sremski Karlovci and stayed here for periods of time. From 1500-1700, it was part of the Ottoman empire. Following the Great Viennese war (1663-1699), the Ottoman empire retreated from middle Europe and Sremski Karlovci fell under the Austrian Hapsburg Monarchy. After the First World War ended, Sremski Karlovci became part of the new state of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (Yugoslavia) on December 1, 1918. During the second world war town was part of so called Independent Country of Croatia. Sremski Karlovci was liberated on 23rd of October, 1944. Today, Sremski Karlovci is town with approximately 9 000 inhabitants, but despite small number of inhabitants its significance for Serbian history, culture and spirituality is huge.

Novi Sad, the capital of the autonomous province of Vojvodina, is one of the largest economic and cultural centers in the region. This is the second largest city in Yugoslavia, the center of a Serbian literary revival in the 18th and early 19th centuries. We toured The Square of Liberty, architecturally interesting and representing the pulse of the city with streets organized in the shape of a star and laid out in five different directions. We stop to see some of the great monuments and buildings on the Square of Liberty including the monument to Svetozar Miletic, the work of Ivan Mestrovic, the old City Hall in neo-renaissance style (1894), and the monumental cathedral in pseudo-gothic style with the inner Tyrol woodwork and several interesting icons. This structure was designed by the architect Djordje Molnar and built by the end of the 19th century. Behind the Cathedral there is the old Deanery built in 1808. After your tour, you’ll have free time to make your own discoveries. You may decide to linger in the lovely—and historic—town square, where in 1992 some 10,000 people gathered to demonstrate against President Milosevic.

All in all, it was an interesting day. This is the 26th anniversary of the death of dictator Tito, who had a special way of working with the Russians following World War II that spared the country of many of the pains other Soviet bloc countries endured and made him a beloved dictator. He also singlehandedly held all the disparate ethnic groups of the former Yugoslavia together. When he died in 1980 without a successor, it marked the beginning of the power struggle for the Yugoslav helm that turned into a war between former Yugoslav republics from 1991-1995. We arrived at the Tito Memorial well before it was opened to the public to avoid the crowds. This is a big media day. Our young guide Nikola gave us a tour of the building where his office was located and where he is entombed, followed by a museum housing the gifts he received over the years from other visiting heads of state. As we viewed the tomb, a band of photographers snapped pictures of us Americans paying our "respects" to the former dictator. Vicki got interviewed for TV but probably didn't get on TV since she said Tito died in 1987, and it was actually 1980. We finished the tour just at 9 am when the Memorial opened to visitors. There was a bunch of old men in suits congregated outside the gate--looked like the old communist guard and Tito cronies waiting to pay their respects.





We then went back to the ship to freshen up and then boarded a bus for the 35 mile jaunt to Novi Sad. On the way, we stopped in the lovely town of Sremski Karlovci for a short tour of the old town square and lunch. Up until now, I had never seen a stork's nest. When I was a child watching cartoons, they always depicted stork nests as being perched atop a chimney. This was exactly what I saw. It was amazing. After touring the square and visting yet another Orthodox church, we had lunch at a nice restaurant on the square. I finished early so took a couple mile walk up the cobblestone street leading up the mountain behind the town to see if I could get a picture of this tiny chapel we saw up on the mountain as we entered town. But by the time I saw it, it was still too far away, so I turned and started back to town. By then the group had finished lunch and we boarded the bus and headed to Novi Sad. While waiting for the bus, one of the ladies in our tour asked if Vicki and Helmut were my parents. We all got a good laugh out of that, and we kind of enjoyed bantering amongst ourselve about it for a day or two later.




We arrived in Novi Sad in mid-afternoon, took a quick tour of Liberty Square, then were turned loose to explore on our own. It was a nice little town. Vicky and Vicki saw this poster for an Andy Warhol exhibit coming to town and were trying to find one they could bring back and frame. On the way back to Belgrade, we learned that tennis player Monica Seles is a Novi Sad native.





That's all for today.
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Day 9 - May 5, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Drive Belgrade to Sofia, Bulgaria

DAY 9 - May 5 – Drive Belgrade to Sofia, Bulgaria

Activities: This is the day we were supposed to sail through the famous Iron Gates of the Danube, which are these tall mountains surrounding the river as you pass from Serbia into Bulgaria. Instead, we travelled 12 hours by bus from Belgrade to Sofia, with a stop in Nis, Serbia for lunch.

Daily Journal

The morning started off badly since the toilet in our cabin would not flush and the shower drain was plugged up. By the time I took a quick shower, the bathroom was completely flooded. However, the toilet started flushing spontaneously so we had one less problem to worry about. After I swabbed the bathroom floor and packed my bags, I ran over to the dining room for a quick bite to eat. By 8:30 am, the entire ships crew was waving goodbye to us and we were off to Bulgaria.

Along the way most people slept. I dozed as well. I've been doing Sudoku puzzles like crazy so when I couldn't find my mechanical pencil, I was in a panic. Everyone helped me look for it on the floor. Vicky asked if I checked my backpack, which seemed like a silly question since I had already looked in it two times. Then she started looking for it. I was so sure she would not find it that I bet the whole group a drink that it wasn't in there. Then Vicky found it in the pocket so Donald, Richard, Helmut, Vicki and Vicky will get their drink.

Around noon, we stopped in this gritty, ugly town called Nis for lunch. I have been so overfed on this vacation that I decided to walk around town for an hour while the group ate. I found nothing worth photographing. It was just your poor, average Soviet-style looking town. It was so dusty with all the road construction going on I was nearly choking. Plus all the signs like elsewhere in Serbia were in cyrillic so I felt like I was really in a foreign country.



I got back to the restaurant just as the group was finishing up. We all boarded the bus and headed for the Serbia-Bulgaria border 10 minutes away. Just before we reached the border, we stopped at a gas station. You could see all the traffic backed up from the border. It seemed to stretch forever. Our program directors had to buy Jack Daniels to bribe the border guards so we could get through quickly rather than the usual two hours. Like every other country we travelled through, you have to get your passport stamped with and exit stamp from the country you're leaving, then drive another 100 feet and have your passports stamped with an entry stamp of the country you're going into. There were separate lines for cars and trucks. The cars were just lined up with the motors shut off and people standing around outside their cars chatting and smoking cigarettes. We got through the border in about 20 minutes. When we got to the Bulgarian side, the line of trucks waiting to get into Serbia was a mile long. Unbelievable. Gabriella our program director broke out the plum brandy and we all did some shots. We've been drinking this very potent liquour since Hungary. I think they trying to make us forget we're on a bus not a ship, as originally planned. We also had to set our watches ahead one hour.




We arrived in Sofia around 6:30 pm. On the way in, we got a good glimpse of gypsy shanty towns on the outskirts. Like all the other towns we visited, their was an ocean of concrete slab highrise apartment buildings for as far as the eye could see. Eventually we arrived at the Sofia Hilton, which like all the other hotels we've stayed in, was quite nice. I got a kick out of the McDonald's across the street with the name spelled in cyrillic.


After dinner at the hotel, I took a walk. I could hear music playing in the distance so I went to check it out. Tomorrow is a the St. Georges holiday, so the military bands were marching in this huge public square on national television. I took a few pictures and a short movie.



That's all for today.
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Day 10 - May 6, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sofia, Bulgaria

DAY 10 - Sofia, Bulgaria

Activities: City tour with afternoon at leisure.

Daily Journal

I love this city. We started with a walking tour of the town. We visited huge Alexander Nevski Memorial Cathedral with it's huge gold dome and heard the choir singing. It was fantastic. We continued to a number of other churches and synagogues before standing on the edge of the downtown streets with thousands of other people to watch the military parade and air force fly-bys. It happens to be St. George's Day today. So everyone was in town for the big military parade. Afterwards, we ditched the group and went to McDonald's for lunch then continued siteseeing on our own visting the Czar Nicholas Church, Rotunda St. George, Cental Sofia Synagogue where we watched a wedding, Church of Sofia, Central Baths and a few flea markets before hitting the pedestrian area to window shop. We ended up at the hotel in the early evening and enjoyed dinner and dancing.








Here's a picture of our four Grand Circle Program Directors at the evening dinner and dance party.

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Day 11 - May 7, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Travel Day from Sofia, Bulgaria to Bucharest, Romania

DAY 11 - Sofia, Bulgaria to Bucharest, Romania

Activities: Travel Day from Sofia, Bulgaria to Bucharest, Romania

Daily Journal

We arrived in Bucharest last night after the 11 hour bus ride from Sofia, Bulgaria. We stopped in the town of Pleven, Bulgaria along the way to eat at the restaurant called "The Cave," which is exactly what it was.



We're stayed overnight at a beautiful Sofitel hotel on the north end of town. Another group of Grand Circle Travelers were also at the hotel so we got to swap stories about our trip with them. Tomorrow, most of the group goes home. The rest of us head up north to Sinaia for the post-trip extension tour.



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Day 12 - May 8, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Bucharest/Transfer to Sinaia

Day 12 - Bucharest/Transfer to Sinaia

Activities: After breakfast today at the hotel in Bucharest, you’ll continue by motorcoach for a ride of about two hours from to Sinaia, one of the most famous resort destinations in Eastern Europe. After arriving, join your Program Director for a short walk to familiarize yourself with the local area. With its sub-Alpine climate and its protection by the surrounding mountains, visitors to Sinaia have long been convinced of its ideal location for recreational mountain sports. The atmospheric pressure is low; the air is free of allergens and pollutants; and the water is rich in minerals. Some people even believe that the sunshine feels different here. This combination of natural curative factors and geographic beauty has helped make Sinaia “the Pearl of the Carpathians”—the historically favored destination of Romanian royalty and a region rich in palaces, luxury hotels, fine dining, and skiing. Spend the balance of the afternoon at leisure exploring more of Sinaia or relaxing at the hotel. Dinner this evening is on your own.

Daily Journal

Well, were here on the post trip extension in the beautiful town of Sinaia, about 2 hours north of Bucharest in the Carpathian Mountains of central Romania. We traveled the scenic route, so drove slowly past gypsy encampments along the way. One guy even gave us the finger. These people represent the underclass of Europe, though many gypsy children go to school and try to integrate into society. They have been give housing and opportuntiies, but they simply refuse to assimilate into society. They are thieves, but they never steal in their own area to avoid being excommunicated. They just travel on foot or horse and carriage to neighboring towns and steal from those people instead. Romania has one of the largest gypsy populations in Europe. I just kept my hand on my wallet and passport.

After arriving in Sinaia, we checked into our hotel and took a short walking tour of Sinaia, but it started to rain so we ducked into a pizza restaurant for lunch. Although I wanted a pizza, I got some sliced up hotdog with fries. But ate everyone else's pizza so I didn't go hungry. There is some kind of communication barrier and the locals don't speak much good English.







After lunch I went walking all over town. I went to the Sinaia Monestary, Peles Castle and nearby Pelsor. We will be going to these places in a few days so I took my pictures now in case the weather is bad. All are amazing monumuents to the past. More on these later. I also walked up and down the surrounding hills past some of the largest old homes I have ever seen. These places are all like castles and nestled into the hillside all around the town. The scenes of the town from up high were also quite nice. There are also lots of dogs running loose around town. While we were told they are all owned by someone, and well fed, they are quite territorial and growl and sniff you when you pass them on the street.

Sinaia Monastery:



Peles Castle:




Where I am sitting now at the hotel is about the only Internet in town. We haven't seen much Internet anywhere in the past few days, which is why I haven't posted much in the past week.
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Day 13 - May 9, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sinaia/The Dracula Castle Tour

Day 13 - Sinaia/The Dracula Castle Tour

Activities: The day is yours to relax and to explore this exquisite resort community on your own, or you can join us for an optional tour to the Bran Castle, often referred to as Dracula’s Castle. Prince Vlad Tepes, the son of Vlad Dracul and the person who inspired Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel Dracula, used this castle as headquarters for his incursions into Transylvania. Vlad Tepes ruled in the 15th century and became known as “Vlad the Impaler” for his practice of impaling enemies of the kingdom, which was greatly threatened by the Ottoman Turks at the time. Stoker’s work of fiction drew inspiration from this bloody practice, the family name, and the castle-dotted mountain landscape of Transylvania. Bran castle was built in 1377 to protect nearby Brasov from invaders. It also served as a customs station. In 1920, the people of Brasov, who owned the castle, offered it as a gift to Queen Maria of Romania, and the castle soon became her favorite residence. Bran is home to a rich collection of Romanian and foreign furniture and art items from the 14th – 19th centuries. The castle sits high atop a 200-foot-tall rock overlooking the picturesque village of Bran. After an included lunch you return to your hotel in the late afternoon.

Daily Journal

Whew...nice day. We got off to an early start from Sinaia to the Transylvanian countryside outside Brasnov 30 some miles to the north to visit Count Dracula's castle. It was built in the 14 century. We drove up an over the snowcapped peaks to reach it. The scenery was fantastic and we stopped a few times for photos. It's very much like being in the Colorado Rockies although the altitude isn' quite as high. This area is a popular ski resort area and a lot of the towns along the way were developing into resort communities. They were like this even back in the Communist area.



We toured the castle which was pretty amazing with all its pointed roofs, balaconies, secret stairways and furnishings. The views of the country side were nice too.







Afterwards we made the trek to a restaurant for lunch, and where the local women had gathered to demonstrate their craftmaking skills--mostly sweaters and embroidery. We then made our way back to town where we had just missed the last cable car to the top of the surrounding mountains. So we walked around for a little while and then had a light dinner, some conversation with a fellow traveller who wandered in, then went to bed.




More tomorrow.
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Day 14 - May 10, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Sinaia/Peles Castle Tour/Brasov

Day 14 - Sinaia/Peles Castle Tour/Brasov

Activities: After breakfast, you tour Peles Castle. Set dramatically in the hills above Sinaia, this 160-room palace, built in German Renaissance style, was completed in 1914 for the first Hohenzollern king of Romania, Carol I. The castle was the king's attempt to imitate the styles of his former homeland, creating a Bavarian setting in the mountains of Romania. The castle's sculpture terraces, art displays, and historic armories make it one of Romania's most important and beautiful museums. The palace is ornately decorated, inside and out, with intricate woodcarvings and paintings of scenes from Wagner's operas. Fortunately, as you'll see, it is one of the best-preserved royal palaces in Europe. Before the castle was constructed, Sinaia was a quiet monastery settlement in the Prahova Valley. Afterward, it quickly became a booming resort town-with help from the subsequent creation of a direct train line from Bucharest. With the king in Sinaia to avoid the heat of the nation's capital in summer, the nobility swarmed to this mountainside city. You continue on to Brasov, where an included tour will introduce you to this fascinating city. Continuously settled since the Bronze Age, the region that is now Brasov has been enriched by people of many heritages-the Romans, the Saxons, and the Hungarians among them-as well as by the traders from all over Europe and beyond who arrived in this long-thriving economic center. It's easy to feel as if you've stepped back into the Middle Ages when you view the Black Church, built between 1384 and 1477, the largest Gothic church in Romania and one of Eastern Europe's finest. You'll see some outstanding medieval architecture in Brasov, which is not far from the geographic center of Romania and is the largest city in the Transylvania region. After lunch in a local restaurant, you have time on your own to discover Brasov.

Daily Journal

We actually started the day in Brasov, with a stop in Targoviste along the way. Targoviste is where the evil dictator Nicolae CeauÅŸescu was captured while trying to escape a coop. Nicolae CeauÅŸescu was the leader of Romania from 1965 until December 1989, when a revolution and coup removed him from power. The self-called revolutionaries' representatives held a two-hour trial and sentenced him to death for crimes against the state, genocide, and "undermining the national economy. Realizing he was in trouble, CeauÅŸescu and his wife fled by helicopter. The pilot realizing that he was abetting a criminal, said the helicopter had mechanical problems and set it down in Targoviste, where CeauÅŸescu was captured and imprisoned. He was eventually sentenced to death and hanged.



We then moved on to Brasov. I have some amazing pictures of the baroque arcitecture in the main square of town. We also visted the large Black Church (nameed after a fire that destroyed the church several centuries ago) and the Greek Orthodox St. Nicholas church. Brasnov is where the uprising against the dictator started in 1987. While the group went shopping, I climbed up the steep hill to the Citadel overlooking the town and took some panoramic shots of the town from high above.












After touring Brasov, I went with the group for lunch. Then it started to rain and rain as we headed back one hour back to Sinaia. When we got back we went to Peles Palace, by far the most interesting and beautiful castle I have ever seen as far as the inside is concerned. See yesterday for pictures of Peles Castle when the weather was far nicer. The outside was right up there as well. Unfortunately, the rain never let up and it continues to rain as I sit here. Vicki and Vicky are back at the hotel watching TV or something.

We head back to Bucharest for a few days tomorrow morning.
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Day 15 - May 11, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Drive 2 Hours from Sinaia to Bucharest



Itinerary: Drive 2 hours from Sinaia back to Bucharest. Upon arriving in Bucharest, you'll explore the city by motorcoach. This is an old city that has served as the capital of Wallachia and later Romania since 1659. Today, it is noted for its broad, tree-lined boulevards, well-kept parks, and mix of architectural styles that combine neoclassical, 19th-century structures with monumental 20th-century edifices (the latter built for the most part to satisfy the late dictator Nicolae Ceausescu). The capital is often referred to as "the Little Paris" because of the wide boulevards. You'll view the Arc de Triomphe commemorating the exploits of World War I soldiers, drive along Victory Avenue, to Revolution Square, where recent events in history are inscribed. You have some time in late afternoon to settle in and relax at the hotel before dinner.

Daily Journal

Today was the worst weather day yet. It was dark and gloomy. In the morning, we left Sinaia for the two hour ride back to Bucharest. Along the way, we stopped at a Canadian/American cemetary along the roadside. The US soldiers were disinterred a number of years ago and moved back to the US.


When it arrived in Bucharest, it was pouring rain, so the bus tour of the city was dismal and no one really wanted to get off the bus to take pictures. We stopped at a military memorial and the massive Parliament building for pictures, but most people just stood in the doorway of the bus to snap their pictures. We later went to visit the Old Court Church, but skipped the ruins of Vlad Tepes’ former palace (one of three he used) because of the rain. The tour guide Christian said, “Oh, it’s just a bunch of ruins. Nothing important!” Of course it was on my list of things to see while on my own.

After the tour, we went back to the hotel to check in. The rain let up by then, so I grabbed my camera and went on a 10-mile walking tour of the city, virtually retracing the bus tour we took earlier. I ended up with a bunch of nice pictures. Just past the hotel was the American Embassy. I tried to take a picture but the guard screamed at me from across the street, so I didn’t get one. I visited the Romanian Arc de Triomphe, Piata Victory, Actenuel Roman concert hall, Piato Romana, Piata Revolution, Piata University, the Military Headquarters. I eventually got back to the massive Parliament building and got some nice pictures. This is the place where the megalomaniac dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife fled by helicopter after a popular uprising led by the army brought the regime down. The pilot realizing he was abetting a tyrannt, said the helicopter had engine troubles and set it down in Targoviste, where Ceausescu and his wife were arrested, eventually tried and executed by firing squad. The man was so corrupt he spent millions on shrines to himself while the people starved to death. At one point, food shortages were so acute people would stand in line not knowing what they were standing in line for. Sometimes for hours and eventually being sent home later with nothing after waiting for hours. Meanwhile, his wife, who was the second highest ranking member of the Communist Party, and who claimed to be a doctor, built medical facilities to carry out research. It was later discovered she had only a 4th grade education.
After the parliament, I found my way back to the Old Court Church, the ruins of Vlad Tepes palace, and Manuc’s Inn. I also found this beautiful redbrick church on a sidestreet nearby that was small with faded frescoes. Eventually, I hike over to Piata Unity, caught the subway and tram back to the hotel, where we had dinner.










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Day 16 - May 12, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Bucharest/Optional Caldarusani Monastery

Day 16 - Bucharest/Optional Caldarusani Monastery

Activities: Enjoy a day exploring Bucharest independently. Your Program Director will assist you in making your own plans. Come with us on an optional visit to the 17th-century Caldarusani Monastery where some two dozen monks still work and live. The monastery is located on the banks of Caldarusani Lake surrounded by a forest of oaks, poplars, and willows. Many of the structures here were built between 1637 and 1638. The church, built in 100 days, was constructed from river boulders. The famous Romanian artist Nicolae Grigorescu attended school here, and the monastery now hosts a museum collection of art objects, icons, and paintings by Grigorescu. You enjoy lunch in the abbot’s house with one of the monks, a visit to the orthodox church, a stop at the treasury room, and some time to browse the monastery shop. This evening we have a Farewell Drink with our traveling group to celebrate the conclusion of our journey, and then we dine at a local restaurant.

Daily Journal

Vicky and Vicki spent the day with some American missionaries they know from states living in Romania.


I took the optional trip to Caldarusani Monastery. It is outside Bucharest and led by Father Laurence and a number of monks who live there. Along the way we saw a number of gypsy horse carts overloaded with junk they collected. Amazing. The church was awesome and we spent a lot of time in there listening to Father Laurence talk about it’s history. We then went across the courtyard to the museum which houses all the church and alter decorations from over the centuries. Then we went to the dining hall for lunch where all 25 of us sat around this long, long table while the monks served us lunch. Afterwards, I took a stroll down the driveway to the perimeter of the grounds to take some pictures of the area. The weather was lovely.






We went back to the hotel for cocktails at 6, followed by dinner at this private club close to the hotel where we had a fine dinner and were serenaded by musicians.

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Day 17 - May 13, 2006 - Eastern Europe to the Black Sea - Return from Bucharest to the US

Day 17 - Flight Home

After breakfast, you’ll be transferred to the airport for your flight home.

Well, I'm home. I had a 3:50 am wake up call with a 5:00 am departure for the Bucharest airport. We left on time at 7:30 am for the 2-hour flight to Munich. We then endured a 2 hr 45 min layover in Munich, then boarded our flight for an 11:15 am departure for Chicago. Once again, I was in the very last row of the plane, which is funny because our group commandeered the back of the bus for the entire vacation. So it was only fitting that we ride in the back of the plane for the trip home. I popped some Valium for the 9 hour flight from Munich to Chicago, so slept almost all the way home. Lucky me.

I arrived home at O'Hare on time, said goodbye to Vicky and Vicki, then headed over to Terminal 2 to catch my flight to Milwaukee. That too left and arrived on time so I was home by 4:15 pm. Being the cheapskate that I am, I took the city bus home from the airport because it arrived the moment I set foot out of the terminal in Milwaukee. So I saved myself $30, which was a reasonable trade off since the walk from the bus stop was 5 blocks with my suitcase in tow, compared to curbside service with a cab.

I promptly unpacked, got all my laundry washed, read all my mail and downloaded my pictures from the trip. While this sounds masochistic, I have to work on Monday and if I don't do this stuff now, it will languish till next weekend.

I was all set to go out tonight, but I decided to lay down and watch TV around 7 pm. I fell asleep and when I woke up, it was 10:45 pm. Too late to go out. So I popped the rest of my Valium and passed out until 7 am Sunday morning. I'm at the office now where I just burned 10 CDs of pictures from the trip for my fellow travelers. I'm about to leave for the post office, get a haircut then heading to Flannery's for dinner.

Sounds like life is already returning to normal. Guess I'll just have to look forward to my next vacation.
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