Going into this trip, I knew South Africa, Swaziland and Zimbabwe would be spectacular, and I was not disappointed. I spent about two weeks there during November and December 2014 visiting the major cities, going on several wild game drives and learning about the region's unique history and culture. I experienced interesting sights, amazing scenery, decent weather, friendly people, great food, and comfortable accommodations.
How Long Was Your Trip? When Did You Go? Where Did You Go? My trip took place from November 20 to December 4, 2014--a total of 15 days. Due to the early morning flight from New York to Cape Town, I arrived the day before in New York and spent the night there.
The daily breakdown of the trip was:
3 days traveling back and forth from my home in Milwaukee
3-1/2 days visiting Cape Town and environs
1 day traveling from Cape Town to Durban, with a visit to the St. Lucia Estuary
1 day in Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Game Reserve
2 days in the country of Swaziland and nearby Kruger National Park in South Africa
2 days traveling to and staying in Johannesburg
2-1/2 days in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company? I traveled with Gate1 Travel, the same company I used for six other trips.
I thought the itinerary hit all the major stops and was nicely paced. Our tour director, Roger Harding, was a native South African and walking encyclopedia. He expertly guided us from country to country.
Our Tour Director, Roger Harding from South Africa
My tour group had 32 people. Most came from various parts of the US. Four came from Canada and two came from Australia. We were a very seasoned group of travelers and we got along well. Of all the tours I have taken, I must say this was the best group I have traveled with.
Tour Group at Farewell Dinner in Johannesburg
The tour group also included my travel friend Joe from Denver. We first crossed paths at a tourist office in Berlin, Germany in 1995. He also traveled with me on two previous occasions.
While most tour operators offer a roommate-finder service for single travelers who want to avoid the evil "single supplement," it’s always nicer to travel with someone you know.
How Did You Get There and Back? All in all, I traveled more than 21,750 miles by plane and motor coach over the 15-day trip. The flight from JFK to Cape Town via Johannesburg was 8,749 miles and 16 hours. After a few days in Cape Town, we flew two hours to Durban on the east coast, followed by a motor coach tour of about 850 miles back to Johannesburg by way of Hluhluwe, Mbabane, Hazyview, and Kruger Park. The flight back to New York and Milwaukee was the same route, except that we stopped 8 hours into the flight in the West African city of Dakar, Senegal for refueling. After the one-hour refueling stop, we flew another 8 hours to New York City.
Air Travel Map to and from Southern Africa
Ground Travel Map in Southern Africa
Where Did You Stay? We stayed in a number of 4-star hotels. Most were close to the center of town. They were modern, clean and comfortable. Each morning, they provided an excellent American and Continental breakfast buffet. When we had group dinners at the hotel, we feasted on a bountiful buffet of western and local delicacies. They also delivered morning wake-up calls each day, either by telephone or a loud knock on the door, often between 5 and 6 am. Tours are definitely not for people who like to sleep late.
The only problems at the hotels were with electrical outlets and Internet service.
I had hoped to get by with just a European 2-prong adapter, but there was often only one such outlet in the room in South Africa. So we were always competing for outlets. I borrowed a standard South Africa 3-prong (round prongs) adapter from the front desk at the first hotel and hung onto it until the end of the trip. The hotel in Zimbabwe was a blessing in comparison since it had multiple European-style outlets and several USB charging ports.
Plug Your Adapter Needs to Fit
Internet service in the South Africa hotels was sometimes available in the room and sometimes in the lobby only. Our guide described the service as "complimentary," which meant "slow." When connectivity was possible, it was very difficult to upload pictures. Internet service was best used for sending text-only messages. This was frustrating at times because I wanted to share my experience on Facebook in real-time because I was having such a wonderful time. Once again, the Zimbabwe hotel had no connectivity issues.
The Various First-Class Hotels We Stayed In
What Was the Food Like? We found pretty much any type of food we wanted. However, outside the hotel, we ate the local fare whenever possible. Local fare included kudu, impala, crocodile, ostrich, ox and warthog. One day we were viewing these animals on a game drive, the next we were eating them, I developed an appreciation for the local beers and wines too.
One Never Goes Hungry on a Tour - Buffet Dinner at Hotel
Some Exotic Dinner Fare - Ostrich, Warthog, Kudu & Croc - Mmmm!
How Were the People? The locals were extremely friendly and overjoyed to see us. We had no problems whatsoever. They all spoke English. Some even spoke the Dutch dialect, Afrikaans, which is very close to the Flemish I spoke while living in Belgium several years ago. It was easy to understand and I got some Dutch practice.
Friendly Welcome to Gugulethu Township Outside Cape Town
Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Yes, because we were situated either in the heart of town within walking distance to everything, or shuttled by motor coach to our destinations. It would be challenging for an outsider to navigate South Africa and Zimbabwe on his or her own. There are taxis of course, but the cheaper and most popular public transportation option consists of cramped, 8-person mini-vans that require a sophisticated system of hand signals to communicate with the driver. There are a limited number of buses and trains in the larger cities, but the system was not really designed with the tourist in mind.
Our Comfortable Motor Coach
What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like? The only foreign currency we dealt with was the South African Rand. We used it in both South Africa and the Swaziland. Zimbabwe has a worthless currency and uses the US Dollar. When we needed cash, there were ATMs everywhere.
South Africa was a bargain as far as prices were concerned (11 Rand = $1 US). Zimbabwe prices were on par with your average American city. If renting a car, plan on spending at least $4.75 per gallon for gas.
South African Rand Notes
What Did This Whole Trip Cost You? This was the most expensive trip I've taken--$5,900 in total, or about $400 per day. It was money well spent and an excellent travel value.
The upfront cost of the trip was $4,300, which included trip insurance, round trip airfare from New York, lodging, several meals, ground transportation and sightseeing.
I spent another $400 on flights, lodging and meals to get to New York City from Milwaukee the day before the flight to Africa. The New York-to-Johannesburg flight departed too early in the morning to avoid an overnight stay in New York City.
I spent another $600 on optional tours and another $600 on the ground in Africa, consisting of meals, a Zimbabwe visa, souvenirs and tips.
I spent a lot more on tips on this tour than other tours. We had many more local guides than usual thanks to local laws prohibiting our tour guide from guiding. The people who ran the optional tours were also tipped heavily. Of course, it was worth it since they were often the only line of defense between me and the wild animals.
How was the Weather? Nice, just like summer. We traveled in late spring, early summer. Our destinations were situated roughly between a subtropical 17 and 33 degrees south latitude (roughly Atlanta and Guatemala weather in the north latitudes).
The days were hot, 75-90 F, and the nights cool, 55-60 F. Most days were sunny. Some were cloudy. It rained one day, but it didn't matter since it was a travel day.
Because of the temperature range, I had to bring a wide variety of clothing like long pants, long-sleeve shirts, sweatshirts, rain gear, shorts and t-shirts. I also packed a hat, sun screen and insect repellent. Note that long khaki pants, long-sleeved shirts, and closed-toe shoes, and no red clothing are advised for game drives even when temperatures are oppressive. Safety first I guess.
If you have binoculars and a telephoto camera lens, bring them since the animals in the game reserves aren't always close enough to see as well as you would like to see them.
Any Parting Comments? Yes. Travel is an adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never come back the same person.
Following is a day-by-day account of my trip. Each day starts with an overview of what we did, followed by my daily journal. You can just read on or go back to the Table of Contents above and jump to a specific day or topic of interest.
Itinerary: Departed the USA on an overnight flight to Cape Town, South Africa via Johannesburg.
About South Africa from LonelyPlanet
Every country in the world displays some diversity, but South Africa, stretching from the hippos in the Limpopo River to the penguins waddling on the Cape, takes some beating. It befits its position at the southern end of the world’s most epic continent, with more types of terrain than photographers can shake their zoom lens at. There’s the deserted Kalahari, Namakwa’s springtime symphony of wildflowers, iconic Table Mountain and Cape Point, Kruger National Park’s wildlife-stalked savannah and, running through the east of the country and into Lesotho, the Drakensberg. KwaZulu-Natal’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park alone has five distinct ecosystems, attracting both zebras and dolphins.
Daily Journal
Weather: 36F and partly cloudy in New York City
Flying into New York City the Day Before Departure for Africa
I awoke at 6 am, showered, had complimentary breakfast at the hotel, and took the hotel's 7:30 am shuttle to JFK.
Our South African Airways Airbus 340-300 departed on time around 10:45 am EST for the 15-hour direct flight to Johannesburg. I was surprised by the generous leg room and how far my seat tilted back. Meals were above average, and the pilots and cabin crew were exceptionally courteous. It made me think about how far service has sunk on US airlines.
The Airbus 340-300 We Flew to Johannesburg
Ready for the 15-Hour Flight - JFK to Johannesburg
After dinner, I settled into a nice, long nap. Our destination was 7 hours ahead of New York, so I needed as much sleep as possible to avoid jet lag the next day in Cape Town. I managed to sleep for about five hours.
When I awoke about 8 hours into the flight, I noticed on the monitor in front of me that we had crossed the Atlantic and were somewhere close to the coast of West Africa, the area hardest hit by this year's Ebola outbreak. I marveled at the size of the African continent because we were over the west coast, but still had 8 hours to go before arrival in Johannesburg. I walked through the darkened cabin to the galley in the back where I managed to get a sandwich, chips and some water before returning to my seat and watching a little bit of the movie "North by Northwest. I then tried to rest some more before landing in 6 hours.
11 Hours Down, 4 to Go - Very Big Continent
I didn't realize until we got off the plane in Johannesburg that several members of my travel group were seated in front of us. In the old days, the tour company sent out bright orange luggage tags in advance, making fellow tour members easy to meet before departure.
Itinerary: Arrived in Cape Town and transferred to hotel. Visited Victoria & Albert Waterfront near hotel. About Cape Town from LonelyPlanet
The Mother City, home to soaring Table Mountain, golden beaches and bountiful vineyards, is an old pro at capturing people’s hearts. Mother Nature surpassed herself when crafting the Mother City. Whether jogging along Sea Point Promenade, climbing up Lion’s Head in the dawn light, clambering over giant boulders at Sandy Bay, or driving the amazing coastal roads down to Cape Point, one never fails to feel spirits soar while taking in the breathtakingly beautiful vistas. Table Mountain National Park defines the city. The flat-topped mountain is the headline act, but there are many other equally gorgeous natural landscapes within the park’s extensive boundaries. Cultivated areas, such as the historic Company’s Gardens, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and Green Point Park, also make exploring the city a pleasure. Christian, Muslim, Jewish, Hindu and traditional African beliefs coexist in this proudly multicultural city. Given South Africa’s troubled history, such harmony has been hard won and remains fragile: practically everyone has a fascinating, sometimes heartbreaking story to tell. It’s a city of determined pioneers – from the Afrikaner descendants of the original Dutch colonists and the majority colored community to the descendants of European Jewish immigrants and more recent Xhosa migrants from the Eastern Cape. The World Design Capital 2014 is in the process of using innovative design to transform the city. It’s already one good-looking metropolis, from the brightly painted facades of the Bo-Kaap and the bathing chalets of Muizenberg to the Afro-chic decor of its restaurants and bars, and the striking street art and innovation incubators of The Fringe and Woodstock. The shack communities of the Cape Flats are a sobering counterpoint, but even in these deprived suburbs there are enterprising projects that put food from organic market gardens on tables, or stock gift shops with attractive souvenirs. Wrenching yourself away from the magnetic mountain and all the delights of the Cape Peninsula is a challenge, but within an hour you can exchange urban landscapes for the charming towns, villages and bucolic estates of Winelands destinations such as Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Hermanus is a prime whale-watching location and also a base from which to organize shark-cave diving. Further afield, the delights of the Garden Route unfold with more inspiring scenery to be viewed on thrilling drives down the coast and over mountain passes.
Daily Journal
Weather: 75F and sunny
We arrived in Johannesburg a little behind schedule at 8:15 am. This was after flying 15 hours and 8,100 miles across the equator and seven time zones.
We collected our bags, cleared South African customs, and checked into our domestic flight to Cape Town. This was an arduous task since the Johannesburg airport was a chaotic mess, complete with poor signage and indifferent staff. After getting lost a few times, we managed to get checked in and down to the gate for our domestic flight to Cape Town.
Fortunately, our South African Airways flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town departed on time at 10:00 am Central African time. We arrived on time a little after noon in Cape Town. Around 19 members from our group arrived at the same time.
We collected our bags and met our tour director, Roger Harding, and our Cape Town coach driver, Yusef, in the arrival hall outside baggage claim. Unfortunately, one member of our group didn't have the required two blank pages in her passport for South African customs, so was held up in New York and arrived the following day. I chuckled because the tour company sent no less than 10 emails reminding us to make sure we had enough blank pages in our passports before departure.
Flying Over Cape Town
The Ubiquitous Shanty Towns Seen Coming into Cape Town
Finally Arrived in Cape Town!
We arrived at our supremely-located, first class hotel in the Waterfront District of Cape Town around 1:30 pm.
First Glimpse of Table Mountain, Cape Town's Famous Landmark
Protea Hotel Victoria Junction Near the Waterfront
After freshening up, we walked over to nearby Victoria & Albert Waterfront to relax and shop. The Waterfront is a colorful and busy collection of shops and restaurants set against the backdrop of Table Mountain. It is well worth a visit. We ran into several members of our group during the afternoon. Several returned for dinner in the evening.
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Yours Truly - Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Travel Friend Joe - Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Four South Africa Icons - Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
Typical Souvenirs - Victoria & Albert Waterfront in Cape Town
We returned to the hotel in the late afternoon, then strolled the neighborhood to do some grocery shopping, and find a place to sit down for a local beer and people watching. We found a lively bar a few blocks from the hotel and enjoyed a few beers while making friendly chat with the staff and customers.
Fun Corner Cafe Near the Hotel in Cape Town
A few hours later, we went back to the hotel to eat and trade shorts and t-shirts for warmer evening clothes. We went back to the earlier cafe and lost all track of time, getting back to the hotel at 11:30 pm. Getting plenty of sleep on the plane the night before worked its anticipated magic.
Itinerary: Drove round trip from Cape Town to the southern tip of the African continent. En route, we passed steep mountains, secluded coves, and sweeping beaches. Made stops at Hout Bay, Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Cape of Good Hope, and Cape Point. Followed the eastern coastline north along False Bay, and returned to Cape Town by way of Simon's Town, where we visited the penguin colonies at Boulders Beach, and the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. Weather: 75F and sunny
After getting home at 11:30 pm last night, I slept straight through the night. This was very rare given the 8-hour time difference from Milwaukee and the long flight over from the US. Sleeping as much on the way over really paid off.
We enjoyed a terrific breakfast buffet at the hotel, attended a meet-and-greet with our fellow tour group members, then departed on a full-day tour of the Cape Peninsula.
Pretty Much the Daily Routine
The tour made a very scenic counterclockwise drive south along the coastline from Cape Town. We drove through a number of quaint seaside resort towns while marveling at the incredibly blue water crashing on the shores. Along the way, we had the flora and fauna explained to us and made a number of photo stops.
The Cape Peninsula Tour Route in Red
Along the West Coast of Africa South of Cape Town
Along the West Coast of Africa South of Cape Town
Along the West Coast of Africa South of Cape Town
Part of the 12 Apostles Range South of Cape Town
Hout Bay
Hout Bay
Hout Bay
Beach Near Hout Bay - No Shark Warnings Today
Beach Near Hout Bay - No Shark Warnings Today
Eventually we reached the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. The reserve spans the entire southern tip of the peninsula, culminating with the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern most point of the African continent. We saw a variety of native birds and flowers and a number of indigenous baboons and ostriches. The baboons can be very mischievous and aggressive, so we needed to be cautious.
Native Ostrich Farm - Cape of Good Hope Reserve
Very Dangerous Creatures - Cape of Good Hope Reserve
Baboon Troop - Cape of Good Hope Reserve
We stopped at the Cape of Good Hope for photos.
Cape of Good Hope - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape of Good Hope - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape of Good Hope - Southern Tip of the African Continent - Lots of Birds
Cape of Good Hope - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape of Good Hope - Southern Tip of the African Continent
We then continued a short distance east to Cape Point Lighthouse where we scaled steeps steps for a breathtaking view of the Atlantic Ocean. There's a funicular for those who don't want to hike the steps, but I needed the exercise after eating and sitting too much over the previous two days.
Cape Point Lighthouse - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape Point Lighthouse - Funicular or Stairs?
Cape Point Lighthouse - Stair Option
Cape Point Lighthouse - Joe Trying Not to Break a Sweat - It's Hot!
Cape Point Lighthouse - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape Point Lighthouse - Southern Tip of the African Continent
Cape Point Lighthouse - Southern Tip of the African Continent
After the lighthouse, we continued up the eastern side of the cape to Simon's Town. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Seaforth, then walked next door to The Boulders to see the African penguin colony that took up refuge there in 1982. Despite attempts to relocate the penguins, they have stubbornly held their ground and virtually carpet the beach. On our way out, we stopped at a nearby crafts market where I almost had my pocket picked by a small girl who was part of a dance group entertaining tourists. It pays to stay alert in crowds.
The Boulders in Simon's Town - Penguins and Crafts
The Boulder's Beach in Simon's Town
The Boulders in Simon's Town - False Bay by the Penguins
The Boulders in Simon's Town - African Penguins
The Boulders in Simon's Town - African Penguins
The Boulders in Simon's Town - Another Typical Craft Market
The Boulders in Simon's Town - Another Typical Craft Market
The Boulders in Simon's Town - Another Typical Craft Market
After The Boulders, we drove north to the south side of Cape Town to visit Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We strolled the gardens and soaked up the sounds, colors and aromas of the natural environment.
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town - MARIJUANA!
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - Cape Town
In the evening, we had a group dinner at the hotel featuring a nice buffet. It was a good chance to get better acquainted with other tour group members. Following dinner, I took a short walk down the street from the hotel, then went to bed at 9:30 pm. It had been a long day and I fell asleep the moment my head hit the pillow.
Itinerary: In the morning, enjoyed a Cape Town city and Table Mountain tour. At Table Mountain, ascended to the top by cable car. At the summit, saw wild flowers and the famous silver tree, and marveled at a birds-eye view of the city and its beaches. Saw Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned and Cape Point. Descended from the Upper Cableway Station and proceeded to the Milnerton Lighthouse. The city tour included famous landmarks such as the Castle of Good Hope, built in 1666 by the Dutch East India Company, City Hall, a splendid baroque building, and the Grand Parade. Also saw St. George's Cathedral, the Anglican Diocese of Nobel Peace Laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu, the Company Gardens and the Malay Quarter (Bo-Kaap) before returning to the hotel. In the afternoon, enjoyed a Cape Town Cultural Diversity Tour. This multi-cultural tour of Cape Town provided opportunities to experience face-to-face interactions with the City's many different communities. We were welcomed in the townships of Langa, the oldest formal township, and Gugulethu, meaning "our pride," which was established as a result of the migrant labor system. These locations illustrated not only the struggles still facing parts of the country and the bitter legacy of apartheid, but also showed the great strides that have been made since Nelson Mandela was released from prison. Weather: 70F and partly sunny
I slept straight through the night again so jet lag will apparently not plague me on this trip.
Once again, the day started with the awesome breakfast buffet.
After breakfast, we headed off earlier than most tour groups for the Cape Town tour. That's because the weather forecast was calling for inclement weather in mid-morning and we wanted to get to Table Mountain before the clouds and wind enveloped the mountain and made a visit impossible. The mountain and cable car had been closed for two weeks prior to our visit due to clouds and high winds.
Model of Table Mountain
When we arrived at Table Mountain, the top was shrouded in dark clouds but the cable car was still operating. The cable car took a few minutes to reach the top and had a rotating floor so that everyone got a good photo opportunity on the way up.
Table Mountain Covered in Clouds
View of Table Mountain from the Cable Car
Cable Car to Top of Table Mountain
Once we reached the top of Table Mountain, we spent an hour walking the numerous pathways and admiring what we could see Besides seeing the city and surrounding mountains, we saw South African badgers (dassies) clinging to the cliffs, as well as other flora and fauna.
Views from Table Mountain
Views from Table Mountain - 12 Apostle Mountains
Views from Table Mountain - Cloudy View of Cape Town
Views from Table Mountain
Views from Table Mountain
Views from Table Mountain - Badgers (Dassies)
Views from Table Mountain - Joe with Cape Town Below
Views from Table Mountain - Yours Truly with Cape Town Below
Views from Table Mountain - Cable Car Looks Scary
Following the visit to Table Mountain, we toured the city of Cape Town. We drove through the central business district to the Malay Quarter known as Bo-Kaap. It's where Cape Town's muslim community resides. The streets were lined with brightly painted homes, which I found quite appealing.
Bo-Kaap District in Downtown Cape Town
Bo-Kaap District in Downtown Cape Town
Bo-Kaap District in Downtown Cape Town
Bo-Kaap District in Downtown Cape Town
After Bo-Kaap, we drove through downtown to the central district, home to government offices and a lovely park.
Government Buildings and Park in Cape Town
Government Buildings and Park in Cape Town
On the way back to the hotel, we dropped several tour group members off at the Waterfront. We went back to the hotel and down the street to the grocery store to stock up on water, snacks and lunch, which we ate in the hotel dining area.
At 1:30 pm, a small group of us departed for the optional "Culture Diversity Tour," which I dubbed the "Purell Tour" and the "Cultural Adversity Tour." It ended up being one of the most interesting and authentic travel experiences I have ever had. It was not for the faint of heart since we visited two townships on the outskirts of Cape Town, which could best be described as recovering slums.
The townships are where the black populations were resettled during Apartheid. We got an up close and personal glimpse into life in a township. I can guarantee that 99.99% of tourists never experience this during their visit to Cape Town. It was a complete assault on the senses, both good and bad, but well worth it. Our guide, Shai, lived in the second township we visited.
While conditions are poor, there is much hope in the townships that hard work and community support will one day lead to success and prosperity. I can't stress enough how friendly the people were and how welcome we felt at all the stops we made.
We wound our way from the center to the outskirts of Cape Town, noting the former site of District 6, a former black enclave where residents were forcibly removed in 1966 and where everything was leveled except schools. The area is currently being rebuilt and repatriated to undo some of the damage caused by Apartheid. We also passed the hospital where Christiaan Barnard performed the world's first heart transplant in 1967.
Our first stop was Langa Township. Langa was an unplanned village. It is comprised largely of corrugated metal shops and homes made from old shipping containers that were given to people by the government.
Langa Township Outside Cape Town
Langa Township Outside Cape Town
We stopped by the local community center to see the ceramics and other art the locals learn how to make to support themselves.
Community Center in Langa Township
We then drove through a maze of streets lined with metal homes and shops to a hostel building for migrant workers. Each hostel had 8-9 rooms housing several families amounting to scores of people. We visited one hostel housing 70 people in 6 rooms. We stopped by one bedroom shared by 3 families (11 people) that contained all their worldly belongings. The occupant of the room was cooking potatoes and lamb in pot in an electric kettle on top of a dorm-sized refrigerator for everyone in the hostel to eat. There was one bed per family. The adults took turns sleeping in their beds and children slept on the floor or in the community room. I can definitely say that my college dorm room was bigger than this room. The only bathroom in the hostel was down the hallway on the other end of the living quarters. We were told that hostel dwellers have learned to adapt to their situations and make the best use of limited space, living with just the bare necessities. The hostel's doors are locked at 9 pm, and you can only get in after that time if you have a night job.
Hostel for Migrant Workers in Langa Township
Room in Hostel in Langa Township - Three Families Live Here
Migrant Worker's Hostel in Langa Township
Resident at Hostel in Langa Township - My New Friend
After the hostel, we visited the shop of a Sangoma, or traditional healer. He is the guy a mother goes to when her daughter can't seem to find a husband. The healer gives the mother something to sprinkle on a male suitor's food to make her daughter more attractive.
If I had known what I was in for, I would have stayed outside the sangoma's den. Besides being very dark inside, there were various animal hides and appendages hanging from the ceiling. The smell was atrocious and I had to keep shooing the flies away from me as members of my tour group and I sat face-to-face on benches on each side of the shack while the sangoma explained what he did. The light that did manage to pierce the darkness lit up the sangoma's made up face like an eerie ghost. As I sat with my head down gasping for air, I couldn't help but make eye contact with Ellen from my group. We both had the "what the hell am I doing here" look on our faces. We took advantage of the first moment of silence to go back outside.
Traditional Healer's Shop - Langa Township - Come on In! We're Open!
Traditional Healer's Shop - Langa Township - Awful Smells
After visiting the traditional healer, we were lured to a nearby church by the sound of singing coming from within. When we went in, the congregation was on its feet at the front of the church singing hymns. It was hypnotic and beautiful.
Christian Mass - Langa Township
VIDEO: Christian Mass - Langa Township
Langa Township in Cape Town
Langa Township in Cape Town
Langa Township in Cape Town
Langa Township in Cape Town
We then made our way to nearby Gugulethu Township. Our guide lived there and was familiar with everyone. The bus could not navigate the narrow streets, so our driver dropped us off a few blocks from where we wanted to go. As we walked down the street, we were greeted by friendly people.
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town - Welcoming Committee
As we turned down one dirt alley, we were confronted by a large crowd of revelers who had just emerged from a circumcision ceremony for an 18-year-old man. It is cause for celebration since it mark the man's entrance to adulthood. One woman in our group joined the boisterous crowd in dance and became an instant celebrity. To prepare for the circumcision, the boy (and the rest of the town) consume large quantities of a locally-made, corn-based beer known as "umqombothi."
Gugulethu Township - Circumcision Ceremony Spills into Alley
We wandered down the dirt alley and beneath clothes lines to a "tavern" where this beer is made for our own private tasting. A rather large and intoxicated woman and local man came in to explain the beer-making process.
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town
The beer tasting started with the woman pouring water from a blue, 30-gallon jug filled from the local well into a smaller, dirty plastic communal bucket. She then removed impurities from the bucket by stirring the water with a rancid stick, and poured the water out. She then filled the bucket with beer, dropped to her knees, and loudly uttered some litany like a preacher in a traveling salvation show. She then raised the communal bucket to her lips and took several gulps as I chanted "chug, chug, chug." After that we took turns smelling and drinking beer from the communal bucket. It tasted like smoky water, which made sense since the beer was brewed over an open wood fire.
Beer Tasting - Gugulethu Township - The Communal Bucket
Beer Tasting - Gugulethu Township - Local Man Taking (Another) Sip!
Gugulethu Township in Cape Town - Our Guide & Friends
Following the beer tasting, we went back to our hotel. For dinner, we went back to yesterday's lively cafe. Then it was back to the hotel and the comfortable bed that awaited this weary traveler.
Itinerary: Full-day tour of the wine producing region east of Cape Town, with stops at three wine estates in Paarl, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch.
About the Cape Winelands from Cape Town Travel
Breathtaking natural scenery, longstanding cultural heritage and world-class wine-producing estates characterize the Cape Winelands region, a tourist mecca that always ranks highly on visitors’ itineraries. A 45-minute drive from Cape Town whisks visitors to the winelands enclave, where surrounding mountains form a majestic backdrop to rows of neatly staked vineyards and gabled Cape Dutch homesteads. Experience the memorable hospitality and beauty of the winelands towns of Paarl, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. There are many wineries along the route, some large and others boutique. The outstanding wines produced in this area are world-renowned.
Daily Journal
Weather: 80F and sunny
I tossed and turned much of the night, but since we had a later starting time today, I was able to sleep in a little later.
It was a free day to do as we pleased in Cape Town, so we opted for the popular Winelands Tour, which took us to three outstanding wine estates in the heart of wine country just east of Cape Town. Taking a winery tour is a must-do in South Africa.
Winelands Tour Route from Cape Town
Wineries Abound in Winelands Country
At each estate, we sampled the world-class white, red and sweet wines in centuries-old surroundings against a backdrop of thriving vineyards and towering mountain peaks. The weather was also superb for a day in the countryside.
Around 10:30 am, we made our first stop at the Fairview Wine & Cheese Estate near Paarl. We learned how to taste wine like a pro before sampling a half dozen wines and cheeses made at the estate.
Winelands Tour - Fairview Wine & Cheese
Winelands Tour - Fairview Wine & Cheese
Winelands Tour - Fairview Wine & Cheese
Winelands Tour - Fairview Wine & Cheese
Fairview Wine & Cheese - Sampling Card
Fairview Wine & Cheese - Joe's a Connoisseur Now
Around noon, we made our second stop at the Boschendal Winery near Franschhoek The tasting was held outside under the trees. It was a lovely setting. We sampled another half dozen wines before strolling the grounds to admire the traditional Dutch H- and I-styled buildings on the property.
Winelands Tour - Boschendal Winery
Winelands Tour - Boschendal Winery
Winelands Tour - Boschendal Winery
Winelands Tour - Boschendal Winery
Winelands Tour - Boschendal Winery
In between the second and third wineries, we stopped in the town of Stellenbosch for lunch. We had a light snack and took a leisurely stroll through town. All of the buildings were Dutch or British style, reflecting the early settlers to the area.
Winelands Tour - Lunch Stop in Stellenbosch
Winelands Tour - Lunch Stop in Stellenbosch
Winelands Tour - Lunch Stop in Stellenbosch
Around 3 pm, we stopped at a third winery called Simonsig Wine Estate outside Stellenbosch. Like the other wineries, it was a beautiful estate surrounded by vineyards and towering mountains. We sampled a few more wines before boarding our bus and heading back to Cape Town.
Winelands Tour - Simonsig Wine Estate
For dinner, we ate at the nearby Beluga restaurant where we opted for a more exotic dinner consisting of ostrich, springbok and vegetarian dishes. The restaurant was excellent and being able to sit outside was a big plus.
After dinner, we returned to the hotel, where we spent an hour packing our suitcases and preparing for the flight to Durban the following morning.
Itinerary: Morning flight to Durban. Drove to St. Lucia and enjoyed a cruise on the St. Lucia Estuary. The tidal estuary is home to Nile crocodiles, hippopotami, sea turtles, and even sharks, making it a fascinating and uniquely diverse ecosystem. About St. Lucia Estuary from KZNWildlife
St. Lucia Estuary is one of the tourism focal points of the Simangaliso Wetland Park, a recently declared World Heritage Site. The Park comprises a number of conservation areas, the oldest of which is the St. Lucia Game Reserve, established in 1895. The region contains the highest vegetated dunes in the world, extensive and diverse wetland systems, as well as coastal grasslands with an associated fauna which includes the Africa's highest density of common reedbuck. The estuary, and nearby 96,039-acre lake dotted with islands, supports an abundance of wildlife, including Nile crocodiles, hippos, rhinos, elephants, buffaloes, and giraffes, as well as a host of water birds, including pelican, flamingos, herons, fish eagles, kingfishers, geese, ducks, and storks.
Daily Journal
Weather: 80F and mostly cloudy
I got about 6 hours of uninterrupted sleep after staying up late packing my bags and chatting. The wake up call came 20 minutes early at 5:10 am. By 6 am we were down at breakfast. We were scheduled to leave for the airport at 6:45 am but a couple in our group overslept so we didn't leave till 7:15 am for our 9:15 am flight to Durban. It didn't matter since we got to the airport and checked in with more than an hour to spare.
Our British Air 737-300 flight to Durban took 2 hours. Like the South African Airways plane we flew over here, there was ample legroom, free meals, and no baggage fees. British Air also puts American carriers to shame. There were empty seats around us so both Joe and I moved up a row and had window seats on each side and a row to ourselves.
Cape Town Airport - On Our Way to Durban
Cape Town Airport - On Our Way to Durban
En Route to Durban - Empty Flight
Hello Durban
Upon arrival in Durban, our coach driver, Goodman, met us at the airport. We then went to a shopping mall in Balita to stock up on snacks, and then proceeded a few hours north along the Indian Ocean coast to the St. Lucia Estuary, where we enjoyed an afternoon boat cruise.
Welcome to St. Lucia Estuary
Before the boat ride we had to sign a liability release form containing our names and next of kin. We saw signs warning about hippos, which are very dangerous and kill many people at night when they come out of the water to feed. The paths they travel along are called "hippo highways." When one encounters a hippo, it should be treated like meeting a bear.
Hippos Are Dangerous - Especially at Night - Very Territorial
We boarded our boat around 3:30 pm for a 6-mile ride down the St. Lucia Estuary. Within a minute, we saw a crocodile swimming in the river. Then we saw the nesting area of a yellow bird called a mask weaver, which builds its nest on the stalks of tall grass on the river's edge.
St. Lucia Estuary - Boarding the Boat
St. Lucia Estuary - Male Mask Weaver and Nests
Then we came across the first of three hippo pods. Everyone clamored to the front of the boat for photos. We proceeded down the river and came to a second, larger pod. They grunted a lot and farted up a storm in the river. We were downwind so got a whiff of their malodor too. Along the way we saw more birds like the fish eagle and kingfisher.
St. Lucia Estuary - Hippo Tooth
St. Lucia Estuary - Hippo Tooth - Would Go Right Through Me!
St. Lucia Estuary - The First Hippo Pod - Oh, the Smell!
St. Lucia Estuary - Second Hippo Pod - Grunt, Grunt, Grunt
The third pod of hippos was the largest. One gave us a good look at his teeth when he opened his mouth up wide.
St. Lucia Estuary - Third Hippo Pod
St. Lucia Estuary - Third Hippo Pod
St. Lucia Estuary - Third Hippo Pod - Opening Wide
VIDEO: St. Lucia Estuary - Third Hippo Pod
VIDEO: Hippos at St. Lucia Estuary in South Africa
Farther down the river we saw an antelope called a bushbok dead and floating in the water. Coming up on it was a crocodile. The croc nudged the bloated carcass towards the weeds along the river bank to hide it from other crocs.
St. Lucia Estuary - Croc Hiding Bushbok in the Weeds
St. Lucia Estuary - One of Several Bird Species
St. Lucia Estuary - One of Several Bird Species
After the boat ride, we rejoined our coach driver, who had trucked all our luggage to the hotel while we were on the cruise.
St. Lucia Estuary - The Ladies Pose for a Picture
We got an African massage (drove on a rough dirt road) close to our hotel, which was 15 miles away. The hotel was a nice place out in the countryside off the national highway.
We had a South African beer in the bar before joining others in the group for a buffet dinner in the restaurant. It was our travel mate Isabelle's birthday, so we sang to her on the bus en route to St Lucia and again at dinner.
Dinner at the Hotel in Umfolozi
Then it was back to the room to pack our bags and get to bed because of the very early start again tomorrow.
Itinerary: Traveled to the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve, situated in northern KwaZulu Natal. It contained an immense diversity of fauna and flora, including the "Big Five": elephant, rhino, cape buffalo, lion and leopard. The reserve is particularly famous for its conservation of black and white rhinos. The park also boasts warthog, crocodile, and antelope. Following the safari, continued to the border post of the Kingdom of Swaziland, an independent Kingdom within the borders of South Africa, known for its lovely scenery, fine handicrafts and vibrant indigenous culture.
Daily Journal
Weather: 76F and cloudy, perfect for a game drive
I slept probably 6-1/2 hours after getting to bed around 10 pm last night and getting a 5 am wake up call in preparation for a 6 am departure for the open-jeep game drive at Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. Hluhluwe is pronounced "sha-shoo-wee."
Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Game Reserve is the oldest and best known game park in South Africa. Covering 370 square miles, the park is best visited in winter (June to Septemer) when the animals range widely without congregating at water sources. Summer visits can also be very rewarding, especially in the open savannah country areas. There are a lot of mosquitoes, so come prepared.
Hluhluwe Game Reserve Entrance
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Don't Leave Your Vehicle
Leigh, our guide from Durban, drove us three hours through a mere 1/20 of the reserve. We saw more than most visitors at this time of the year because of overcast skies and cooler temperatures.
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Our Guide Leigh
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Getting a Safety Briefing - Common Sense Stuff
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - I'm Ready, Let's Go!
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Road Leading into Reserve
The animals we saw during the drive included: Guinea fowl, nyala antelope, zebras, black and white rhinos, wildebeests, vervet monkeys, cape buffalo (very dangerous...give no warning before attack), baboons, wild dogs (highly endangered), elephants (Isabelle learned how to tell the difference between a male and female elephant ;-), mask weaver birds, crocodile, bushbok, white vulture, African harrier hawk, impala, wart hog, lots of termite mounds, and dung beetles pushing dung balls.
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Zebra
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Black Rhinos
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Black Rhino
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Vervet Monkey
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Nearly-Extinct Wild Dogs
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Nearly-Extinct Wild Dog
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Baboons
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Lone Bull Elephant
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Cape Buffalo
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Crocodile
Hluhluwe Game Reserve - Wart Hog
After the nature reserve, we boarded our coach and headed to the Kingdom of Swaziland, which is totally surrounded by South Africa. Upon arrival at the border, we shopped and used the bathrooms, then checked out of South Africa. The check out from South Africa was fast compared to Swaziland. Our guide joked that the border control staff in Swaziland type with one finger, and type even more slowly if you get impatient with them.
We drove two hours through the sugar cane fields, banana plantations, and farms towards the capital city of Mbabane. We saw the traditional beehive homes with thatched roofs and lots of cows wandering aimlessly along the road, much like the St. Lucia area we traveled through yesterday.
Swaziland - Fast-Disappearing Beehive Houses
Swaziland is best known for its craft industry. Just outside of Manzini, the second largest city in Swaziland, we stopped at a craft center featuring handmade candles, batik, handbags and jewelry.
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland - Candle & Crafts Mart
Swaziland Beer - Shopping Works Up a Thirst
Before we left the candle factory, we gave all our extra food from our morning box breakfast/lunch to all the kids in the parking lot.
After the candle factory tour, we drove to our hotel/casino in the Ezulwini Valley just south of the capital city Mbabane.
For dinner, we wandered across the street to a shopping mall and opted for a steak dinner at a Texas BBQ restaurant called Texas Spur.
After dinner, we went back to the hotel and went to bed. I was a bit upset that the porters left our bags outside our door in the hallway instead of placing them in our room. There was nothing of value inside.
Itinerary: Visited a local elementary school supported by Gate1 Foundation. Visited the Ngwenya glass factory to watch talented glass blowers create a range of enchanting African animals, birds and fish, as well as tableware, made from recycled glass that is collected by the children of Swaziland. About Swaziland from LonelyPlanet
Big things come in small packages. The intriguing kingdom of Swaziland is diminutive, but boasts a huge checklist for any visitor. Rewarding wildlife watching? Tick. Adrenaline-boosting activities such as rafting and mountain biking? Tick. Lively and colorful local culture, with celebrations and ceremonies still common practice? Tick. Plus there’s superb walking trails, stunning mountain and flatland scenery, and excellent, high-quality handicrafts. Presiding over this is King Mswati III, the last remaining absolute monarch in Africa, who, despite his critics, is the source of great national pride. Swaziland is remarkably relaxed, with friendly people and a lack of racial animosities. The excellent road system makes Swaziland a pleasure to navigate. Accommodation ranges from hostels to family-friendly hotels, wilderness lodges and upmarket retreats. Many travelers make a flying visit here on their way to Kruger National Park but it’s worth staying at least a week. The country measures 120 miles X 80 miles in size with 1.1 million people, 40% unemployment, and a 27% HIV rate.
Daily Journal
Weather: 80F and sunny
I got a good night sleep. I woke up at 6:30 am, tossed my luggage outside the door for the porters to collect around 7 am, and went to breakfast. It did not feel like Thanksgiving Day since it is not celebrated here, of course. Just another Thursday.
We departed the hotel at 8:15 am with our local guide Simon on board. We visited a local school supported by Gate1. I unloaded the bag of school supplies I brought over from the US. The school visit was one of the trip highlights. The children greeted us warmly at the bus upon arrival. Some took us by the hand and led us down the hill to their school. Once inside, the children sang songs and recited Bible passages. Most of the country is Christian. Those wishing to donate cash or in-kind gifts of school supplies and clothing can visit the school's Facebook page at Ezulwini Charity Initiatives Programmes.
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
VIDEO: Ezulwini Valley Preschool in Swaziland
At the end of the visit, members of our travel group passed out toys, school supplies, and other gifts. We also gave cash donations to the school. The school room had no desks, just chairs, and was devoid of anything other than pictures of numbers and the alphabet. Due to the high HIV rate in the country, there are a number of orphans in the school. Some kids wore threadbare clothing and whatever shoes that happen to fit, while others were better dressed.
Ezulwini Valley School Visit - Giving Away Toys & School Supplies
Ezulwini Valley School Visit - Teaching Staff
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
Ezulwini Valley School Visit - Recess with Nassir
Ezulwini Valley School Visit
After the school visit, we drove to nearby Ngwenya glass factory, which was quite interesting. We watched glassblowers from an observation platform plying their trade. It was quite warm with the furnace stoked up. We strolled the nearby craft shops containing a variety of handmade glass items and other textiles before boarding the bus and making the long drive north to Hazyview, South Africa, a gateway to Kruger National Park.
We reached the Swaziland/South Africa border at Jeppes Reef around 1 pm and had a quick crossing into South Africa.
Swaziland - Going Back to South Africa
Swaziland - Going Back to South Africa - Walking Over Border
Swaziland - Going Back to South Africa
South Africa - On Way to Hazyview - Shopping
South Africa - On Way to Hazyview - Pineapples
South Africa - On Way to Hazyview - Banana Plantation
We continued to Malelane, where we stopped for lunch and shopping. Our bus had some gear linkage issues so it was slower going to Hazyview than expected. We arrived about 25 minutes behind schedule at around 5:30 pm. The bus had some problems getting up the driveway at the Protea Hotel in Hazyview, so we got off and walked a short distance up to the hotel.
We had fantastic buffet dinner at the hotel and a birthday celebration for a few more people in our group. Then it was off to bed.
Birthday Celebration for Three Tour Group Members in Hazyview
The wall outlet situation turned critical as there were not enough of the right kind of outlets to charge all the cameras and phones for the following all-day game drive at Kruger. Fortunately, Nassir and Dayna from the group had a three-pronged, round-peg adapter with multiple American and European plugs on it that we borrowed for the night.
Itinerary: Started the day at dawn with coffee, tea, and rusks, a South African dry biscuit. Then departed for Kruger National Park to join a thrilling open-vehicle game drive. Larger than the state of Connecticut, the park offers some of the best game and wildlife viewing opportunities in the world, and early morning is an optimal time of day. We saw lion, elephant, giraffe, and zebra in their natural habitat. The leopard eluded us on this trip, but those who extended their journey to Botswana saw several of them. After lunch, we continued the game drive with an optional afternoon extension, while other group members returned to the hotel to relax poolside.
About Kruger Park from LonelyPlanet
If you enjoy watching wildlife, this is arguably one of the greatest places on earth to do it. If you’re new to watching wildlife then you’ve chosen well. Kruger is one of the world’s most famed protected areas – known for its size, conservation history, wildlife diversity and ease of access. It’s a place where the drama of life and death plays out daily, with up-close, action-packed sightings of wildlife almost guaranteed. One morning you may spot lions feasting on a kill, and the next, a newborn impala struggling to take its first steps.
Perhaps one of Kruger’s most underrated features is its landscape. Wilderness – be it bushveld, woodland or grassland – surrounds you with numerous places, such as Olifants Rest Camp, providing the perfect opportunity to really drink it in. Appreciating the landscape is vital to successful wildlife spotting; the animals might not always be around but the views never change.
Daily Journal
Weather: 80F and sunny
I got a good night sleep after getting to bed at 8:30 pm. I was up at 4 am, well before the 4:45 am wake-up call.
We had an all-day game drive in Kruger Park since we added the optional afternoon game drive to our itinerary. We saw all the Big Five, except the elusive leopard. The Big 5 are: lion, leopard, elephant, cape buffalo and rhino. The term "Big Five" was coined by big game hunters who considered them to be the most dangerous animals in Africa.
Kruger Park Founders - James Stevenson-Hamilton, Paul Kruger and Piet Grobler
Kruger Park Founders
Kruger Park - The "Big Five"
Kruger Park Wildlife
Kruger Park Wildlife
Today was a must for mosquito repellent, sun block, a wide brim hat, long pants, a long sleeve shirt, and binoculars. I got a little sunburned yesterday after being outside only 30 minutes while walking across the border from Swaziland to South Africa. The hotel provided a box breakfast and lunch so we wouldn't go hungry. It was more than sufficient.
The game drive operator picked us up at the hotel at 5:15 am and took us to Numbi Gate to meet our guide, Godfrey. He was extremely knowledgeable, but snapped at certain members of our group who would not stop chatting amongst themselves while he was trying to explain things to us.
Kruger Park - Numbi Gate Near Hazyview
Kruger Park - Jeep We Rode In
Kruger Park - Godfrey Giving Safety Briefing
Kruger Park - And Away We Go!
The game drive was exhilarating! We drove around the paved and dirt roads in a covered, open jeep for several hours discovering and learning about animals in the wild. The drivers were in radio contact so that we wouldn't miss opportunities to see the animals. A traffic jam always resulted when big game were sited. Often, the animals were in the road or close to it.
The morning wildlife sightings included the following animals:
Impala, cape buffaloes, elephants, kudu, water bucks, giraffes, rhinos, dung beetles, zebra, tortoises, wildebeests, hyenas, lions, nyala, warthogs, and numerous birds species.
Kruger Park - Cape Buffalo
Kruger Park - Elephants Feeding
Kruger Park - Elephants Feeding
VIDEO: Kruger National Park - Elephant Charging Vehicle
Kruger Park - Graceful Giraffe
Kruger Park - Antelopes - Park's "Fast Food"
Kruger Park - Dung Beetles Filling Their Role in the Food Chain
Kruger Park - Zebra
Kruger Park - Kudu
Kruger Park - Wildebeest
Kruger Park - Hyena Waiting for Lion Leftovers
Kruger Park - Lions Feeding on Cape Buffalo Kill
Kruger Park - Lions Feeding on Cape Buffalo Kill
Kruger Park - Lions Feeding on Cape Buffalo Kill
Kruger Park - Lone Bull
Kruger Park - Colorful Birds Abound
Following a one-hour lunch stop in the park, eight group members went back to the hotel while half of us continued the game drive.
Kruger Park - PM Group - Joe, Ellen, Isabelle, Ellis, Chris, Janet (Not Pictured)
Afternoon wildlife sightings included: More rhinos, giraffes, nyala, zebra and water bucks, plus a hippo hiding in a pond, vervet monkeys, bushboks, several colorful birds (white vultures, hammerkops, blue kingfisher, guinea fowl), and huge termite mounds.
Kruger Park - Dry River Bed
Kruger Park - Hiding Hippo
Kruger Park - Grazing Zebra
Kruger Park - Cape Buffalo at Roadside
Kruger Park - Another Mammoth Termite Mound
On the way back to the hotel, we made an unscheduled shopping stop at a roadside stand where one of our group members negotiated the purchase of a printed wall hanging through the bus window, like in many other parts of the world.
Kruger Park - Shopping - Batik Wall Hangings
After washing off all the dust and dirt from today's game drive, we met for buffet dinner at the hotel as 6:45 pm. Then it was off to bed early after being awake since 4 am.
Itinerary: Traveled to Mpumalanga Province, known as "Paradise Country," along the spectacular "Panoramic Route." Admired views of amazing scenery along the 16-mile-long Blyde River Canyon, cut deep into red sandstone. The stop at God's Window, a breathtaking, Edenic vista at the edge of the escarpment overlooking Kruger National Park, was preempted due to weather. Visited Bourke's Luck Potholes, a series of waterfalls and distinctive rock formations created by countless millennia of water erosion before proceeding to Johannesburg. About the Panoramic Route from Frommers
This is the most popular route to big-game country, with roads taking you past endless pine and eucalyptus plantations, interspersed with pockets of tangled indigenous jungle, plunging waterfalls, and breathtaking views of the subtropical plains. Nothing matches the magnificent view of the lowveld plains from the aptly named God's Window, or watching the Blyde River snake through the floor of the eponymous canyon 2,296 feet below. In addition, the region's popularity makes for a plethora of great accommodations; with the exception of Pilgrim's Rest, overnighting in any of the Escarpment towns (as opposed to the outlying areas) would be a mistake -- the surrounding forests and farms offer a lot more in the way of views and setting.
About Johannesburg from LonelyPlanet
Johannesburg, more commonly known as Jo’burg or Jozi, is a rapidly changing city and the vibrant heart of South Africa. The city is flourishing. Its center is smartening up and new loft apartments and office developments are being constructed at a rapid pace. The cultural district of Newtown, with its theatres, restaurants, museums and jazz clubs, is livelier than ever. Other inner city suburbs like Braamfontein and Doornfontein continue to gentrify since the World Cup and now house the coolest club, bars and cultural spaces. A thriving black middle class has risen up from the ashes of apartheid, both in the suburbs and in the famous township of Soweto. However, the wealth divide remains stark. The affluenza of Rosebank and Sandton breeds discontent in desperately poor, neighboring townships such as Alexandra and Diepskloot. Politicians stagnate while crime continues to disrupt daily life. Still, Jo’burg is an incredibly friendly, unstuffy city and there’s a lot to see here, from sobering reminders of the country’s recent past at the Apartheid Museum to the progressive streets of Melville.
Daily Journal
Weather: 75F and cloudy
I got a good night sleep after getting to bed at 8:30 pm.
Our wake up call came at 6 am and we were on the road by 7:30 am for the day long journey to Johannesburg via a mountainous, picturesque route.
After 1-1/2 hours of driving straight up into the mountains, we arrived at God's Window, a scenic overlook and our first planned stop along the "Panoramic Route," Mother Nature was not cooperating and the view was completely shrouded in heavy clouds so we couldn't see anything. Had the weather been nicer, we would have witnessed scenery like that shown in the picture below.
Panoramic Route - God's Window Overlook
Panoramic Route - God's Window Overlook on a Clear Day
Panoramic Route - Near God's Window Overlook
We proceeded a short distance down the mountain to Bourke's Luck Potholes, a series of waterfalls and distinctive rock formations created by countless millennia of water erosion. Breathtaking!
We continued our journey through the farm countryside, passing through Lydenburg and stopping for an hour in a busy down in a deep valley called Dullstroom. We strolled through all the shops and tried to get some coffee but the town was in the middle of a 2-hour scheduled blackout. So no coffee could be made and we went without. Electricity is in short supply in some areas of South Africa, so people have to go without it from time to time so that certain industries, like coal mining, can continue to generate money for the government unabated.
Lunch/shopping Stop in Dullstroom on Way to Johannesburg
Lunch/shopping Stop in Dullstroom on Way to Johannesburg
We continued our journey through the farm country to the town of Belfast. It poured rain much of the way. In Belfast, we got on the motorway and sped on to Johannesburg a few hours away. As we drove through the coal mining region just east of Johannesburg, it poured rain again and hailed. The bus windows steamed up again and our driver had to turn on the AC again to defog them.
En Route to Joburg - Joe Admiring the View :-)
We reached the outskirts of Johannesburg at 4:30 pm. It's a big city of 15 million people. The outskirts had a few shanty towns like Cape Town.
We arrived at our hotel in the Melrose Arch district at 5 pm. It was a bustling neighborhood with many shops and restaurants within a minute or two of the hotel. When we arrived at our room, we were shocked to find someone else in it. The female occupant of the room hid behind the bed when I came in. I think we both surprised to see each other. Others in our group had a similar issue. Our guide quickly fixed the problem. The Internet connection was great for the first time, but had a data limit we quickly met.
We ventured out for dinner on High Street adjacent to our hotel. It was packed with shops, restaurants and clubs. We opted for a restaurant called Moyo, which featured African fare. We feasted on several of the animals that we photographed yesterday at Kruger Park, including crocodile, kudu, warthog, and oxtail. Almost everyone else from our group found their way to Moyo as well. It was a truly authentic dining experience since this food is hard to find at home. Mimi our waitress made sure we ordered the best items on the menu.
Johannesburg - Melrose Arch District - Place is Jumping!
Johannesburg - Melrose Arch District - Moyo Restaurant
Exotic African Fare. Gotta Love the Bathroom Signage!
After dinner we went back to the hotel and to bed.
Itinerary: Half-day Soweto Tour where we experienced a fascinating glimpse into the bustling neighborhood life. Soweto is the most metropolitan township in the country, setting trends in politics, fashion, music, dance and language. Drove by the former residence of Bishop Desmond Tutu and visited Nelson Mandela's former home, before proceeding to the Hector Peterson memorial, dedicated to one of the first casualties of the Soweto uprising of 1976. After lunch, visited the Apartheid Museum to learn about South Africa's journey through the racial segregation experienced by millions of South Africans just over a decade ago. About Soweto from LonelyPlanet
The ‘South West Townships’ have evolved from an area of forced habitation to an address of pride and social prestige. Travelers come to witness the welcoming township life and to visit the former home of Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela, and the Hector Pieterson Museum. A stroll down laid-back Vilakazi St. offers an insight into modern African sensibilities, while the addition of Soccer City and the Soweto Bungee provide quality, concrete experiences in a place of great political abstraction. Mirroring much of South Africa, the rising middle class lives here alongside shack dwellers and the mass unemployed, yet all are equally buoyed by the history of Soweto as an icon of the struggle. Crime, HIV/AIDS and a widening wealth gap are evident in daily life here, but the mood is essentially optimistic. Many who break the cycle decide to stay and reinvest, and most laud their Sowetan upbringing. The townships are the heart of the nation and none beat louder than Soweto.
Daily Journal
Weather: 76F and sunny in the morning, cloudy and rainy in the afternoon
I got a good night sleep after getting to bed at 8:30 pm. We had breakfast at 6:30 am. Great spread.
Protea Fire & Ice Hotel - Johannesburg - Holly & Sarah Having Breakfast
Protea Fire & Ice Hotel - Johannesburg - Chair with a Very High Back
We departed the hotel at 8:30 am with our guide Meeshak for the tour of Soweto.
Soweto is 9 miles southwest of Joburg. Three classes of people: upper, middle and lower class. They do not consider themselves rich or poor, but "successful" and " aspiring to be successful."
We drove through different neighborhoods. Eventually we got to Vilakazy Street where we saw Desmond Tutu's house and visited the Mandela House Museum. Mandela lived in this house again only for a brief period following his release from prison. It is as he left it, complete with furnishings and momentos from his distinguished life as an activist, teacher and leader.
Johannesburg - View of City
Johannesburg - View of City
Johannesburg - View of City
Johannesburg - Slag from Gold Mining Operations in Town
Soweto Near Johannesburg
Soweto Near Johannesburg
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Desmond Tutu Home
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Nelson Mandela House
After the Mandela House Museum, we went to the Hector Pieterson Memorial honoring a youth who was shot and killed by police in 1976 during a student protest involving 15,000 students. They were protesting a plan to replace English with Afrikaans (Dutch) as the language of educational instruction. His death was a symbol of the plight of youth under the yoke of Apartheid. The tragedy marked the beginning of the end of Apartheid.
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Hector Pieterson Museum
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Hector Pieterson Museum
Soweto - Hector Pieterson Museum - Deceased Hector
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Hector Pieterson Museum
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Hector Pieterson Museum
Soweto Near Johannesburg - Bungee Jump Towers
We then returned to the hotel and caught a cab to Mandela Square in the nearby Sandton District where we saw the Nelson Mandela statue and stopped at the Hard Rock Cafe for a T-shirts and other souvenirs.
Sandton District of Johannesburg - Mandela Square
Sandton District of Johannesburg - Mandela Square - Mitra & Joe
Sandton District of Johannesburg - Mandela Square
Sandton District of Johannesburg - Mandela Square
We then returned to the hotel to catch our bus to the Apartheid Museum. The Apartheid Museum had a special temporary Nelson Mandela exhibit to commemorate the year since his passing. The rest of the museum told the history of Johannesburg starting with the discovery of gold in 1886. It then traces the history of Apartheid and its eventual demise in the late 1980s, and the history from then till now.
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum -Mandela Writings
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum - Mandela to be Released from Prison
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum - South Africa Bill of Rights
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
Johannesburg - Apartheid Museum
We returned to the hotel at 4:30 pm in the pouring rain. It eventually blew over and the sun came out again.
At 7 pm, our group met at the hotel for a farewell dinner. Some members of the group were leaving for home and the rest of us were going on to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
Itinerary: After breakfast, transferred to the airport for flight to Victoria Falls, a World Heritage site with breathtaking views and thunderous sounds. The Falls are a little over a mile wide and 351 feet high, making them one-and-a half times as wide and twice as high as the Niagara Falls.
In the afternoon, enjoyed an Elephant Back Safari featuring an exhilarating journey along the edge of the Zambezi gorges following ancient game trails while exploring the majestic grasslands of Victoria Falls National Park.
About Zimbabwe from LonelyPlanet
After a decade of political ruin, violence and economic disaster, finally some good news is coming out of Zimbabwe – tourism is back. Visitors are returning in numbers not seen since the turmoil began, to spot the Big Five strut their stuff around spectacular parks, discover World Heritage–listed archaeological sites and stand in awe of the natural wonder of the world, Victoria Falls. A journey here will take you through an attractive patchwork of landscapes, from central highveld, balancing boulders and flaming msasa trees, to laid back towns, lush Eastern Highlands mountains and a network of lifeblood rivers up north. Along the way you’ll receive a friendly welcome from locals, famous for their politeness and resilience in the face of hardship. While there may be a long way to go, sure signs of recovery continue in Zimbabwe, giving hope to this embattled nation that a new dawn will soon rise.
Daily Journal
Weather: 82F and sunny
I slept well. We got a 5:30 am wake up call to allow ample time to have breakfast and drive to the Johannesburg airport for our 11 am, 1-1/2 hour flight to Victoria Falls.
Johannesburg - Waiting for 10:50 AM Flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Johannesburg - Boarding Plane to Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls - Finally Arrived - Very Hot Day
Upon arrival at 12:30 pm, we endured a slow customs process. Everyone had to buy a visa upon arrival and pay cash in US dollars for it. Visa processing was all manual. To get through it quickly, we were instructed to make a beeline for the customs line while the other tourists hung out taking photos of the plane on the tarmac. Upon entering the terminal, they took our temperature with infrared cameras to make sure we didn't have Ebola. The plane was not full so the customs line was not too lengthy.
After paying $30 for my visa, I went over to the luggage area where the handlers were slowing unloading bags in the 82F heat and high humidity. Outside a group of dancers in native costume sang and danced.
Victoria Falls - Dancers Welcoming Us at Airport
After clearing customs and retrieving our luggage, we met our driver Michael out in the arrival area and headed to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge hotel about 20 minutes away. It was situated inside the Zambezi National Park. The hotel is surrounded by a tall electric fence. We were not permitted to go outside because of all the wild animals roaming the park. All the rooms had mosquito mesh over the beds and plenty of bug spray and sunscreen.
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Awesome Place
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Open Air Common Areas
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Safe Wild Life - Electric Fence Surrounds Place
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Our Room
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Relaxing - Isabelle, Ellen, Janet, Susan & Joe
After settling into the hotel, we went for a sundown cruise on the Zambezi River. It lasted 2-1/2 hours. The Zambezi is the 4th longest river in Africa. We puttered back and forth across the Zimbabwe and Zambia border, enjoying appetizers and bottomless free cocktails while photographing wildlife and learning about the history of the river. We saw egrets, crocodiles, bushbok, hippos and a variety of birds. After six glasses of wine everyone saw the elusive leopard too. At the end of the cruise, we witnessed a beautiful sunset.
Victoria Falls - Sundown Cruise on the Zambezi River
Victoria Falls - Sundown Cruise on the Zambezi River
Victoria Falls - Sundown Cruise on the Zambezi River
Victoria Falls - Sundown Cruise on the Zambezi River
Victoria Falls - Sundown Cruise on the Zambezi River
After the cruise, we went back to the hotel where we had dinner in the outdoor dining area. We watched the elephant's gather at the watering hole and make loud trumpeting noises. I enjoyed listening to the four American women at next table complain that there was a lot of strange stuff on the menu like warthog and kudu.
I was exhausted after dinner so went right to bed.
Itinerary: Enjoyed a morning guided tour of the Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The tour featured a walk through the magnificent rain forest to view the Cataracts, Livingston's statue and a wide variety of birds and plants. After the tour, visited a craft market in the town of Victoria Falls Returned to the hotel for lunch and to witness the daily vulture feeding In the afternoon, enjoyed an Elephant Back Safari featuring an exhilarating journey along the edge of the Zambezi gorges following ancient game trails while exploring the majestic grasslands of Victoria Falls National Park. About Victoria Falls from LonelyPlanet
The Victoria Falls are one of the world's most spectacular plunges. The 1.2 mile wide Zambezi River drops more than 328 feet into a steeply-walled gorge. The Zambian side of Victoria Falls has long played second fiddle to its better-known Zimbabwean counterpart, but trouble next door means Livingstone is positively booming. For close-up views of the Eastern Cataract, nothing beats the hair-raising (and hair-wetting) walk across the footbridge, through swirling clouds of mist, to a sheer buttress called the Knife Edge. If the water is low and the wind favorable, you'll be treated to a magnificent view of the falls and the yawning abyss below the Zambezi Bridge. Adrenaline junkies can indulge in white-water rafting, abseiling, river-boating, jet-boating, bungee jumping and a host of airborne activities. At certain times of year it is even possible to visit Livingstone Island and swim at the very edge of the Falls.
Daily Journal
Weather: 85F and sunny
I awoke at 5 am after a good night sleep to a gorgeous day. We had breakfast in the outdoor restaurant overlooking the watering hole below.
At 8 am, we departed for the morning tour of Victoria Falls with rain coats, umbrellas, hats, shower caps, sunscreen, insect repellent, and a bag of clothes to barter with at the craft market after the tour.
We walked the mile-long pathway along the cliffs overlooking the falls. The mist from the falls was soothing against the heat of the sun. In many spots, the mist was so dense it felt like falling rain. There were several scenic overlooks for admiring the thundering falls. In a few spots, you are able to get very close to the edge, which made me very queasy. At the end of the walkway, we watched a bungee jumper dive off a bridge over the Zambezi River.
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
VIDEO: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders - Zambia on Other Side
Victoria Falls - Devil's Pool on the Zambia Side
Victoria Falls - Devil's Pool on the Zambia Side
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - One of the World's Natural Wonders
Victoria Falls - Bungee Jumper
After the falls, we stopped at the local craft market in Victoria Falls. There were all sorts of handmade items. The salespeople were very aggressive. I didn't buy anything but I gave my throwaway shorts and t-shirt to some local women at one booth with a few dollars tucked in the pockets. They were happy for the gift. Other people wanted my shoes and socks to trade, but I needed those.
Victoria Falls - Craft Mart
Victoria Falls - People I Gave My Old Clothes To
Victoria Fall - Worthless Zimbabwe Money
Around noon, we went back to the hotel to watch the vulture feeding. A staff member from the hotel kitchen came down from the lodge with a box of meat and animal bones. Hundreds, literally hundreds, of vultures circled overhead and landed as the animal entrails were scattered about. The guy from the kitchen then quickly got out of the way as the feeding frenzy ensued and a humongous dust cloud erupted.
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Victoria Falls - Daily Vulture Feeding at Hotel
Video: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe - Vulture Feeding
At 2:30 pm we departed for the Elephant Back Safari. We drove in the back of a hot truck. We drove several miles out to a private game reserve. We paired up, went to the top of a ramp and loaded up. The park has all the Big 5 animals but we didn't see anything. One of the park employees with a gun walked amongst us ready to shoot-to-kill in the event of a wild animal attack.
Victoria Falls - Waiting for the Elephant Back Safari to Start
Our elephant was Masuie and our driver was Mandi. Masuie was a 15-year-old female. Since elephants secrete water through the backside of their ears to help keep cool, I was showered throughout the ride. That's probably why the operator suggests wearing long pants for the ride. My knees were quite stiff after straddling an elephant's back for 45 minutes. But the consolation prize at the end was feeding snacks to and posing for pictures with Masuie.
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Liability Release Forms
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Starting a Fashion Trend
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Away We Go!
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - On Elephant Back
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Joe & I with Driver
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Joe & I with Driver
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Members of Tour Group
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Posing with Our Elephant
Victoria Falls - Elephant Back Safari - Posing with Our Elephant
For dinner we went to The Boma down the road from the hotel. Dinner included a culture show with traditional song and dance. As we entered the restaurant, we were covered in a colorful toga-like wrap and cajoled into mimicking the steps of some native dancers. I still can't dance.
Victoria Falls - The Boma Restaurant
Victoria Falls - The Boma Restaurant - I Can't Dance
For dinner I ate a mopani worm and got a certificate of achievement. I had an impala pate appetizer, followed by traditional steak, chicken kabobs and roast pork. Others had more exotic meals like kudu, crocodile and warthog. The culture show was the usual native dance and music, but entertaining. At the end everyone in the audience was beating on drums and dancing.
Victoria Falls - The Boma Restaurant
Victoria Falls - The Boma Restaurant
Around 9:15 pm, after the show, we caught the shuttle back to our hotel 1/2 a mile away. Despite our last night on the trip, we still had one full morning of sightseeing to go before heading to the airport for the flight home in the afternoon.
I packed my suitcase for the trip home, took a much needed shower, and went to bed.
Itinerary: Morning Lion walk followed by transfer to the airport for the long journey back to the US via Johannesburg. Daily Journal
Weather: 85F and sunny
I slept on and off all night. Fortunately, it was a travel day with a 17-hour flight to New York, so catching up on sleep was a possibility. We got a 5:30 am wake up call for the Lion Experience departure at 6 am.
We arrived at the Lion Experience at 7 am after picking up a few more people at other hotels in downtown Victoria Falls. Upon arrival, we got our safety talk and signed liability release forms like we did for the elephant safari yesterday. Then our guide Liki introduced us to our lions, Savannah and Shingalana, two 19-month-old sisters from the same litter.
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - The Handlers
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Our Lions
We each took turns walking with the lions individually and in tandem. We also got to pose on one knee behind the lions. Afterwards, we got to see and pose with some younger cubs. We then went back to a meeting area where we had breakfast and watched a video of our walk. On the way out, we walked around an enclosure with two more lions. I ran around the enclosure to see if I could get them excited. They perked up and watched me run with my cap bouncing along behind me on my belt like a tail.
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Joe Walking His "Kitty"
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Team "Gate1"
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Cubs - Tame as Kittens
VIDEO: Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Cubs Playing
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Little Cub
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Breakfast at Base Camp
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Breakfast at Base Camp
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - Breakfast at Base Camp
Victoria Falls - Lion Experience - They Think I'm Breakfast
While we did the Lion Experience, a few other people from our group went on a helicopter ride over Victoria Falls. The aerial views of the falls and wild animals below were spectacular. Here are a few of their photos.
Victoria Falls - Scenic Helicopter Ride
Victoria Falls - Aerial View from the Helicopter
Victoria Falls - Aerial View from the Helicopter
Victoria Falls - Aerial View from the Helicopter
Victoria Falls - Aerial View from the Helicopter
Victoria Falls - Aerial View from the Helicopter
Around 10:00 am, we returned to the hotel. I showered, put on my remaining clean clothes, checked out of my room, and met the group for the transfer to the airport for the early afternoon South African Airways flight to Johannesburg. Only five of us were going home. The other 11 or so went on to Botswana for a few more days.
It was hard saying goodbye. The people on the tour were so nice.
Victoria Falls - "Big Five" Heading Home
We arrived at the airport at 11:25 am. The check-in was slow but we had time. Our flight departed Victoria Falls for Johannesburg at 1:15 pm and we arrived around 3:00 pm. We found our way to Terminal A and shopped for an hour or so before heading to the gate.
Victoria Falls - Leaving Zimbabwe for Johannesburg
Around 6 pm, airport security set up a checkpoint at our gate and checked everyone's carry on luggage. We boarded our South African Airways A340-300 around 6:45 pm and departed in the dark for the 8 hour, 10 minute flight to Dakar, Senegal at 7:45 pm.
Johannesburg - Plane Headed to JFK via Dakar, Senegal
I fell asleep almost immediately but was awoken 30 minutes later by drink service. Dinner was served shortly thereafter. Then I went to sleep for a few hours.
Itinerary: Morning arrival at JFK. Domestic flight home. Daily Journal
Weather: 76F in Dakar, 40F in New York City, 33F in Milwaukee
We landed around 2 am in Dakar, Senegal on the west coast of Africa for a one-hour refueling stop. Dakar is two hours behind South African time. It was dark so there wasn't much to see. It was a balmy 76F there and about all I noticed were the blinking lights of a night club and the headlights of a few cars below.
Johannesburg to JFK - 8 Hours into Flight and Still in Africa!
The airplane crew was switched out and some people got off, most notably the smelly guy across the aisle from Joe. The smelly lady in front of me stayed though.
The cleaning crew came aboard and all I could think was "Ebola." Meanwhile, a man on a cell phone spoke loudly enough for all to hear as he spoke with various relatives in New York. "I'm in Dakar....(where?)....Senegal.... it's the halfway point," he told each person he called. By the third call, I was repeating his sentence in my head as he spoke, "I'm in Dakar...(where?)....Senegal....it's the halfway point."
Some new passengers got on and thoughts of Ebola crossed my mind again. This stop was probably more dangerous than the lion walk yesterday. Security came aboard and made each person identify his or her carry on. Someone was sleeping when they made the sweep through the plane, so security confiscated a knapsack and called the owner's name out over the PA until an embarrassed Bailey Sawyer awoke to claim it.
At 3:20 am local time in Dakar, we were on our way again. I tried to sleep after getting several hours of sleep en route to Dakar. I got a few more hours but could have used more.
We managed to stay one hour ahead of the sun while crossing the Atlantic. Around 6:15 am Eastern US Time, 7 hours behind South Africa, we land at JFK. We cleared customs, retrieved our luggage, said goodbye to Janet and Ellen from our tour group, and caught the shuttle to LaGuardia airport. I said goodbye to Joe and Russ from the tour group and managed to catch a flight 3-1/2 hours earlier to Milwaukee.
Johannesburg to JFK - Early Morning Arrival at JFK - Home!
My little regional jet for Milwaukee departed LaGuardia an hour behind schedule at 10:40 am. It landed 20 minutes behind schedule at 11:45 am. I collected my bag and caught the noon city bus home from the airport.
I arrived home around 12:30 pm and did all my laundry, took a nap and sorted through hundreds of pictures.
In the last 30 hours I went from the southern to the northern hemisphere, from summer to winter, and from holiday mode to my normal routine. But great memories of South Africa and the new friends I made will keep me smiling for weeks to come.
