Chris Trost's 2009 Peru Adventure

Introduction to Peru from Lonely Planet

If you crave adventure, jump on the next plane to Peru. Peru is an epic fantasyland. Imagine forgotten temples entangled in jungle vines, cobwebbed imperial tombs baking in the desert sun and ancient bejeweled treasures beyond reckoning. Wild rivers that rage around Cuzco, pumas that prowl in the night and hallucinogenic shaman rituals that are centuries old. After all, this is the South American country that chewed up and spat out empire after empire – even Inca warriors and Spanish conquistadors didn’t stand a lasting chance. No one could completely conquer this jaw-dropping terrain, from the Cordillera Blanca with dozens of peaks exceeding 17,000 feet, down to the vast coastal deserts and the hot, steamy rainforests of the Amazon Basin. Wanna take it easy? Follow the Gringo Trail that connects the country’s highlights, winding up to the mountaintop Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. Or step off the beaten path and groove to Afro-Peruvian beats during Carnaval, float in a slow boat down the Amazon and chase that perfect wave along a paradisiacal Pacific coastline. Almost like a continent in miniature, Peru will astound you with its diversity, from its countless indigenous peoples, languages and traditions to its rainbow variety of wildlife. Whether it’s your first trip to South America or your fiftieth, Peru is the perfect launchpad. Travel however and wherever the spirit moves you – a luxury lodge in the Amazon, cheap ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) at a beachfront café or a panoramic train ride through the Andes – because it’s all surprisingly affordable.

Peru Trip Day by Day:

Post-Trip Summary
Day 1 - October 19, 2009 - Milwaukee to Lima, Peru
Day 2 - October 20, 2009 - Lima, Cusco & Pisac
Day 3 - October 21, 2009 - The Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo & Urubamba
Day 4 - October 22, 2009 - Machu Picchu
Day 5 - October 23, 2009 - Cusco City Tour
Day 6 - October 24, 2009 - Cusco & Saqsayhuaman
Day 7 - October 25, 2009 - Drive Cusco to Puno, Andahuaylillas, La Raya & Lake Titicaca
Day 8 - October 26, 2009 - Lake Titicaca, Floating Village & Isla Taquile
Day 9 - October 27, 2009 - Puno, Sillustani & Flight to Lima
Day 10 - October 28, 2009 – Lima
Day 11 - October 29, 2009 – Lima to USA

Peru Vacation Journal - Post-Trip Summary

This trip will go down as one of the best I have ever taken. I spent 11days in Peru visiting Machu Picchu, Cusco, Puno, Lake Titicaca and Lima. It was 9,000 miles of intriguing history, interesting sights, amazing scenery, stellar weather, friendly people, great food, comfortable accommodations and fun travel companions. This was my second vacation to South America in 2009. I only wish I had come sooner because the experience was one I will ever forget.


Where in the %^&* is Peru? How Did You Get There? Peru is located along the western Pacific coast of South America. It borders 5 countries: Ecuador and Columbia in the north, Brazil and Bolivia on the east and Chile on the south. Its northern border touches the equator and its southern border is somewhat close to the Tropic of Capricorn. Peru is in the same time zone as Central US, so there were no jet lag issues to contend with on this trip.

To get to Peru, I flew from Milwaukee, to Atlanta, to Miami to Lima to Cusco. I spent 12 hours in the air, 15 hours of layovers (mostly in Miami), and covered 4,330 miles to get to Cusco. The longest flight was Miami to Lima on LAN Peru, which was 2,626 miles and took almost 6 hours. While in Peru, we got from city to city mostly by bus, except that we flew from Juliaca near Puno back to Lima near the end of the trip. On the way home, I flew the same route from Lima back to Milwaukee. That was about 3,900 miles and 10 hours, not 7 hours of layovers in Miami and Atlanta. At least I got home at a decent hour because I had to go back to work the next day. The final tally on the trip was 8,659 miles, 24 hours in the air, and 22-1/2 hours of layovers. Travel is never easy.

How Long Was Your Trip? Where Did You Go? My trip lasted 11 days and covered a lot of ground.

• I spent 2-1/2 days getting back and forth from my home in Milwaukee to Peru.
• I spent 2-1/2 days in the Sacred Valley region visiting ancient sites of the Inca empire in Pisac, Ollanta and Machu Picchu.
• I spent 2 days exploring Cusco, the former capital of the ancient Inca empire visiting more Inca ruins and a number of historic buildings built by the Spanish after their conquest of the Inca empire.
• I then traveled from Cusco to Puno where we spent 3 days exploring Lake Titacaca and the area occupied by indigenous Indian tribes before the arrival of the Incas.
• I then flew from Juliaca to Lima and spent the last day there exploring the capital city, in particular, the colonial section of time built by the Spanish over 500 years ago.

Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company? With Whom Did You Travel? I traveled with SmarTours, the same company I used for my Thailand & Cambodia trip in 2007 and my Chile, Argentina & Brazil trip in January 2009. I thought the itinerary hit all the major stops and was nicely paced. There was plenty of leisure time to venture out on my own though I could have used an extra day in Lima to explore the city. The best part is that the group was small, so we were able to do a lot more. We had a free day in the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu that I had planned to use to sightsee on my own. But our program director ended up planning an optional tour that day that included all the sights I had planned to see on my own. In the end, I was able to do everything I planned for less money and in less time.
I traveled on my own this trip. My usual travel posse had either been here before or couldn’t make the trip for one reason or another. My travel group had 13 people from North America, including 2 Canadians. The rest of the group came from other parts of the US. Usually you have one or two crazy people in every tour group, but not this time
For most of the trip, we had a Peruvian program director named Enrique Virto from Cusco. He expertly guided us from site to site around Cusco and neighboring cities. He was very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. In Puno, Lake Titicaca and Sillustani, a local guide named Charo joined the group. We left Enrique and Charo behind in Juliaca near Puno and picked up a new guide Kika in Lima. She also did a nice job but I didn’t get to know her as well as Enrique because of our short 1-1/2 days together.

Where Did You Stay? We stayed in several 4- and 5-star hotels along the way. Most were situated right in or near the heart of each town we stayed in, close to major sites and transportation. All the accommodations were modern, clean and comfortable. Each offered American and Continental breakfast, which were generally quite good. Top to Bottom, Left to Right the hotels were: Sonesta Posada del Inca Yucay Hotel, Novotel Cuzco Hotel, Libertador Lake Titicaca Hotel, Casa Andina Private Collection Lima (Miraflores).

What Was the Food Like? We found pretty much any type of food we wanted. Meat and potatoes and other vegetables seemed to be the norm down there. I especially developed a liking for the local breads and soups, particularly corn soup and soup containing quinua, a local plant. A delicacy in Peru is guinea pig (cuy), which I did not eat, and alpaca, which I did. The alpaca tasted like rabbit and tended to be leaner and a little drier than beef.


How Were the People? The locals were pretty friendly. We had no problems whatsoever. However, there was a language barrier since few people spoke English. I made a mental note to learn Spanish—for real this time.
As in most poorer countries with lots of wealthy tourists, there tended to be a number of beggars. In areas like Cusco and Puno, it was common to see locals parading around the streets in brightly colored traditional clothing with llamas, alpacas and children. For a sole or two, you could have your photo taken with them. And everywhere we went, there were the usual souvenir stands with local crafts and clothing made from alpaca fur. A lot of clothing being hawked as real alpaca wool is synthetic. So beware.

Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Generally yes because our tour company provided a bus and driver who took us everywhere we needed to go. Otherwise, we walked.

What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like? We dealt with one currency, the New Peruvian Sol, but you could use the US dollar just as easily. In fact, ATMs dispensed both soles and dollars. The US dollar lost 10% of value over the eight months preceding the trip, but things were still relatively cheap by American standards. ATMs were by far the cheapest place to get local money and were in abundant supply. If you are going to exchange US dollars for Peruvian Soles, or pay with US dollars, make sure your US dollars are clean with no tears whatsoever. Otherwise they will not be accepted.

So Net-Net, What Did This Whole Trip Cost You? This was one of the less expensive trips I ever took. The base trip cost $2,070, but I ended up spending about $2,750 for 11 days, or roughly $250 per day. On top of the cost of the base trip, I spent $220 on meals not included in the trip, $125 on air and other transporation costs to get to and around Peru, $100 on trip cancellation insurance, $90 on tips to our guides and drivers, $60 for optional sightseeing tours, $40 on souvenirs, and $8 for miscellaneous items.

How was the Weather? We traveled in the middle of spring in South America. And because we were about 12°S latitude, the weather was quite mild. Generally it was in the mid-70s and clear to partly cloudy everday. While down in Cusco and Puno, it tended to cloud up and rain in the late afternoon. Even at this time of the year, sunscreen and a hat were musts. I got sunburned a few days. Mosquito repellant was also a must as they are quite common this time of year around Cusco and Puno.

Was the altitude as big as issue as they made it out to be? Yes, the high altitudes of the major cities and sites were REALLY something to contend with, especially when combined with negotiating steep grades, navigating uneven surfaces and climbing lots and lots of steps. I often found myself out of breath during the trip even with a little exertion (and I run 60 miles a week). Several people in my group decided not to climb up the temple at Ollantaytambo so that they would have energy to climb Machu Picchu the next day.

To help visitors adjust, many tour companies build itineraries like mine, which include flying into Cusco and ascending immediately to the Sacred Valley and saving the Lima for the trip's end. All the hotels served coca tea, which is supposed to help with altitude sickness. Other people took prescription diamox, which you must start taking two days before arrival.

City	Feet Above Sea Level
Cusco	11,203
La Raya	14,000
Machu Picchu	7,970
Puno/Titicaca	12,628
Sillustani	13,834
Lima	505

Any Parting Comments? Yes. Travel is an adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never come back the same person. And for that, I have a lot to be thankful for.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 1 - October 19, 2009 - Milwaukee to Lima, Peru

Itinerary: I traveled from Milwaukee to Miami via Atlanta, then caught an overnight flight from Miami to Lima, Peru.



Daily Journal

Weather: Clear, cool and sunny.

I signed up for this trip 8 months ago and the big day finally arrived. As usual, I got no sleep the night before the trip so was dragging all day.
I left Milwaukee at 7 am for an uneventful flight to Atlanta. I had a short layover and had to hustle to make my connection in another terminal. The flight left Atlanta on time and we arrived on schedule in Miami around 12:30 pm.

As I was waiting for my luggage, I got a call from my travel friend Dave. He said he would not be able to make the trip due to family issues. So I was solo the entire trip. Of course, I met people from my tour group so I was never alone, thought it’s always nice to travel with friends because it makes the experience more enjoyable. Of course, I won’t complain about having a single room all to myself.

The day at the Miami airport was, well, boring. I pretty much just milled around for 8 hours before I could check in and get rid of the luggage I lugged around all day. I flew on LAN, the same airline we took to Chile, Argentina and Brazil back in January 2009. Through a strange twist of fate, I ran into our tour guide Alex from the January trip while checking in. He remembered our group and the four Canadians in it that tried to take over the tour. I also met two people in my tour group (Roxanne and Yvette) while lunching at Chili’s. They also had a long day of waiting around with nothing to do. I spotted the fluorescent orange SmarTours luggage tags at the table next to me and struck up a conversation with them. I really didn’t see anyone else from the tour until after I got to the gate. I always lie low and take a survey of the landscape before I start making friends.



The flight to Lima started to board around 11 pm and we left on time at almost midnight. The flight would last a little less than six hours, which is like flying from New York to London. As soon as I got to my seat, I put on my eye mask, ear plugs and next pillow, popped a valium and went right to sleep. Short flights aren’t conducive to sleep and I was really tired.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 2 - October 20, 2009 - Lima, Cuzco & Pisac

Itinerary: We arrived early in the morning in Peru’s capital, Lima. We then connected for a short flight to Cuzco, the fabled capital of the Inca Empire, perched at about 11,000 feet above sea level. On arrival, we journeyed to the nearby Sacred Valley of the Incas. The valley has amazing landscapes of fertile land, mystical ruins and indigenous villages. We also drove to nearby Pisac, home to a world renowned and colorful Indian market where many beautiful crafts are traded. We stayed overnight in Yucay, a town close to Cuzco and about 45 minutes from Machu Picchu.

About Cuzco from Lonely Planet

The high-flying Andean city of Cuzco (also Cusco, or Qosq’o in the Quechua language) is the uneasy bearer of many grand titles. It was once the foremost city of the Inca empire, and is now the undisputed archaeological capital of the Americas, as well as the continent’s oldest continuously inhabited city. Few travelers to Peru will skip visiting this premier South American destination, which is also the gateway to Machu Picchu. Although Cuzco was long ruled by an inca (king) or a Spanish conquistador, there’s no question of who rules the roost in the 21st century: city life is almost totally at the whim of international tourists. These days nearly every building surrounding the historic Plaza de Armas seems to be a tourist hotel, restaurant, shop, travel agency or busy internet café.

While Cuzco has rapidly developed infrastructure to at least partly cope with the influx of tourism over the last few decades, its historical past retains a powerful grip on the present. Massive Inca-built walls line steep, narrow cobblestone streets and form the foundations of modern buildings. The plazas are thronged with Quechua-speaking descendants of the Incas, and ancient treasures are carefully guarded inside colonial mansions and churches.

Daily Journal

Weather: Perfect - clear, sunny and 70F, with a late afternoon shower.

Oh joy, I popped a valium tablet just before take off and I slept all the way to Lima. I woke up just 10 minutes before the flight landed and I had no recollection of taking off or the dinner they served right after we left Miami. The flight took about 5-1/2 hours so I was well rested upon arrival at 4:30 in the morning. Fortunately Peru and Milwaukee are in the same time zone so there will be no jet lag on this trip.

We sat around the airport for 2 hours waiting for our connecting flight to Cuzco, which is about 2 hours to the east in the Andes Mountains, some 11,000 feet in altitude.

I arrived in Cuzco on time around 10:30 am. It was a beautiful sunny day. We had a spectacular view of the Andes Mountains coming in. We came in really hot since the city is surrounded by high mountains with terraces dating back to Incas. Cuzco is at 11,000 feet so I wasn't surprise that they had an oxygen booth at the airport. I got a little dizzy from time to time, so had to take it easy until I adjusted to the high altitude.



Our Program Director Enrique Virto met us at the airport, which is located in the center of the city of 400,000. We drove through town and scaled the mountain towards Saqsaywaman, an ancient military establishment high above the city that now lies in ruins. We stopped at the roadside for a killer view of Cuzco with all its orange tile roofs stretching into the distance against the backdrop of the Andes.

Video of Cuzco, Peru:



After stopping for photos of Cuzco from our lofty perch, we went to a nearby local store to shop for authentic Peruvian items. They sold alpaca and llama sweaters and other Peruvian goods. They also had this amusing chess board with phallus adorning each piece.





Outside the shop was a woman with an alpaca and a llama. They look alike but the llama has less hair on its head and looks more like a camel.


After shopping, we drove through the Sacred Valley to Pisac along a steep mountain road that wound around the Andes. The Sacred Valley was so named in the 1850s because it was so fertile. Along the way we stopped at a scenic overlook where a Amazon River tributary flowed through.

After arriving in Pisac, we had lunch at a local restaurant called Ulrike's Cafe. I had quinua soup. Quinoa is a type of wheat. The soup was delicious. After lunch, I strolled the Pisac food and craft market and took a lot of pictures. My usual travel friends Vicki and Vicky would have gone nuts. There was so much stuff.

Look at those roasted guinea pigs, a delicacy here:




After Pisac, we drove 45 minutes to Yucay, a town in the heart of the Sacred Valley about 45 minutes from Machu Picchu. The Sonesta Posadas Hotel del Inca where I am staying in very nice. Around 6:15 pm we had a group orientation meeting to get more details about our tour then enjoyed a welcome dinner at the hotel. I had corn soup, traditional Peruvian beef saute and dessert. Dinner was great. Here's a shot out of my hotel room.


After dinner, I hung out with some people on my tour and called it an early night. I got little sleep on the plane so I was really tired.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 3 - October 21, 2009 - The Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo & Urubamba

Itinerary: We traveled into the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo and explored the splendid ruins of this massive ancient fortress. The village below was a fine example of the Inca's incredible urban planning skills. We then visited a local bar (Chicheria) to sample a local fermented corn beverage called chicha. After the bar, we went to a nearby town called Urubamba to visit the local market.



Daily Journal

Weather: Partly cloudy and 70F.

I got a good night sleep after getting very little over the last two days. I felt refreshed. And the cold shower woke me up. Our hotel is a former monastery.

We started the day at the ancient ruins in Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. This is the second most visited Inca ruins after Machu Picchu. We got a primer on the Inca empire and how they got to the Sacred Valley along the way.

The Inca came from Lake Titicaca area in the 1300s and found the fertile Sacred Valley and Cusco and decided to stay. They met less sophistocated tribes there and gained their respect by saying they were demigods--children of the sun. They knew the movements of the sun and where it would be at all times of the year so the local tribes believed they were gods and joined the Inca nation. It took 100 years to organize the Inca empire. The Inca borrowed the best practices of other tribes--arts, building techniques, farming--to build and improve the empire and in the 1400s they started building massive structures, the ruins of which we visited throughout our trip. First was Machu Picchu and the last Ollantaytambo, where we are going now. While most tribes joined the Inca empire freely, some had to be conquered for the Inca to expand their territory. The Inca generally respected others and were tolerant of others to gain their trust. The Incas empire flourished until the arrival of Pizarro and the Spanish in 1532.

We stopped in a small town below Ollantaytambo, the streets and buildings of which have stood since Inca times because the Spanish leader in charge of the town fell in love with a local girl.


After strolling through the perfectly preserved 500 year old town, we stopped at the home of a local family to get an upclose, personal glimpse into how they lived. It was a very rustic setting. The inside of the house was charred black from cooking inside. We learned that the youngest child of every household in this area was obligated to care for the parents in exchange for receiving the house when the parents pass on. The family was actually a farm family, but their land was located some distance way.


After the home visit, we made our way to the ruins of Ollantaytambo. Along the way, we met a local family for a photo op. They looked much older than they really were. The life expectancy for this very poor class of indigenous people is very short. The woman I sat next to for a photo was only 20 years old and had two kids. She looked 40.

Locals singing to us in Quechuan:

The Incas built their communities in the shape of animals. Ollantaytambo is the shape of a llama and baby, like a constellation they saw in the sky. Machu Picchu is the shape of a lizard.


Across from Ollantaytambo on the mountain is the face of a man with a crown and beard. Next to it is the House of the Sun where the sun shines first on the summer solstice in December. Our tour of Ollantaytambo started with a long climbe up 250 steps to the top where we viewed the terraces, buildings and temples to the sun and moon. Inspiring monuments and scenery.








After Ollantaytambo, we went to a chicheria, a bar, and played the frog game. You toss coins at the mouth of a metal frog. If you get it in the mouth you score the most points (5,000). There are other holes around the mouth for fewer points. The men played the women with the loser buying drinks for the winners. The women (the Qoyas) lost to the men (the Inka) so we went inside and enjoyed the fermented corn drink called chicha--the regular and strawberry versions.



We then went to a great restaurant back in Urubamba for lunch where I ate alpaca but not guinea pig (cuy). The restaurant was called Allpamanka. After lunch we went to a local market to shop. After the market, most of the group went back to the hotel and while Marilyn, Bev, Sally, Roxsane, Yvette and I stayed behind to shop. You could tell they didn't get tourists here because there were none of the ubiquitous street vendors bothering us. But a 10-year-old boy named Alex became our guide through town. He led us to all the markets.

We saw this funeral procession go by the church on our way to the market:


At the market, I took a lot of clandestine pictures of the local women in traditional garb selling their wares on the street. After the market, we got some sodas and ice cream and sat in the park and watched the people go by. We then took motor rickshaws back to the hotel in Yucay.





I took a lot of pictures today. Great experiences.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 4 - October 22, 2009 - Machu Picchu

Itinerary: Today we embarked on an expedition to Machu Picchu. We rode aboard the Vistadome train through the lush Urubamba Valley passing along stunning scenery. We arrived at “The Lost City Of the Incas” rediscovered in 1911. The beauty of its location and the genius construction make Machu Picchu the jewel of all Inca settlements. To this day nobody can explain how the Incas managed to transport the huge blocks of limestone for the city’s construction onto the mountaintop. An expert guide led us through the ruins and shared the amazing story of Machu Picchu. We had some free time to further discover the mystical ruins and absorb the beauty of this enchanting site. Later, re-boarded the train and journeyed to magical Cuzco.

About Machu Picchu from Lonely Planet

For many visitors to Peru and even South America, a visit to the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu is the sweet cherry on the top of their trip. With its spectacular location, it’s the best-known archaeological site on the continent. This awe-inspiring ancient city was never revealed to the conquering Spaniards and was virtually forgotten until the early part of the 20th century. Despite this great tourist influx, the site manages to retain its air of grandeur and mystery, and is a must for all visitors to Peru.

Daily Journal

Weather: Perfect again. Clear, sunny and 75F. It rained just as we reached the summit of Machu Picchu and stopped an hour later as we departed.

I had a 5:30 am wake up call so I would not oversleep and delay the group for our train ride to Machu Picchu (Old Mountain). I was really sunburned from yesterday's tour so slathered on a lot of sunscreen today. As we were exiting the hotel by bus, I remembered I did not pick up my passport at the hotel desk. So the bus stopped and I made a run for the hotel reception. Then we were on our way. We had a deal that if anyone was late more than three times, that person would have to buy everyone a Pisco sour. So I had one demerit against me.

We arrived at the train station a few minutes later and boarded the Vistadome train for the 1-1/2 hour, 26-mile ride to Machu Picchu. The train moves very slowly. The railroad was commissioned in 1905 to connect the coca fields to the city. Construction began in 1907 and service started in 1924. The line was extended to Machu Picchu in 1931. The ride was very pleasant with lots of scenery--mountains, river, forests, Inca terraces and bridges, and quaint little towns.



We arrived at Machu Picchu at 9:15 am after the 2-hour ride. What's so great about Machu Picchu? Machu Picchu, also known as the Lost City of the Inca, is the most sacred of all Inca sites. It was discovered in 1911 but announced to the world in 1915 by Harvard University Professor, historian and discoverer Hiram Bingham. Actually, though, the locals knew of the 31-mile trail that led to it and the Spanish used some of the roads leading to it to conquer the Incas. The attraction of Machu Picchu lies in the superb architecture of the massive Inca stone structures against a backdrop of tall, towering sugar loaf mountains. Exactly when it was built is not known but likely the 1400s at the height of the Inca empire. Its purpose is also in question--citadel, estate of the Inca leader, goods transfer point. In any case, it was mysteriously abandoned and, therefore, never discovered by the Spanish and largely intact.









After Machu Picchu, we took the harrowing bus ride back down the mountain, had coffee at a local restaurant, and shopped the local market.


We then got back on the train for the 3-1/2 hour ride to Cuzco where we spent the next three days. We arrived at 7:30 pm. I just had room service and went to bed.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 5 - October 23, 2009 - Cuzco City Tour

Itinerary: We toured Cuzco, a vibrant town, dotted with archaeological sites. On a guided walking tour, we visited the main Inca and Colonial monuments. We saw the Plaza de Armas, the center of the Inca Empire, and the impressive 16th century cathedral, built on the ruins of the Inca Palace. In the old town, we viewed magnificently restored colonial buildings. There was an optional evening dinner complete with a colorful folklore show, which I skipped.



Daily Journal

Weather: Perfect again. Clear, sunny and 75F with another brief afternoon shower.

Our day started with a walking tour of Cuzco, once the capital of the Inca empire until it was conquered by Spanish conquistadors in 1533 at a time when the empire was weakened by civil war.

Our first stop were the ruins of an ancient Inca temple. The Incas came here in the 1400s from the Lake Titicaca area of Peru to the southwest. They conquered the primitive local tribe that lived here at the time and built one of their first temples on the site. In the background was the Temple of the Sun.


We stopped at Santa Ana church. It showed how the Spanish conquerors built their monasteries atop Inca walls.


We then passed by the former Inca palace, upon which the Spanish built a palace which is now the palace of the archbishop of Cuzco. The Spanish destroyed part of the wall and reconstructed it in a haphazard fashion after they realized they didn't have other stones to replace the originals.


We then stopped for pictures with a lady with an alpaca and a 2-week-old baby alpaca.


We then went around the back side of the palace and skirted the main artisan district of San Blas where we spent much of the afternoon.


We then went to the square with the Pre-Columbian Art Museum and the Capilla de San Antonio Abad.


We walked down some interesting, narrow streets until we reached the final stop on our tour, the Plaza de Armas.


We then reached the Plaza de Armas in the center of town. It's a large public square surrounded by historic colonial buildings such as the Catedral. We watched the people and a local school marching band.




By the way, the bottom two photos are my tour group and our leader Enrique and trainee Jose.


We then spent an hour touring the cathedral. The Catedral is baroque-style. It was built by the Spanish on the foundations of the palace of the Inca Wiachocha. Like many buildings built by the Spanish, they were built on top of Incan structures. The Catedral was started in 1550 and completed 94 years later. Many of the stones came from the nearby Inca fortress Sacsayhuaman, which we visited the next day.

The main attraction at the cathedral is the solid silver altar surrounded by 22-carat gold leaf display containing statues of the Virgin Mary, Jesus and various saints. The cathedral also houses the largest bell in South America. The cathedral was adorned with mirrors, which fascinated the Incans because it reflected the light of the sun, one of several Inca gods along with the moon and various animals.

We viewed a shrine of Joseph and the Christ child. Peruvians believe it is important for religion to show the entire family, not just Mary and Jesus. So Joseph was made the patron saint of married people in Peru. We laughed at portraits of Jesus dressed in a skirt, which was a sign of dignity and what Inca priests traditionally wore in the middle of the last millennium.

We viewed "The Last Supper," which was painted by a local artist who painted the face of Judas in red for betraying Christ, placed St. John on the right rather than left of Christ, and portrayed Jesus and the apostles eating local Cuzco food like fruit, ordinary bread and cuy (guinea pig).

Pictures are strictly forbidden and I could only find these of one of the altars in the cathedral and the last supper on the Internet. Guess I will just have to live with my memories.


After the tour a couple, James and Ann Marie from my tour group and I went next store to the Bagdad Cafe for lunch.


After that I went shopping in the artisan quarter next to the cathedral in the pouring rain. Eventually it stopped and I ran into two others from my tour group (Bev and Marilyn). We shopped some more then went back to the hotel.




In the evening, the group went to a folk show and I went out for dinner followed by drinks at a few local hot spots.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 6 - October 24, 2009 - Cusco & Saqsayhuaman

Itinerary: Although we had a day at leisure to explore Cuzco at our own pace, our Program Director organized a tour that included ALL of the places I was planning to visit on my own, including the amazing ruins of Sacsayhuaman and various museums in the town center.



Daily Journal

Weather: Perfect again. Clear, sunny and 75F with another brief afternoon shower.

I got up early to run over to the Plaza de Armas to get a photo of the Catedral and Jesuit Church like I had seen in a postcard, but the dawn sun came up right between the churches and I had to get my shot facing into the sun.


Until yesterday, I thought it was odd that Cuzco had rainbow flags flying everywhere. As it turns out, the rainbow flag is the symbol of Cuzco, not gay unity.


After breakfast, the group boarded a van and we headed out sightseeing. Our program director was nice enough to organize a tour today of all the places I had planned to do on my own--The Temple of the Sun, the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman and the Inka Museum.

Our first stop, Coricancha, or the Temple of the Sun, showcases how Inca and Colonial styles of architecture fused and evolved into the Cuzco of today. The Temple of the Sun was once the most important temple of the Incas. The site originally contained a number of stone rectangular buildings laid out to be the convergence of power spots. On the summer solstice, sun light from the opening in one of the rooms illuminated a specific niche in which sat the Inca chief. The rooms were decorated with elaborate gold ceremonial objects including a huge gold sun disk which was considered sacred.

After the Spanish Conquest, much of the structure was torn down and reassembled as the Church of Santa Domingo. A considerable amount of the original Inca structure was left intact and integrated into the church structure. Inside the church are some of buildings built by the Incas, which were used by the conquerors as their private quarters.

During Inca rule, Coricancha was covered with gold and silver sculptures representing llamas, corn and the sun. When the Spaniards conquered Cuzco, they stripped the gold from the temple walls and statues and melted it down. Legend has it that it took the Spaniards three months to cart all the gold from the temple.


One of the major attractions at the museum is Temple of Stars. It has earthquake-proof walls that have survived two 7.2 magnitude earthquakes due to an ingenious interlocking/leaning stone construction technique that the Incans took to their graves. At the time the Spanish invaded, the walls of this temple were completely coated in gold. At one time, there were other temples to Inca gods--moon, thunder, lightning and rainbow--but the Spanish destroyed them.


We then viewed a gold plaque showing the God of gods and others the Inca worshipped, including the sun, moon and stars.



After the Temple of the Sun, we drove a mile or two up into the mountains to the north of Cuzco to visit the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced "sexy woman").


Sacsayhuaman was originally a temple to celebrate Mother Earth and later a military fortress. It was built between 1380-1440. How the Incas hauled the huge limestone rocks from a quarry 11 miles away to this highest point in the city is still a mystery. The Spanish believed the devil was involved. 3,000 people worked 10 hours per day, 7 days a week for 60 years to build it. Most of the labor were volunteers, though some were slaves, either people from conquered tribes or low class Incas. 600 workers died during construction.

Sacsayhuaman is considered to be the second most important Inca monument after Machu Picchu. Following the fall of the Inca empire, the Spanish removed many stones to build the city of Cuzco below. All that remains are the outer walls, which represent about one-fifth of the original complex.

The carved stone walls fit so perfectly together that not even a sheet of paper can fit between them. There is no mortar and the stones often fit together in complex and irregular joints that would be a nightmare for a stonemason. One has to wonder who created these great stone edifices with such precision at a time when tools were relatively primitive.


Today, all that remains of Sacsayhuaman are 3 parallel walls in a zigzag shape like lightning. The three walls represent the snake, puma and condor. The walls are earthquake-proof due to rounded corners and no mortar--which causes the stones to dissipate energy and move together. We stopped in front of the biggest stone (130 tons) for a group photo.


We then climbed to the highest point of the complex for panoramic photos of the monument. You have to put these photos end to end, top to bottom, to envision the grand scale of what remains.


I then made a mad dash for the Christ Redeemer statue 1/2 a mile away and on top of another mountain for a photo before catching up to the group.


On the way out I posed for a picture in front of the Sacsaywuaman sign. See, the sign says I am a "sexy man."


We then headed over to the Museo Inka. Museo Inka is a reminder that other cultures thrived in the region before the Inca arrived. The museum contains an amazing collection of pre-Inca and Inca artifacts from the Indians that lived in Cuzco--mainly ceramics, textiles, metal ware and writings. The museum also contains 8 Inca mummies and a room dedicated to the coca leaf, which was used for religious and "medicinal" purposes. We have been greeted at every hotel with a bottomless cup of coca tea because it is believed to relieve altitude sickness.

Unfortunately, pictures are forbidden but I managed to get a few. The museum is well worth a visit.


After the tour I went back to the hotel to relax since the weather had turned rainy and I was all shopped out from yesterday's adventure.

In the late afternoon I went to the Plaza de Armas to watch people and take pictures of the locals going about their daily business.


This was the local beer I developed a taste for.


In the evening I went out to dinner with Marilyn, Bev, Sam and Cheryl. After that we headed back to the hotel to pack. We had an eight-hour drive to Puno/Lake Titicaca (stop laughing) through the Andes Mountains the following day.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 7 - October 25, 2009 - Drive Cusco to Puno, Andahuaylillas, La Raya & Lake Titicaca

Itinerary: We embarked on a thrilling journey to Puno. As we traversed the rugged snow-capped Andes, we enjoyed the breathtaking scenery and saw quaint local villages as well as herds of llama and alpaca. We visited the charming village of Andahuaylillas, with its renowned 17th-century church.



Daily Journal

Weather: Clear, sunny and 75F. Perfect for traversing the snow-capped Andes and taking in the jaw-dropping scenery.

We departed Cuzco at 8 am and headed southeast to Puno and Lake Titicaca a few hundred miles away. The drive took us up to 14,000 feet over the Andes Mountains. "Andes" is a derivation of the Quechuan word for copper.


Our first stop was the baroque-style Andahuaylillas Chapel, considered the Sistine Chapel of Peru. It was built in the 1600s to celebrate Saints Peter and Paul. The church walls are covered in frescoes. On the left side of the entrance is a fresco depicting the path to heaven. It is covered in thorns to emphasize that the path is not easy. On the right side of the entrance is a fresco depicting the path to hell. It is covered in flower petals to emphasize that the path is easy but your fate will be torture. After the chapel was built, oil paintings depicting the lives of Saints Peter and Paul were added. When they were taken down later for restoration, beautiful frescoes were found behind them. One painting was never put back so that visitors couls appreciate at least a part of the fresco. The ceiling of the chapel, while nothing like the Sistine Chapel, was nonetheless considered a masterpiece at the time. It has a diamond pattern painted in purples, green, red and blue. Behind the altar is an ornate, gold baroque wall with various statues.


We continued our journey coming to the town of Urcos where the Sunday outdoor market was in full swing. Most notable were the woman in their colorful, sequined, pancake-like hats and colorful clothing. Then it was back out into the countryside


Eventually we climbed to 14,000 feet, the highest point on the tour, La Raya. We reached the highest point around noon when we stopped at a local market for shopping, lunch, bio break and photos. I wandered down the hill for photos of the llama and alpaca herd down below. Usually llama and alpaca are sheered once every three years, but at this altitude they are sheered every year--great for business.







We bounced around on a very bumpy road for another three hours, driving through dusty towns and taking a bio-break or two.


We arrived in Puno around 3:30 pm. We came around a corner and got our first glimpse of Lake Titicaca. Nice. Our white, boat-shaped hotel was on an island in the Lake, which is good because the town of Puno is absolutely nothing to write home about.

We got to our hotel, The Libertador Resort, and checked in. All rooms have a view of the water. I had a great sunset view. When we checked in, we enjoyed a cup of Mate de Muna (Andean Mint Tea), which is good for not only cure high altitude sickness, but also settling the stomach.


I decided to stay in and eat at the hotel. Others taxied into town for dinner. I didn't get much sleep last night so I went to bed early. We have a big day out on the Lake tomorrow.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 8 - October 26, 2009 - Lake Titicaca, Floating Village & Isla Taquile

Itinerary: Lake Titicaca Boat Excursion. Situated on the border between Peru and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is South America’s largest and highest navigable lake. Today, we embarked on an unforgettable boat journey to explore the magnificent scenery and fascinating life on and around the tranquil lake. First, we visited the floating islands of the Uros Indians that still practice the old traditions of fishing, trapping birds and living on the lake plants. The totora reeds, which grow abundantly in the shallows of the lake, are used for their boats, houses and to build the very islands on which they live. This way of life began over 500 years ago when the Uros built the islands in an effort to isolate themselves from the Kollas and the Incas. Later, we proceeded by boat to Taquile Island, where the indigenous inhabitants are dedicated to agriculture and crafting of high quality textiles. We witnessed their customs, traditions and unique costumes.

About Lake Titicaca from Lonely Planet

Titicaca is the cradle for Peru’s ancient civilizations. Settled life began here in 200 BC with the Pukara culture, which erected huge pyramids and monuments. A millennium later, the influential Tiahuanaco culture spread into Bolivia. Warlike tribes such as the Collas and Aymaras arose shortly thereafter, only to be violently shoved aside by the Inca empire. Hot on the heels of the Inca warriors were Spanish conquistadors, who came lusting for mineral riches to be wrested from the bowels of the earth.
Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake with passenger boat services, and South America’s largest lake – over 170km in length and 60km in breadth. According to legend, this is where the first Inca Manco Capac, son of the sun god Inti, emerged. At this altitude, temperatures average less than 15°C year-round. But luminescent sunlight suffuses the highland altiplano and the lake’s deep waters. The earthy tones of the scenery are reflected in the crumbling colonial churches and ancient funerary towers scattered around the lakeshore. As the air is unusually clear, horizons seem limitless.

Daily Journal

Weather: Clear, sunny and 75F. Perfect for a day long cruise of Lake Titicaca.

I finally got a decent night sleep. I think the high altitude has had some effect. Ocassionally I find myself out of breath and some dizziness even when I exert myself a little. When I woke up in the morning, the skies were clear. Yesterday it rained all day here we were told.

After breakfast, we got an early start so that we could spend as much quality time on the lake as possible. The objective was to see as much as possible in case it clouded up and started raining like it did everyday so far this week. That happened, but not until we had just arrived back at the dock near our hotel.

We met our guide Charo at 7 am, then walked down to the dock and boarded our boat, the Raymi. The lake was placid and the skies clear. We set out across the lake to visit the floating islands of the Uros Indians.




Along the way to the floating island, we learned a bit more about Lake Titicaca. Titicaca gets its name from the shape of the lake, which looks like a puma. Titi means puma and Caca means rock. There is a northern part of the lake that looks like a rabbit, but the lower portion looks like a puma. 58% of the lake is in Peru. 42% is in Bolivia. The water in the lake is not clean in all places and the fish are dying. Fish farms have sprouted up to build up the stocks and provide fish for eating. The native fish is the karachi. The lake is brackish, partly salt, partly fresh water. There are very large frogs--16 inches. The lake is low now. But every 12 years they get a lot of rain and the lake level rises again. They expect rain again in a few years.

After going down a long canal, we came upon the floating village inhabited by the Uros Indians. There are 2,500 of them living on a number of barge-like platforms made entirely of reeds. The last pure Uros Indian died in 1948 so the race is in decline. Now they are a mix of Uros and Aymara. We were warmly greeted by the inhabitants of a small village called Tatainti. As I stepped off the boat, I could feel the soggy reeds under my feet.



We strolled across the little village on which 8 families live and listened eagerly to a lecture on what life is like living on a floating island. We were told how the floating village was constructed. They take 3' thick sections of reed roots, and put a thick bed reeds on top of it. Then they anchor the island to the lake bed. If one family on the island doesn't do their share of work to maintain the island, they literally take out a big saw and cut their section of the island off the main island and push it away. Then they talked about their clothes. They wear very bright clothes and the women all have braids. The kids go to school on land. They have to row 1/2 an hour to the dock, then take a van to school.

People live together before marriage and marriage is for life, though there are ocassional divorces. If you have a child before marriage, you are obligated to get married. The typical ceremony lasts 3 days and then the couple goes everywhere together for a month so people know they are married.

Then our group of 11 introduced ourselves--name, home, marital status, children, etc. I now have a new wife (20 years old) and will get the biggest hut on the island if I marry her. Our guide said she told another single girl next to her in Quechean tongue that I was her "rooster." Little did she know that she was old enough to be my daughter.

We then went into one of the houses to see how people lived. They have no bathrooms. Those are on another island along with fresh water. They use soft reeds for toilet paper. It takes 8 minutes to row to the toilet island. The girl with eyes on me dressed me up in local Uros clothes. I got a shirt with a heart on the breast and a hat with large pom poms indicating I was single.


We then went shopping and then for a boat ride to see other floating islands. As we departed Tatainti, the local women sang to us. At the end they shouted, "Hasta la vista, baby!" My future wife and another young girl rowed our reed boat amongst the floating islands for 30 minutes. My future wife said I "rocked her floor" on the way off the row boat. Guess I'll have to call her sometime. They actually have a solar panel in each village to generate power for television, so they are not quite as isolated as one might think. And one woman's cell phone rang during our lecture.



We then transferred back to our boat and continued 40 minutes to the next island, Taquile.


We arrived at 11:30 am and began a long hike up the mountain. Although we beat most of the other boats here, they beat us up the mountain. We made several stops on the way up to learn about life on the island.


The people here are mostly farmers. They carry a lot on their backs. A llama can carry 60 pounds, a woman carry 160 pounds, a man even more--161 pounds our guide joked. They eat a lot of quinoa for energy.


There are no police on the island because the community is so tight. They have a saying on the island: Don't steal, don't be lazy, don't lie. Good words to live by.

We hiked up the mountain further and stopped for lunch. The choice was fresh salmon or an omelet. I had salmon. They also served this pita-like bread with a hot onion/pepper sauce and soup loaded with quinoa.

After lunch, we got a lecture on local traditions and customs. All the men know how to sew and knit while all the women know how to weave. One island woman was wearing 6 skirts, which were made by her husband. The more skirts she wears, the more her husband loves her.

Wives-to-be often give their husbands a belt woven of wool and her hair so that she can give him the best she has to offer. All the boys and men wear hats. A man wearing a pom pom cap with two colors, pom pom on right, means he is single and looking for a wife. Pom pom in back means single, but not looking. Boys have to learn to knit them. The knit is very tight. When he meets a girl's parents for approval, they fill it up with water, and if it leaks water too soon, it means the man is probably not suitable since he hasn't learned to knit a tight weave. A man with single color hat is married. A man wearing a fedora-like hat is an island official of some sort.


We then had a dance demonstration with audience participation. I had two left feet as you can see.


Then our guide and I ran up to the top of the island for some photos while the rest of the group headed down the mountain to the boat. It was a nice view from the top of the island.


Then the guide and I ran down the hill, caught up to the group, boarded the boat, and headed 2-1/2 hours back to Puno. It started to rain as we were arriving back at our hotel at 5 pm. We were lucky with the weather again. I got a little sunburn again.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 9 - October 27, 2009 - Puno, Sillustani & Flight to Lima

Itinerary: In the morning, we visited the mysterious Chullpas at Sillustani. These unique and well preserved burial towers were built by the Kollas, a tribe that dominated the Titicaca Region before the arrival of the Incas. Each tower contained the remains of a Kolla nobility accompanied by their treasures. In the afternoon, we boarded a short flight to Lima, Peru’s diverse capital.

About Sillustani from Fodors

High on a hauntingly beautiful peninsula in Lake Umayo is the necropolis of Sillustani. Twenty-eight stone burial towers represent a city of the dead that both predated and coincided with the Inca empire. The proper name for a tower is ayawasi (home of the dead), but they're generally referred to as chullpas, which are actually the shrouds used to cover the mummies inside. This was the land of the Aymará-speaking Colla people, and the precision of their masonry rivals that of the Inca. Sillustani's mystique is heightened by the view it provides over Lake Umayo and its mesa-shape island, El Sombrero, as well as by the utter silence that prevails, broken only by the wind over the water and the cries of lake birds.

Most of the chullpas date from the 14th and 15th centuries, but some were erected as early as AD 900. The tallest, known as the Lizard because of a carving on one of its massive stones, has a circumference of 28 feet. An unusual architectural aspect of the chullpas is that the circumference is smaller at the bottom than the top. To fully appreciate Sillustani, it's necessary to make the long climb to the top; fortunately, the steps are wide and it's an easy climb. Some school children will put on dances; if you take photos of mothers, children, and pet alpacas, a donation of a couple of soles will be appreciated.

Daily Journal

Weather: Another beautiful mid-Spring day in southeast Peru --clear, sunny and 75F.

It was our last day in Puno and Lake Titicaca. We had a half day of sightseeing in Puno, then went to Juliaca to catch our flight to Lima. It was nice to get to lower altitude on the coast in Lima. I have had an on-and-off-again altitude-induced headache for two days.

Today we went to a scenic overlook to get pictures of Puno. Then we went to a home of a local Kolla indian family, then the Chullpas (funerary towers) of the ancient Kollas in Sillulstani.

We drove through Puno on our way out of town. Dismal. The big businesses here are tourism, industry and smuggling to Bolivia. The people are mostly Aymaran. Water to homes only runs 4 hours a day (4-8 am). Many people live in unfinished houses so they pay lower taxes.


We stopped at the scenic overlook for pictures. We took pictures of the city of Puno and the giant snake and anatomically-correct puma statues.


We then stopped at the home of a local Kolla family. They lived in a stone wall enclosed compound with a number of buildings made of mud or clay with thatched roofs.


We admired their alpacas, pigs, guinea pigs, steers and roosters before sampling some quinua bread.


They were cooking outside in a clay hearth using cow dung for fuel.


We then drove a short distance to Sillustani at 13,834 feet. 30,000 Kolla indians lived here when the Inca conquered them. There was once 120 burial towers. The Inca were impressed with the Kolla's architectual and engineering abilities. When the Spanish conquered the Inca they thought it was paganism and destroyed many towers. Inside of the towers was pottery filled with gold and other offerings. The Spanish ignored the pottery and destroyed the towers and so the gold was left intact.


The Kollas had great respect for life and believed even poor people could become gods. They did not believe in burying people because the ground was believed to be where evil spirits dwelled. Before burial, ligaments were cut so the body could be placed in a fetal position within the tower like in the womb before birth.


The Kollas started with simple honeycomb towers and evolved to more complex towers. The Kollas made a mistake when building the first complex tower. They used similar sized and shaped stones that vibrated with the same frequency during an earthquake and would thus cause the tower to collapse if the ground shook hard enough. When the conquering Inca saw this, they destroyed one tower before an earthquake could.


We walked a little further till we came to a scenic overlook. It looked out over a vast lake Umayo from a high cliff. In the middle was an island with a mesa on top.


We then descended the mountain top and headed for the bus and the airport in Juliaca.


We arrived at the airport in Juliaca around 2 pm and said goodbye to our tour director Enrique. He was an excellent guide. We also said goodbye to our local guide Charo, a woman I thought kind of looked like Michael Jackson. We checked in and made our way to the gate. The plane arrived at 3:30 pm. We were supposed to leave at 3:45 but we didn't get off till about 4:15 pm.



We made a stop 30 minutes away in Arequipa before heading to Lima. We passed a huge volcano on our way into Arequipa.


We took off from Arequipa at 5:15 pm and arrived in Lima at 6:40 pm. I had to switch to another seat up front during our brief layover in Arequipa and witnessed some serious shoving as people from the back of the plane tried to push their way past those up front to get off.

By 7:15 pm, we had collected our bags and headed to the arrival hall en masse to meet our Program Director for the next day or so. Her name was Kika. We headed to the hotel in the fashionable Miraflores area in the southwest part of the Lima. We had rush hour traffic the whole way.

Kika told us a little about Lima on our way to the hotel. Lima is the capital of Peru with 7.5 million people in the metro area out 28 million people in all of Peru. We arrived in Callao, the port area of Lima where the Spaniards shipped gold and silver to Spain. There are 43 suburbs in Lima. Lima is very modern and reminded me a lot of a big US city.

Lima was a center of the Inca empire which stretched to north to Ecuador, east to Argentina and and south to Bolivia. When the Spanish conquered the Inca, they moved the capital from Cuzco to Lima. The city really grew in the 60s and 70s. Up until then there were a lot of farms in the area.

We got to our hotel around 8:15 pm and checked. Tomorrow is a city tour of Lima and flight back to the US late in the evening.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 10 - October 28, 2009 – Lima

Itinerary: We enjoyed a guided morning tour of both colonial and modern Lima, founded in 1535 and later dominated by the Inca nation. We saw the historical center and the San Francisco Church, as well as Plaza de Armas and the Government Palace. We then saw the fashionable districts of San Isidro and Miraflores with their beautiful parks and elegant residences.

About Lima from Lonely Planet

Millions of inhabitants crowd into Peru’s frenetic capital, giving it an edge few other South American cities have. Its shantytowns look like the developing world, yet the business districts and promenades of its seaside suburbs are Europe away from home. Overpopulation problems have earned this fast-moving metropolis a reputation as a polluted, frenetic and dangerous place. Yet in no time it can transport you from crumbling pre-Inca pyramids and the waning splendor of Spanish colonial architecture to glitzy, ultramodern shopping malls and many of the country’s best museums. You can feast on fresh seafood by the ocean, go paragliding off the cliffs in Miraflores and groove all night in bohemian Barranco’s bars and clubs. Lima’s climate can be a challenge. Blanketed in a melancholy garúa (coastal fog, mist or drizzle) from April to December, the city plays with the senses, but when summer comes, the sun blazes and limeños head in droves for the Pacific coast beaches.

Lima was founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro and was used as the headquarters of the Spanish conquistadors, ideally located because it close to the natural port at Callao. Lima soon became the commercial and administrative center of the Spanish empire in South America, bringing a period of prosperity to the city until an earthquake in 1746 destroyed all but 20 houses. Following this devastation the opportunity was taken to elaborately rebuild the city. Today's wide streets, huge plazas and old houses with ornately carved balconies are a legacy of this period.

Lima continued to prosper over the 19th century, but the good times didn't last. During the latter half of the 20th century Lima has suffered its share of problems. Political and economic instability brought rise to increased poverty throughout Peru. Migrants from the countryside flocked to Lima looking for work, making their homes in sprawling self-built shanty towns that surround the historic center, and occupying the vacant desert sands. These shanty towns now contain nearly half of Lima's estimated 10 million inhabitants. Decades of hard work have turned some of these areas into pleasant districts, while others still remain incredibly poor without electricity or proper water or sanitary arrangements.

The early 1990's saw a low point in Lima's history, as thousands of campesinos migrated to Lima fleeing the terrorist activities of the countryside and jungle, only to be caught up in a bombing campaign in the city. At this point it would have been hard to say anything positive about Lima. But Lima's fortunes are on the rise and the historic centre is being carefully restored, museums built, parks and gardens planted, the streets cleaned, police vigilance increased and terrorist activity eradicated. The city now has a cosmopolitan atmosphere and districts such as Miraflores and Barranco have become cultural centres filled with excellent bars and restaurants, and fashionable shops, making it not just a gateway into Peru but a destination in itself, if only for a couple of days.

Daily Journal

Weather: 74F and partly cloudy. Not a bad day for sightseeing in Lima.

Well, it was our last day in Peru. The time really flew. I just arrived 8 days ago and we are leaving very early tomorrow morning, in like, just after midnight, for the return flight to Miami. I didn't sleep very well last night so am looking forward to catching up on the way home and tomorrow night after I get home.

Our tour of Lima started at 9 am. We drove through heavy rush hour traffic through the most beautiful suburbs of Lima--Miraflores and San Isidro. Lima is very spread out with 43 suburbs. Eight months a year the city is overcast due to high humidity along the coast line. Daytime temperatures in the winter reach the low 60s. In the summer, temperatures reach the mid-70s. It is very temperate because Lima is close to the equator. We did a lot of drive-by sightseeing in Mirafloras and San Isidro. We admired the elegant homes from the 1930s. In San Isidro, we saw the oldest olive groves in South America, which Pizarro planted 400 years ago.


Today is the anniversary of the 1746 earthquake and tsunami. Today there is a parade called Procession of the Lord of Earthquakes to commemorate the devastation of the event. Women wear purple dresses and men wear purple capes.

After 45 minutes, we reached the downtown area and the Plaza de Armas in Colonial Lima. We admired the old buildings around the Plaza, which are now government offices.



We then went for a tour of the Cathedral, which was built in 1753. One room contains the tomb of Francisco Pizarro.



Then we walked a few blocks away to the San Francisco Monastery, the finest example of Lima Baroque architecture in Peru and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. No picture were allowed. It was beautiful inside. The best part for me was the crypt for commoners underneath the monastery. It contained open cribs full of bones. At least 25,000 people were buried here. From below you look up through a grate in the floor and see people up in the church. I wanted to reach up and grab someone's ankle.




After the monastery, we got back on our bus and drove along the coastline back to our hotel in Miraflores.



I had a couple of hours to kill so I walked a few blocks over to Larco Street and shopped for a little while. Then I went back to the hotel, took a shower, packed my bags and went out with the rest of the group for our farewell dinner.

After dinner, we proceeded directly to the airport to catch our flight to Miami. The 6-hour flight left around midnight. Guess vacation is over.

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Peru Vacation Journal - Day 11 - October 29, 2009 – Lima to USA

Itinerary: I boarded my return flight to the US and my memorable journey ended with a mid-afternoon arrival back home in the USA.



Daily Journal

The trip to Peru ended last night with a farewell dinner at a nice restaurant in the bohemian Barranco district of Lima. The group feasted on a variety of Peruvian-style appetizers and entrees. Then we headed to the airport in Callao for the 6-hour flight to Miami.

Before the flight even took off at 12:30 am, I had pressed my earplugs, eye mask, neck pillow and valium into service. I slept the entire way home. We arrived in Miami at 6:45 Eastern.

I discovered an earlier flight to Milwaukee than my original flight. It got me home 3 hours earlier at 2:15 pm.

Time to start planning the next trip!

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