Thursday, August 23, 2012

Chris Trost's 2010 Greece Adventure

Athens – Greek Isles – Mycenae – Olympia- Meteora – Delphi
October 29 – November 9, 2010

Assorted Trip Photos



Flag of Greece






Introduction to Greece from Fodor's Travel Guide

The sight greets you time and again in Greece—a line of solid, sun-bleached masonry silhouetted against a clear blue sky.  A land where temples, theaters, statues, a stray Doric column or two, the fragment of a Corinthian capital: these traces of the ancients are thick on the ground.  The Greek countryside itself remains a stunning presence, dotted with cypress groves, vineyards, and olive trees; carved into gentle bays or dramatic coves bordered with startling white sand; or articulated into rolling hills and rugged mountain ranges that plunge into the sea.

Table of Contents

Post-Trip Summary


Greece was as wonderful as I had expected.  I spent 12 days there at the end of the tourist season in November 2010 visiting its legendary islands and ancient cities.  I experienced intriguing history, interesting sights, amazing scenery, stellar weather, friendly people, great food, and comfortable accommodations.  
Where is Greece?  Greece is located in Southern Europe.  Greece has land borders on the north with Albania, Macedonia and Bulgaria, and a land border with Turkey to the east. The Aegean Sea lies to the east of mainland Greece, the Ionian Sea to the west, and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.   Greece has the 11th longest coastline in the world at 8,498 miles, and approximately 1,400 islands, of which 227 are inhabited. 
How Long Was Your Trip?  When Did You Go?  Where Did You Go?
My trip took place from October 29 to November 9, 2010, at total of 12 days.  We covered several thousand miles on both land and sea.
·         I spent 2-1/2 days getting back and forth from my home in Milwaukee to Greece.
·         I spent 1-1/2 days in Athens touring ancient sites like the Acropolis, the New Acropolis Museum and the Olympic Stadium. 
·         I spent another 4 days on a beautiful ship at sea making stops at the islands of Mykonos, Patmos, Rhodes, Crete and Santorini
·         I then got off the ship and spent 4 days traveling by motor coach to the ancient cities of Mycenae, Olympia, Meteora and Delphi before returning to Athens for the journey back to the US.
The only problem with the tour was the shortness of the days.  Our ship arrived at the islands of Mykonos and Santorini in the late afternoon and we didn’t have much time to explore before it got dark.  But they were still quite enjoyable.
Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company?  I traveled with Gate1 Travel, the same company I used for my Thailand & Cambodia trip in 2007 and my Chile, Argentina & Brazil trip in January 2009.   I thought the itinerary hit all the major stops and was nicely paced.  There was ample leisure time to venture out on my own. 

My relatively-small tour group consisted of 24 people from all parts of the US:  New York, Pennsylvania, Florida, Mississippi, Indiana, Missouri, Wisconsin, Texas and Colorado.  We made good friends with a retired couple from Colorado, Bruce and Raye Silverman.  There was also a couple from St. Louis with the same last name as me, Walter and Gay Trost.  We were not related. We had three program directors:  Damos in Athens, Panos on the ship, and Vicky for the land portion of the tour.  Panos and Vicky were excellent.
With Whom Did You Travel?  I travelled on the tour with my friend Dave Marlo from St. Louis.  I met Dave while on tour in Thailand back in January 2007.  Since then, we have traveled together several times.  Most tours have a roommate finder service for those wishing to forgo the single supplement, but it’s always nicer to travel with someone you know.
How Did You Get There and Back?  I flew from Milwaukee to Newark, New Jersey (2 hours), and then on to Athens (about 9-1/2 hours), with a 5-hour layover in Newark.  On the way home, I flew from Athens to Munich (about 2-1/2 hours), then Munich to Chicago (9-3/4 hours), then Chicago to Milwaukee (45 minutes), with 2-hour layovers in Munich and Chicago.  I flew a total of 22,334 miles round trip.
Where Did You Stay?   We stayed in a number of 2- and 3-star tourist class hotels in Athens, Olympia and Meteora, and a 2-star cruise ship called the Louis Cristal.
Most of our hotels were situated right in or near the heart of town.  They were generally modern, clean and comfortable.  Each offered American and Continental breakfast, which were generally quite good, and in many cases, a buffet dinner featuring traditional Greek fare, which was always good. 
Our ship was superb.  Our cabin was small, but comfortable and we ate like kings.  There were also bars and lounge entertainment to keep us occupied when we weren’t strolling the decks or soaking up the sun. 
What Was the Food Like? We found pretty much any type of food we wanted.  The meals were pretty basic:  lamb, beef, pork chicken, potatoes, vegetables, fruits and desserts.
How Were the People? The locals were pretty friendly. We had no problems whatsoever.  There was a language barrier however since few people spoke English.  Given the ongoing economic problems, we saw a lot of homeless and unemployed people, and a few protests in Athens against government reforms. 
Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Generally yes because we were either situated in the heart of town within walking distance to everything, or shuttled around by motor coach to each of our destinations.
What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like? We dealt with one currency, the Euro.  Given the weakness of the dollar relative to the Euro, everything seemed expensive.  The shore sightseeing excursions offered through the ship were particularly expensive.  We took advantage of cheaper options suggested by our tour guide whenever possible. 
Net-Net, What Did This Whole Trip Cost You? This was one of the least expensive trips I ever took--$3,100 in total, or about $260 per day.  The base trip cost $2,700 with trip insurance and included most everything like roundtrip airfare from Milwaukee to Athens, lodging, meals, ground transportation and sightseeing.  I only spent another $600 once I got to Greece, which was mostly bar tabs, optional sightseeing excursions, tips and souvenirs.  On past tours, total spending has often been twice the base price of the tour, but not in this case.  The trip was a good value.

How was the Weather?  We traveled in the late fall.  The days were always sunny and warm (mostly in the 70s F), but not exactly beach weather. 
Any Parting Comments?  Yes. Travel is an adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never come back the same person. And for that, I have a lot to be thankful for.
Following is a day-by-day account of my trip. Each day starts with an overview of what we did, followed by my daily journal. You can just read on or go back to the Table of Contents above and jump to a specific day or topic of interest. Enjoy!

Day  1 - Friday, October 29, 2010 – Depart US for Greece


Itinerary:  I traveled from Milwaukee to Newark, New Jersey, then caught an overnight flight to Athens, Greece. 

Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and cool (60s F)
I woke up at 5:30 AM, ate breakfast, showered, dressed and headed to the bus stop in Milwaukee at 6:15 AM.  I made it to the bus stop by 6:30 AM with a minute to spare and was at the airport by 7:05 AM.  Check-in took seconds and I was at my gate with 2 hours to spare.  My flight to Newark departed and arrived on time and was uneventful except for some choppy air during landing.  I spent the next few hours reading my guide book, planning my free time activities, and walking around the airport.  I boarded my Continental 767 at 5:40 PM and was airborne by 6:15 PM for the 9-hour flight to Athens.  My travel friend, Dave Marlo called from JFK as I was boarding to say his flight to Athens was canceled and that he was taking a different flight that arrived about the same time. 

After dinner, and somewhere over New Foundland, I donned my eye mask and earplugs and tried to sleep.  Athens is 8 hours ahead of Milwaukee, so I wanted to get some sleep so I wouldn’t be dragging the next day.  I managed a few hours of sleep but tossed and turned a lot because my seat did not recline very far due to the bulkhead behind it.

Day  2 – Saturday, October 30, 2010 – Athens


Itinerary:  I arrived late morning in Athens, checked into my hotel, and met up with my travel friend, Dave Marlo.  We spent the rest of the day exploring Athens on our own.

About Athens from Fodor's Travel Guide
It's no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and cool (60s F).   
I awoke to breakfast on the plane at 8 AM Athens time somewhere over southern Italy with less than 2 hours left in the flight.  There were thick clouds below so I couldn’t see the ground. 
I landed on time at 9:50 AM Athens time.  By 11 AM, five of us from the tour were headed to our downtown hotel in a van.  I noticed a bridge that was clearly a Santiago Calatrava creation like the art museum in Milwaukee, of which our tour guide was familiar.  Our route from the airport to downtown took us through tidy urban neighborhoods.  Along the way, we passed the American embassy and learned that 5.5 million people lived in Athens.  As we approached downtown, I could see the Acropolis perched upon a hill overlooking the city.  It was beautiful. 
We arrived at the Stanley Hotel at noon.  Dave Marlo had not yet arrived.  I showered and put on clean clothes.  Dave arrived around 12:30 PM, cleaned up, and then we went on a marathon walking tour of Athens that was recommended by our program director Damos.
We rode the subway from Metaxourghio Station to Syntagma Station and started our long walk.  We started with swanky Ermou Street enjoying people watching and the bustling flea markets on Monastiraki (“Constitution”) Square and Adrianu where the principle tourist markets are located.  We then headed south through a nearby park where remnants of ancient Greece laid in ruins as far as the eye could see along a path that led to the Acropolis.  We took in the Ancient Agora and the Stoa of Attalus
Then we walked the Dion Aeropagitou to the end until we reached the Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch. 
We then walked north along Filellinon Street to the Hard Rock Café where we enjoyed appetizers and Greek beers.  I added another HRC T-shirt to my collection.  From the HRC we walked all the way back to our hotel along Panepistiou and Konstatinou Streets. 
Around 7 PM, we went to a hotel meeting room for orientation with our program director and to meet the others in our group.  We enjoyed appetizers and ouzo with orange juice.  We adjourned to the rooftop restaurant of our hotel where we enjoyed a nice meal and the views of the illuminated Acropolis.  By 10 PM I was ready for bed.  Fortunately, Greece went off daylight savings overnight and we gained an extra hour of much needed sleep.

Day  3 – Sunday, October 31, 2010 – Athens

 

Itinerary:  In the morning, we did more touring of Athens on our own, including a visit to the ancient Olympic Stadium to watch the finish of the Athens Marathon, then met our group in the afternoon for an escorted tour of Athens starting with panoramic views of Panathenian Stadium, the Presidential Residence, the ruins of the Temple of Zeus, and Hadrian's Arch.  This was followed by a visit to the Acropolis, the ancient architectural masterpiece built during the Golden Age of Athens, and a visit to the new Acropolis Museum, the striking modern building at the base of the monument where many of original statues from the Acropolis are now displayed. 

About the Acropolis from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The great emblem of classical Greece has loomed above Athens (whose harbor of Piraeus is gateway to all the Greek Islands) for 2,500 years. Even from afar, the sight of the Parthenon—the great marble temple that the 5th century BCE statesmen Pericles conceived to crown the site—stirs strong feelings about the achievements and failings of Western Civilization.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and cool (60s F).  
After falling asleep at 9:00 PM, I awoke at midnight, tossed and turned for an hour, then slept until almost 6:00 AM.  After updating my journal, we went to breakfast in our hotel.  It was a nice spread--American and European breakfasts.  After breakfast, we walked to Monastiraki (“Constitution”) Square to see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the changing of the guard.  We then strolled through the National Gardens and hung out at the ancient Olympic Stadium (Panathenian Stadium) where we witnessed the finish of the 26th Athens Marathon.

Around noon, we walked back to our hotel to meet our group for the 1:00 PM guided tour of Athens, The Acropolis and the new Acropolis Museum.  The Acropolis was very interesting and the view of surrounding Athens from the high perch breathtaking. 

After the Acropolis, we went to the new Acropolis Museum at the base of Acropolis Hill.  It had glass floors above excavated ruins and room after room of ancient artifacts discovered at the Acropolis.
After the tour, we went back to our hotel to freshen up and then out to a nearby pizza restaurant for a delicious dinner and a couple of Mythos beers.  Then it was back to the hotel for a good night's rest.

Day  4 – Monday, November 1, 2010 – Athens to Mykonos

 

Itinerary:  After breakfast, we transferred to the Athens port and set sail for the 109-mile trip to the resort isle of Mykonos.  Upon arrival, we spent several hours exploring Mykonos Town.

About the Isle of Mykonos from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Backpackers and jet-setters alike share the beautiful beaches and the Dionysian nightlife—this island is not called the St. Tropez of the Aegean without reason—but the old ways of life continue undisturbed in fishing ports and along mazelike town streets. Not only are the hotels and cafés picture-perfect, the famous windmills actually seem to be posing for your camera.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and cool (60s F). 
After a fitful night of sleep, I awoke at 6:00 AM and had breakfast in the hotel restaurant.  Afterwards, we met our guide Damos and drove by bus to the Athens port where we boarded our ship for the isle of Mykonos.  We set sail under perfect weather conditions around 11:00 AM and arrived in Mykonos around 4:00 PM. 

Following the fire drill and orientation with our new program director, Panos, we just sat back and relaxed.  We ate, drank, met new friends, strolled the decks, admired the views, and watched onboard entertainment.  The ship had several restaurants, bars, casinos and other places to hang out. 
Around 5 PM, our guide Panos led us on a tour of Mykonos Town.  It was already dark, so we didn’t get the greatest pictures of the white buildings and sand beaches, but we did enjoy the narrow, cobblestone streets and shopping. 
After 2 hours, we went back to the shuttle bus and returned to the ship for a scrumptious dinner.  We dined with Bruce and Raye from Colorado, who were also part of our tour.  We took a short walk around the ship after dinner and then went to bed around 10:30 PM.  The ship set sail shortly thereafter for our overnight cruise to Kusadasi, Turkey, where we would spend a large portion of the next day.  Our cabin was on a lower deck so the rumbling of the engines lulled me to sleep.

Day  5 – Tuesday, November 2, 2010 – Mykonos to Kusadasi, Turkey & Patmos

 

Itinerary:  Morning at leisure in Kusadasi, Turkey.  48-mile sail to the isle of Patmos and several hours of touring, followed by an overnight sail to the isle of Rhodes.  In Turkey, I explored the town of Kusadasi and Dave took the optional tour to nearby Ephesus.  In Patmos, we toured the Monastery of the Apocalypse where St. John wrote the last chapter of the Bible, the Book of Revelation.

About Kusadasi, Turkey from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Kusadasi long ago lost its local charm to invasive, sterile buildings and overpopulation, and the huge yacht marina, the largest in the region, has only exacerbated the situation. Kusadasi is also a port for cruise ships. So, what was a small fishing village up until the 1970s is now a sprawling, hyperactive town packed with curio shops and a year-round population of around 60,000, which swells several times over in summer with the influx of tourists and Turks with vacation homes.
About Isle of Patmos from Fodor’s Travel Guide
For better or worse, it can be difficult to reach Patmos—for many travelers, this lack of access is definitely for the better, since the island retains the air of an unspoiled retreat. Rocky and barren, the small, 34-square-km (21-square-mi) island lies beyond the islands of Kalymnos and Leros, northwest of Kos. Here on a hillside is the Monastery of the Apocalypse, which enshrines the cave where St. John received the Revelation in AD 95. Scattered evidence of Mycenaean presence remains on Patmos, and walls of the classical period indicate the existence of a town near Skala. Most of the island's approximately 2,800 people live in three villages: Skala, medieval Chora, and the small rural settlement of Kambos. The island is popular among the faithful making pilgrimages to the monastery as well as with vacationing Athenians and a wealthy international set who have bought homes in Chora. Administrators have carefully contained development, and as a result, Patmos retains its charm and natural beauty—even in the busy month of August.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and warm (70s F). 
Dave got up early at 9:30 AM for the ½-day tour of Ephesus, Turkey.  We saw this in depth in October 2007 when we visited Turkey.  I saw no reason to see it again so slept in.  I overslept so had a quick breakfast and headed out at 9:00 AM to explore the Turkish town of Kusadasi where we moored.  I walked through the narrow streets of town and up the mountain towering over the city to photograph a statue of Ataturk and admire the views.  As I passed through the bazaar, I got hit up left and right by the merchants on both sides hawking their wares. 
Eventually the shops gave way to an interesting residential area with funky colored homes, stray cats, laundry hanging out, and garbage strewn about.  To keep a stranger like me from roaming aimlessly through the neighborhood, some guys on the street told me certain roads were “closed.”  I ignored them and kept walking where I wanted to. 
Once I got to the top of the mountain, I took some shots of the Ataturk statue on top and panoramic shots of the harbor below. 
I then walked back to town visiting a mosque and several shops in the back streets along the harbor.  I also walked along the harbor front and beach and took pictures of the boats in the marina, the fishermen mending their nets, and cats eating scraps of fish that were thrown to them by the men cleaning fish. 
I arrived back at the ship at 10:45 AM.  Dave arrived back from the Ephesus tour shortly thereafter and our ship left Kusadasi for the 48-mile journey to the isle of Patmos at 11:30 AM.  Along the way, we ate and drank, and ate and drank some more. 
We arrived in Patmos a half hour ahead of schedule at 3:30 PM.
Instead of the expensive $65 tour to the Monastery of St. John and the Monastery of the Apocalypse (“The Grottos”), we opted for the $2 bus ride 2-1/2 miles up the mountain to the Monastery of St. John, and then walked ½ way down from there to the Monastery of the Apocalypse, and then all the way back down into town.
I had my guide book with me so I was able to tell the rest of the group what we were seeing.  The Monastery of the Apocalypse is where St. John wrote the last chapter of the Bible, the Book of Revelation.  He also died here at the age of 92.  There is a shrine in the corner of the room where he was found dead, and gold leaf on the wall marking the spot where his head rested.  Masses are still conducted in the Monastery. 
After touring, we headed down the long, steep hill back to town where we stopped at the Igloo Internet Café for a few beers and to catch up on email.  After that, we headed back to the ship for dinner, then met Lynn, Lynn and Kathy from our group in the lounge for a nightcap.  The ship set sail for the 112 mile overnight trip to the isle of Rhodes and it was off to bed. 

 Day  6 – Wednesday, November 3, 2010 – Patmos to Rhodes


Our Itinerary: We enjoyed a full day on the island of Rhodes, the largest island of the Dodecanese archipelago.  In the morning, we took a tour of the Mount Philerimos Monastery.  We then explored the island's medieval Old Town, preserved in and around the walls of a Venetian castle built by the 14th century Knights of St. John.


About Isle of Rhodes from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The fourth-largest Greek island and, along with Sicily and Cyprus, one of the great islands of the Mediterranean, Rhodes  was long considered a bridge between Europe and the East. Today, its diversity ensures it remains a polestar of tourism as well.  Rhodes Town brings together fascinating artifacts, medieval architecture, an active nightlife, and is reputedly the sunniest spot in all Europe. And though some of the shore is beset by vast resort hotels and holiday villages, there are still some wonderfully unsullied sections of beach to be found all around the island.  If you look for it, you'll even find a taste of rural life.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and temperatures in the 70s F. 
I did not sleep well you last night.  I got up at 6:30 AM, ate breakfast, and then caught the bus for our tour of the Mount Philerimos Monastery. 
The Philerimos Monastery was built in the 15th century on a mountain top overlooking Rhodes Town.  We departed the pier for the scenic 40-minute drive to the monastery following the west coast road before turning inland and ascending the winding road to the 1,000-foot plateau of Mt. Philerimos.  

Upon arrival, we took in spectacular views of Rhodes Town and toured the restored Church of Our Lady, Monastery, and barrel-vaulted Church of St. George. 

After the monastery tour, we returned to Rhodes Town and toured Old Town, which was surrounded by a 2.5 mile long wall.  We toured the old palace and the adjacent medieval streets admiring the sites. 

After the tour, we explored New Town on our own, including the harbor entrance where the Colossus of Rhodes once stood over the opening. The Colossus was a huge statue of the Greek god Helios.  It was built by Chares of Lindus from 292 to 280 BCE to celebrate the Rhodian victory over the Macedonians and to thank the god Helios for protecting them.  It stood on a jetty overlooking the city of Rhodes.  The brass Colossus was huge, standing 110 feet tall, nearly as high as the Statue of Liberty.   It survived 54 years until being toppled by an earthquake in 224 BCE.

We stopped for a beer in New Town, then went back to the ship for lunch.  In mid-afternoon, I went for a 10 mile run along the beach front. 
Because it was the second to last day on the ship, we attended the elegant Captain’s dinner.  The ship set sail for the 377-mile overnight journey to Heraklion, Crete.  After dinner, we stopped for a beer and then it was off to bed. 

Day  7 - Thursday, November 4, 2010 – Rhodes to Crete and Santorini


Itinerary:  Morning in Heraklion, Crete, Evening in Santorini.  We arrived early morning in Heraklion and enjoyed a half day at leisure to explore the island on our own before cruising at noon.
In the late afternoon and evening, we enjoyed a brief stop on the island of Santorini.  Known for its breathtaking caldera, Santorini is also famous for its sandy beaches, colorful sunsets, and whitewashed buildings along the cliffs.

About Isle of Crete from Fodor’s Travel Guide
To Greeks, Crete is the Megalonissi (Great Island), a hub of spectacular ancient art and architecture. Fabled as the land of King Minos, it is a unique world where civilization is counted by the millennium. From every point of view travelers discover landscapes of amazing variety. Mountains, split with deep gorges and honeycombed with caves, rise in sheer walls from the sea. Snowcapped peaks loom behind sandy shoreline, vineyards, and olive groves. Miles of beaches line the coast. Yet despite the attractions of sea and mountains, it is still the mystery surrounding Europe's first civilization and empire that draws the great majority of visitors to Crete and its world-famous Minoan palaces.
About Isle of Santorini from Fodor’s Travel Guide
One of the world's most picturesque islands cradles the sunken caldera of a volcano that last erupted around 1600 BCE. To merely link the phenomenon to the Atlantis myth and the Minoan collapse misses the point—what matters is the ravishing sight of the multicolor cliffs rising 1,100 feet out of sparkling blue waters, a visual treat that makes the heart skip a beat or two.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Partly cloudy and 70s F.
It was a leisurely day of strolling the islands and cruising on the ship.  We awoke in port in the town of Heraklion on the northern shores of Crete.  After breakfast, Dave, Bruce, Raye and I spent two hours exploring the ancient city of Heraklion on foot, going past the fort and south up the pedestrian mall to the outer walls of the city where we saw the grave of a famous Crete writer, Nikos Kazantzakis, and took photos.  We then headed east through town to a beautiful square with colorful inlaid tiles, then back to the center of town for coffee, and finally to the ship for a 10:45 AM departure and 72-mile cruise to the isle of Santorini

We left port at 11:30 AM.  After almost four hours of cruising, eating and recreation on the ship, we could see the white-washed towns of Santorini perched high atop an extinct volcano rim in the distance.   Everyone on the ship was out on deck to see it. 
We had to be ferried to shore by water taxis and then had the choice of taking the cable car or a donkey ride to the top.  We were fortunate to be on one of the first water taxis because the sun and photo opportunities were going down fast.  Upon arriving in town by cable car, we rush off to take pictures before sunset. 
We walked several miles and used the waning hours of sunshine to browse the shops and stop for a beer at one of the many cafes overlooking the harbor. 
After sunset, it was time to go back to the boat.  I walked down the winding donkey trail instead of taking the cable car.  I had to be very careful to avoid stepping in donkey poo along the way.  It took about 20 minutes at a brisk pace under cloak of darkness to get down to the water taxi. 
After getting back to the ship, I had dinner and went to bed.  Tomorrow we would be back in Athens for the start of the land portion of the tour.

Day  8 - Friday, November 5, 2010 – Asklepios/Epidaurus, Nauplion & Mycenae


Itinerary:  We got off the ship in the morning in Athens followed by sightseeing along the scenic coastal road en route to Olympia, with stops at the Corinth Canal, Sanctuary of Asklepios,  the Amphitheater of Epidaurus (built in 4 BCE), town of Nauplion, and the ancient ruins of Mycenae, the heartland of Greek mythology. In Mycenae, we visited the archaeological site known as the "Treasury of Atreus," and the Tomb of Agamemnon, built around 1250 B.C. From there, we drove the Central Peloponnese Peninsula, whose primary cities were Corinth and Sparta in classical times.  We ended our day in Olympia, birthplace of the first Olympic Games.

About Asklepios and Epidaurus from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The Sanctuary of Asklepios, once the most famous healing center in the ancient world, is today best known for the Theater at Epidaurus, remarkably well preserved because it was buried at some time in antiquity and remained untouched until it was uncovered in the late 19th century. Built in the 4th century BCE with 14,000 seats, the theater was never remodeled in antiquity, and because it was rather remote, the stones were never quarried for secondary building use. The extraordinary qualities of the theater were recognized even in the 2nd century AD.  The acoustics are so perfect that even from the last of the 55 tiers every word can be heard. The theater is the setting for a highly acclaimed summer drama festival, with outstanding productions.
About Nauplion from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Oraia (“beautiful”) is the word Greeks use to describe Nauplion. The town's old section, on a peninsula jutting into the gulf of Argos, mixes Greek, Venetian, and Turkish architecture.  Narrow streets, and often just broad flights of stone stairs, climb the slopes beneath the walls of Acronafplia. Tree-shaded plazas surround neoclassic buildings. The Palamidi fortress—an elegant display of Venetian might from the early 1700s—guards the town. Nauplion deserves at least a leisurely day of your undivided attention.
About Mycenae from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The ancient citadel of Mycenae, which Homer described as "rich in gold," stands on a low hill, wedged between sheer, lofty peaks on the edge of two deep ravines. The gloomy, gray ruins are hardly distinguishable from the rock beneath; it's hard to believe that this kingdom was once so powerful that it ruled a large portion of the Mediterranean world, from 1500 BCE to 1100 BCE.
Today the citadel is entered through the famous Lion Gate. The triangle above the lintel depicts in relief two lions, whose heads, probably of steatite, are now missing. They stand facing each other, their forepaws resting on a high pedestal representing an altar, above which stands a pillar ending in a uniquely shaped capital and abacus. Above the abacus are four sculptured discs, interpreted as representing the ends of beams that supported a roof. The gate was closed by a double wooden door sheathed in bronze. The two halves were secured by a wooden bar, which rested in cuttings in the jambs, still visible. The holes for the pivots on which it swung can still be seen in both sill and lintel.
Inside on the right stands the Granary, so named for the many pithoi (clay storage vessels) that were found inside the building, holding carbonized wheat grains.  Beyond the granary is the grave circle, made up of six stone slabs, encircled by a row of upright stone slabs interrupted on the northern side by the entrance. Above each grave stood a vertical stone stele. The "grave goods" buried with the dead were personal belongings including gold face masks, gold cups and jewelry, bronze swords with ivory hilts, and daggers with gold inlay, now in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. South of the stone slabs lie the remains of the House of the Warrior Vase, the Ramp House, the Cult Center, and others; farther south is the House of Tsountas of Mycenae. The palace complex covers the summit of the hill and occupies a series of terraces; people entered through a monumental gateway in the northwest side and, proceeding to the right, beyond it, came to the Great Courtyard of the palace. The ground was originally covered by a plaster coating above which was a layer of painted and decorated stucco. East of the Great Courtyard is the throne room, which had four columns supporting the roof (the bases are still visible) and a circular hearth in the center. Remains of an archaic temple and a Hellenistic temple can be seen north of the palace, and to the east on the right, on a lower level, are the workshops of the artists and craftsmen employed by the king. On the same level, adjoining the workshops to the east, is the House of the Columns, with a row of columns surrounding its central court. The remaining section of the east wall consists of an addition made in around 1250 BCE to ensure free communication from the citadel with the subterranean reservoir cut at the same time.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and 75 F.
It was another gorgeous day.  We had breakfast and disembarked the boat in Athens by 7 AM.  We then boarded our bus for a daylong journey through the southern Peloponnese region of Greece with a final destination of Olympia.  We made several stops along the way, including the ancient amphitheater of Epidaurus, the coastal town of Nauplion, and the ancient ruins of Mycenae.  All in all, it was a great day of sightseeing.
When we arrived in Athens, we were joined by our guide, Vicky, as well as 5 more people, including a couple from St. Louis by the name of Walter and Gay Trost, who were no relation to me, although it was funny to have two others on the tour with the same last name.  So we were a group of 24 in all. 
After 1-1/2 hours of cruising the countryside, we made a rest stop at the Isthmus of Corinth and snapped photos of a long, narrow ship canal that passed under the highway.  The canal was built by the same company that built the Suez Canal and connects the Ionic Sea to the west with the Aegean Sea to the east. 
About 45 minutes later, we arrived at the Amphitheater of Epidaurus, which was built in 4 BCE and still used today for concerts.  High school singing groups were visiting that day and took turns singing.  The acoustics were phenomenal and the groups could easily be heard without the aid of a sound system.  The amphitheater is considered the Carnegie Hall of Greece.  If you perform here, you are considered great.  Next to the amphitheater was the Sanctuary of Asklepios, dedicated to the god of healing, also the son of Apollo, who was allegedly born here.
After the amphitheater and sanctuary, we drove 45 minutes to the coastal town of Nauplion for lunch.  It was the first capital of Greece.  The town was beautiful, particularly the squares and buildings of Greek, Venetian and Turkish design.  I skipped lunch and walked up to the citadel high up on the bluff overlooking the town for some scenic photos of town and the harbor.  I was not disappointed. 
After the citadel, I followed a plan in my guidebook and made several stops on my way back to the bus, including St. Spyridon church where the first governor of Nauplion was assassinated in 1831 (you can still see the mark of the bullet by the Venetian portal), ruins of the 5 Brothers Fort, the Fishermen’s Quarter, the harbor front promenade and the Bourtzi fortress, Constitution (Syntagma) Square, and the bustling shopping streets. 
Around 1:15 PM, we got back on the bus and headed to the ancient ruins of Mycenae, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  We arrived around 2 PM and began an hour-long tour that included the beehive tomb of Agamemnon, the Lion’s Gate, the House of Columns, and the Treasury of Atreus.
After Mycenae, we began a 3-1/2 hour journey to our hotel in Olympia.  We traveled up and over steep mountains and burned out forests along the way.  The sun set around 5:20 PM.  The huge orange ball in the sky settling behind the mountains inspired a lot of photos. 
To shorten the trip to Olympia, we turned off the highway around 6 PM onto a narrow, winding country road.  Considering we never exceeded 20 mph, it seemed hard to justify, but a half hour later we were pulling into our hotel, the Hotel Europe, a very nice and quiet Best Western hotel.  I loved the view of the pool and countryside from our balcony.  After a really nice buffet dinner, it was off to bed.

Day  9 – Saturday, November 6, 2010 – Olympia


Itinerary:  We visited the archaeological site of Olympia, including the Sanctuary of Olympian Zeus, the ancient stadium, and the Archaeological Museum, where Greek works of art such as Nike of Paionios and terracotta statues dating to the 5th century BCE.  We then drove north through the plains of Eliad and Achaia, crossing the Corinth Strait via a cabled bridge from Rion to Antirion to the small town of Kalambaka, situated amidst smooth sandstone cliffs in the foothills of Meteora.


About Olympia from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The games that still hold the entire world in their thrall were first staged here in the pine-scented stadium and hippodrome, arranged around a sacred zone of temples, in 776 BC. Natives of Greek city-states called a temporary truce and suspended all warfare to compete peacefully in their chariot races, boxing matches, and pentathlons.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and 75 F.
Had a great night sleep, scrumptious breakfast, free Internet, and then it was off to the nearby archaeological site of Olympia and the Olympia Archaeological Museum.
The archaeological site contains acres and acres of ruins.  I particularly enjoyed the Sanctuary of Zeus, the arena where I posed for pictures on the starting line of foot races in ancient days, the altar where the Olympic torch is still lit today, then carried around the world on its journey to the host city, and the many temples and shrines to the ancient gods. 
Following the tour of the ruins, we visited the Museum, which contained many interesting and beautiful artifacts and statues taken from the area. 
Due to elections tomorrow, we had to postpone our journey to Delphi until Monday, so we continued our journey to Meteora instead.  Along the way, we crossed the world’s longest suspension bridge, Rio Alltois, drove through the mountains and passed hundreds of olive tree groves.  This is the beginning of olive harvesting season and the trees were definitely ready for picking.  Greece olive production is third in the world behind Spain and Italy.
Around 5:30 PM with 1 hour and 15 minutes to go before reaching Meteora, we were treated to another spectacular sunset as we descended from the mountains onto the Great Plains of Greece (Thessaly), the agricultural region of the country.  This is also the region where the Greek alphabet originated. 
We arrived at our hotel at 6:45 PM, had dinner, took a short stroll, and then went to bed. 

Day 10 – Sunday, November 7, 2010 – Meteora


Itinerary:  We visited Meteora, meaning "suspended in the air," with its mystical monasteries nestled perilously close to the edge of the region's astounding rock formations.  In the afternoon, we continued to Delphi.

About Meteora from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Getting closer to God, being halfway to Heaven … however you choose to describe the experience, ascending to these Byzantine monasteries perched atop 1,000-foot-high peaks is a most unearthly experience. With worldly diversions so far below, the religious visions lavishly pictured in frescoes and mosaics are all the more transcendent.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and 70 F.
Had a fitful sleep after devouring too many gyros with onions last night at dinner.  We had breakfast and left the hotel at 8:30 AM.  Our first stop was a craft shop where Byzantine sandstone icons are made.  The sandstones are made following practices that were handed down over the centuries by the monks who lived high above town in the monasteries of Meteora.  Incidentally, the monasteries are where the James Bond movie “For Your Eyes Only” was filmed.  While beautiful, I really didn’t have any room in my suitcase for a sandstone souvenir.
Our visit to the monastery started with a long bus ride up the mountain where we visited two of the six monasteries.  The first was the nunnery at St. Stevens where the women in our group were required to wear skirts, which were available at the door.  We toured the church and adjoining courtyard and enjoyed the spectacular view of the town of Kalambake below. 

Our second stop was the monastery of Varlaam, which is reached by crossing a bridge and climbing 195 steps.  We toured the monastery and enjoyed the scenery. 
We then drove back down to a scenic overlook for photos of the smallest monastery, St. Nicholas. 

We then stopped in town for lunch, which I skipped to walk around the town.  I visited the only famous site in town, the Dormition of the Virgin Mary Church. 
After getting lost and wandering around town for 15 minutes, I ran into some members of my tour group and got directions to the bus for the 1:30 PM departure for the 3-hour drive to Delphi. 
En route to Delphi, we stopped at Thermopylae to take photos of statues erected to commemorate the spot where King Leonidas and 300 Spartans held back the mighty Persian Army until they were finally killed in 480 BCE.  Because the Spartan soldiers knew they would die, their heroism has been an inspiration to the Greeks through the ages.
We arrived in Delphi just before sunset at 5:15 PM.  We went for a walk, had a few beers and stopped at an Internet café before returning to the hotel at 7 PM for dinner.  After dinner, we went for a walk and then it was off to bed.

Day 11 – Monday, November 8, 2010 – Delphi & Athens


Itinerary:  In the morning we visited the excavated site and museum of Delphi, and then returned to Athens.

About Delphi from Fodor’s Travel Guide
On Greece's most sacred ground, follow in the footsteps of the ancients and step into the temple of Apollo, where the Pythian oracle may or may not present a garbled answer to your questions. Even if the oracle doesn't send you into a spell, the spectacle of the sanctuary, theater, and treasure-filled museum will.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Sunny and 70 F.
We got a wake-up call at 7 AM, had breakfast at 8 AM, and were on the road to Delphi by 8:30 AM.  Delphi is famous for the oracle, a crevice in the ground that spewed gas.  It was discovered in ancient times by a shepherd who found his sheep behaving crazily.  The shepherd also became crazed after approaching the crevice and began spouting prophecies.  Eventually an elderly woman was placed on a stool next to the oracle.  People would approach her with questions, which she answered in an incomprehensible babble that the priests around her interpreted.  I know what you’re thinking—she was high on gas fumes and the priests took advantage of it to control people.  Eventually the gas stopped spewing from the crevice, the old woman died, and the legend went with her.  Delphi is also a major site for the worship of the god Apollo, who slew Pytho, a dragon that lived there and protected the navel of the earth.
Our first stop was the museum of Delphi, which contains artifacts excavated from the ancient ruins, followed by a tour of the ancient ruins that included the Temple of Apollo, the theater, the stadium, and the Temple of Athena. 

Following the tour and lunch, we headed back to Athens three hours away, arriving around 4 PM.  Along the way, we stopped at the ski resort town of Arachova, where we traversed the narrow streets trading paint jobs with a cement truck, and almost another tour bus.  We also went through a town that had suffered greatly during WWII.  The townspeople sabotaged Nazi plans and were all killed in revenge. 
Upon arrival in Athens, we checked into our hotel and strolled around the neighborhood.  We then met Bruce and Raye at D’Oro for pizza, which came with free dessert.  We went back to the hotel at 7:30 PM, packed our bags and went to bed. 

Day 12 – Tuesday, November 9, 2010 – Depart Athens for US


Itinerary:  We boarded our return flights to the US and our memorable journey ended with a late afternoon arrival back in the USA.
Daily Journal
Weather:  Beautiful in Athens, just like every day on the trip. 
It was a great 12 days and we covered a lot of ground.  But I was ready to go home.
I got up 30 minutes before the 5 AM wake-up call and had breakfast with Bruce and Raye.  We left the hotel at 5:30 AM for the 20-minute drive to the airport.  My flight to Munich left on time at 8 AM. 
By 10:30AM I was in Munich and two hours later I was on my way to Chicago 9-1/2 hours away.  I arrived on time in Chicago at 3:15 PM and caught my short flight to Milwaukee a little later.  By 5 PM I was back home in Milwaukee and the cold weather with just my memories of Greece to keep me warm.

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