Athens
– Greek Isles – Mycenae – Olympia- Meteora – Delphi
October 29 – November 9,
2010
Assorted Trip
Photos
Flag of Greece
Introduction
to Greece from Fodor's Travel Guide
The
sight greets you time and again in Greece—a line of solid, sun-bleached masonry
silhouetted against a clear blue sky. A
land where temples, theaters, statues, a stray Doric column or two, the
fragment of a Corinthian capital: these traces of the ancients are thick on the
ground. The Greek countryside itself remains a stunning presence, dotted
with cypress groves, vineyards, and olive trees; carved into gentle bays or
dramatic coves bordered with startling white sand; or articulated into rolling
hills and rugged mountain ranges that plunge into the sea.
Post-Trip Summary
Greece
was as wonderful as I had expected. I spent 12 days there at the end of
the tourist season in November 2010 visiting its legendary islands and ancient
cities. I experienced intriguing history, interesting sights, amazing
scenery, stellar weather, friendly people, great food, and comfortable
accommodations.
How Long Was Your Trip? When Did You Go? Where Did You
Go?
·
I spent
2-1/2 days getting back and forth from my home in Milwaukee to Greece.
·
I spent
1-1/2 days in Athens touring ancient sites like the Acropolis, the New
Acropolis Museum and the Olympic Stadium.
·
I spent
another 4 days on a beautiful ship at sea making stops at the islands of
Mykonos, Patmos, Rhodes, Crete and Santorini.
·
I then got
off the ship and spent 4 days traveling by motor coach to the ancient cities
of Mycenae, Olympia, Meteora and Delphi before
returning to Athens for the journey back to the US.
The
only problem with the tour was the shortness of the days. Our ship
arrived at the islands of Mykonos and Santorini in
the late afternoon and we didn’t have much time to explore before it got
dark. But they were still quite enjoyable.
|
Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company? I traveled with Gate1
Travel, the same company I used for my Thailand & Cambodia trip in 2007
and my Chile, Argentina & Brazil trip in January 2009. I
thought the itinerary hit all the major stops and was nicely paced. There
was ample leisure time to venture out on my own.
My
relatively-small tour group consisted of 24 people from all parts of the
US: New York, Pennsylvania, Florida, Mississippi, Indiana, Missouri,
Wisconsin, Texas and Colorado. We made good friends with a retired couple
from Colorado, Bruce and Raye Silverman. There
was also a couple from St. Louis with the same last name as me, Walter and Gay
Trost. We were not related. We had three program directors: Damos in Athens, Panos on the ship, and Vicky for the land portion of the tour. Panos and Vicky were excellent.
How Did You Get There and Back? I flew from Milwaukee to Newark, New Jersey
(2 hours), and then on to Athens (about 9-1/2 hours), with a 5-hour layover in
Newark. On the way home, I flew from Athens to Munich (about 2-1/2
hours), then Munich to Chicago (9-3/4 hours), then Chicago to Milwaukee (45
minutes), with 2-hour layovers in Munich and Chicago. I flew a total of
22,334 miles round trip.
Most
of our hotels were situated right in or near the heart of town. They were
generally modern, clean and comfortable. Each offered American and
Continental breakfast, which were generally quite good, and in many cases, a
buffet dinner featuring traditional Greek fare, which was always good.
What Was the Food Like? We found pretty much any type of food we wanted.
The meals were pretty basic: lamb, beef, pork chicken, potatoes,
vegetables, fruits and desserts.
How Were the People? The locals were pretty friendly. We had no problems
whatsoever. There was a language barrier however since few people spoke
English. Given the ongoing economic problems, we saw a lot of homeless
and unemployed people, and a few protests in Athens against government
reforms.
Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Generally yes because we
were either situated in the heart of town within walking distance to
everything, or shuttled around by motor coach to each of our destinations.
What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like? We dealt with one
currency, the Euro. Given the weakness of the dollar relative to the
Euro, everything seemed expensive. The shore sightseeing excursions
offered through the ship were particularly expensive. We took advantage
of cheaper options suggested by our tour guide whenever possible.
Net-Net, What Did This Whole Trip Cost You? This was one of the least
expensive trips I ever took--$3,100 in total, or about $260 per day. The
base trip cost $2,700 with trip insurance and included most everything like
roundtrip airfare from Milwaukee to Athens, lodging, meals, ground
transportation and sightseeing. I only spent another $600 once I got to
Greece, which was mostly bar tabs, optional sightseeing excursions, tips and
souvenirs. On past tours, total spending has often been twice the base
price of the tour, but not in this case. The trip was a good value.
How was the Weather? We traveled in the late fall. The days were
always sunny and warm (mostly in the 70s F), but not exactly beach
weather.
Any Parting Comments? Yes. Travel is an
adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people
around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never
come back the same person. And for that, I have a lot to be thankful for.
Following
is a day-by-day account of my trip. Each day starts with an overview of what we
did, followed by my daily journal. You can just read on or go back to the Table of Contents above and jump to a specific day or topic of
interest. Enjoy!
Day 1 - Friday, October 29,
2010 – Depart US for Greece
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and cool (60s F)
I
woke up at 5:30 AM, ate breakfast, showered, dressed and headed to the bus stop
in Milwaukee at 6:15 AM. I made it to the bus stop by 6:30 AM with a
minute to spare and was at the airport by 7:05 AM. Check-in took seconds
and I was at my gate with 2 hours to spare. My flight to Newark departed
and arrived on time and was uneventful except for some choppy air during
landing. I spent the next few hours reading my guide book, planning my
free time activities, and walking around the airport. I boarded my
Continental 767 at 5:40 PM and was airborne by 6:15 PM for the 9-hour flight to
Athens. My travel friend, Dave Marlo called
from JFK as I was boarding to say his flight to Athens was canceled and that he
was taking a different flight that arrived about the same time.
After
dinner, and somewhere over New Foundland, I donned my
eye mask and earplugs and tried to sleep. Athens is 8 hours ahead of
Milwaukee, so I wanted to get some sleep so I wouldn’t be dragging the next
day. I managed a few hours of sleep but tossed and turned a lot because
my seat did not recline very far due to the bulkhead behind it.
Day 2 – Saturday, October 30,
2010 – Athens
About
Athens from Fodor's
Travel Guide
It's
no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of
Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its
honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold
architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But,
today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience
Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the
essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling
beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on
humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The
rewards are immense.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and cool (60s F).
I
landed on time at 9:50 AM Athens time. By 11 AM, five of us from the tour
were headed to our downtown hotel in a van. I noticed a bridge that was
clearly a Santiago Calatrava creation like the art
museum in Milwaukee, of which our tour guide was familiar. Our route from
the airport to downtown took us through tidy urban neighborhoods. Along
the way, we passed the American embassy and learned that 5.5 million people
lived in Athens. As we approached downtown, I could see the Acropolis
perched upon a hill overlooking the city. It was beautiful.
We
rode the subway from Metaxourghio Station to Syntagma Station and started our long walk. We
started with swanky Ermou Street enjoying people
watching and the bustling flea markets on Monastiraki
(“Constitution”) Square and Adrianu where the
principle tourist markets are located. We then headed south through a
nearby park where remnants of ancient Greece laid in ruins as far as the eye
could see along a path that led to the Acropolis. We took in the Ancient
Agora and the Stoa of Attalus.
Then
we walked the Dion Aeropagitou to the end until we
reached the Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch.
We
then walked north along Filellinon Street to the Hard
Rock Café where we enjoyed appetizers and Greek beers. I added another
HRC T-shirt to my collection. From the HRC we walked all the way back to
our hotel along Panepistiou and Konstatinou
Streets.
Around
7 PM, we went to a hotel meeting room for orientation with our program director
and to meet the others in our group. We enjoyed appetizers and ouzo with
orange juice. We adjourned to the rooftop restaurant of our hotel where
we enjoyed a nice meal and the views of the illuminated Acropolis. By 10
PM I was ready for bed. Fortunately, Greece went off daylight savings
overnight and we gained an extra hour of much needed sleep.
Day 3 – Sunday,
October 31, 2010 – Athens
About
the Acropolis from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The
great emblem of classical Greece has loomed above Athens (whose harbor of
Piraeus is gateway to all the Greek Islands) for 2,500 years. Even from afar,
the sight of the Parthenon—the great marble temple that the 5th century BCE
statesmen Pericles conceived to crown the site—stirs strong feelings about the
achievements and failings of Western Civilization.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and cool (60s F).
After falling asleep at 9:00
PM, I awoke at midnight, tossed and turned for an hour, then slept until almost
6:00 AM. After updating my journal, we went to breakfast in our
hotel. It was a nice spread--American and European breakfasts.
After breakfast, we walked to Monastiraki
(“Constitution”) Square to see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the changing
of the guard. We then strolled through the National Gardens and hung out
at the ancient Olympic Stadium (Panathenian Stadium)
where we witnessed the finish of the 26th Athens Marathon.
Around noon, we walked back
to our hotel to meet our group for the 1:00 PM guided tour of Athens, The
Acropolis and the new Acropolis Museum. The Acropolis was very
interesting and the view of surrounding Athens from the high perch
breathtaking.
After the Acropolis, we went
to the new Acropolis Museum at the base of Acropolis Hill. It had glass
floors above excavated ruins and room after room of ancient artifacts
discovered at the Acropolis.
After the tour, we went back
to our hotel to freshen up and then out to a nearby pizza restaurant for a
delicious dinner and a couple of Mythos beers. Then it was back to the
hotel for a good night's rest.
Day 4 – Monday, November 1,
2010 – Athens to Mykonos
About
the Isle of Mykonos from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Backpackers
and jet-setters alike share the beautiful beaches and the Dionysian
nightlife—this island is not called the St. Tropez of the Aegean without
reason—but the old ways of life continue undisturbed in fishing ports and along
mazelike town streets. Not only are the hotels and cafés picture-perfect, the
famous windmills actually seem to be posing for your camera.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and cool (60s F).
After
a fitful night of sleep, I awoke at 6:00 AM and had breakfast in the hotel
restaurant. Afterwards, we met our guide Damos
and drove by bus to the Athens port where we boarded our ship for the isle of
Mykonos. We set sail under perfect weather conditions around 11:00 AM and
arrived in Mykonos around 4:00 PM.
Following
the fire drill and orientation with our new program director, Panos, we just sat back and relaxed. We ate, drank,
met new friends, strolled the decks, admired the
views, and watched onboard entertainment. The ship had several
restaurants, bars, casinos and other places to hang out.
Around
5 PM, our guide Panos led us on a tour of Mykonos
Town. It was already dark, so we didn’t get the greatest pictures of the
white buildings and sand beaches, but we did enjoy the narrow, cobblestone
streets and shopping.
After
2 hours, we went back to the shuttle bus and returned to the ship for a
scrumptious dinner. We dined with Bruce and Raye
from Colorado, who were also part of our tour. We took a short walk
around the ship after dinner and then went to bed around 10:30 PM. The
ship set sail shortly thereafter for our overnight cruise to Kusadasi, Turkey, where we would spend a large portion of
the next day. Our cabin was on a lower deck so the rumbling of the
engines lulled me to sleep.
Day
5 – Tuesday, November 2, 2010 – Mykonos to Kusadasi, Turkey & Patmos
About
Kusadasi, Turkey from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Kusadasi long ago lost its local charm to invasive,
sterile buildings and overpopulation, and the huge yacht marina, the largest in
the region, has only exacerbated the situation. Kusadasi
is also a port for cruise ships. So, what was a small fishing village up until
the 1970s is now a sprawling, hyperactive town packed with curio shops and a
year-round population of around 60,000, which swells several times over in
summer with the influx of tourists and Turks with vacation homes.
About
Isle of Patmos from Fodor’s Travel Guide
For
better or worse, it can be difficult to reach Patmos—for many travelers, this
lack of access is definitely for the better, since the island retains the air
of an unspoiled retreat. Rocky and barren, the small, 34-square-km
(21-square-mi) island lies beyond the islands of Kalymnos
and Leros, northwest of Kos. Here on a hillside is
the Monastery of the Apocalypse, which enshrines the cave where St. John
received the Revelation in AD 95. Scattered evidence of Mycenaean presence
remains on Patmos, and walls of the classical period indicate the existence of
a town near Skala. Most of the island's approximately
2,800 people live in three villages: Skala, medieval Chora, and the small rural settlement of Kambos. The island is popular among the faithful making
pilgrimages to the monastery as well as with vacationing Athenians and a
wealthy international set who have bought homes in Chora.
Administrators have carefully contained development, and as a result, Patmos
retains its charm and natural beauty—even in the busy month of August.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and warm (70s F).
Dave
got up early at 9:30 AM for the ½-day tour of Ephesus, Turkey. We saw this in depth in October 2007 when we visited Turkey. I saw no reason to
see it again so slept in. I overslept so had a quick breakfast and headed
out at 9:00 AM to explore the Turkish town of Kusadasi
where we moored. I walked through the narrow streets of town and up the
mountain towering over the city to photograph a statue of Ataturk and admire
the views. As I passed through the bazaar, I got hit up left and right by
the merchants on both sides hawking their wares.
Eventually
the shops gave way to an interesting residential area with funky colored homes,
stray cats, laundry hanging out, and garbage strewn about. To keep a
stranger like me from roaming aimlessly through the neighborhood, some guys on
the street told me certain roads were “closed.” I ignored them and kept
walking where I wanted to.
Once
I got to the top of the mountain, I took some shots of the Ataturk statue on
top and panoramic shots of the harbor below.
I
then walked back to town visiting a mosque and several shops in the back
streets along the harbor. I also walked along the harbor front and beach
and took pictures of the boats in the marina, the fishermen mending their nets,
and cats eating scraps of fish that were thrown to them by the men cleaning
fish.
I
arrived back at the ship at 10:45 AM. Dave arrived back from the Ephesus
tour shortly thereafter and our ship left Kusadasi
for the 48-mile journey to the isle of Patmos at 11:30 AM. Along the way,
we ate and drank, and ate and drank some more.
We
arrived in Patmos a half hour ahead of schedule at 3:30 PM.
Instead
of the expensive $65 tour to the Monastery of St. John and the Monastery of the
Apocalypse (“The Grottos”), we opted for the $2 bus ride 2-1/2 miles up the
mountain to the Monastery of St. John, and then walked ½ way down from there to
the Monastery of the Apocalypse, and then all the way back down into town.
I
had my guide book with me so I was able to tell the rest of the group what we
were seeing. The Monastery of the Apocalypse is where St. John wrote the
last chapter of the Bible, the Book of Revelation. He also died here at
the age of 92. There is a shrine in the corner of the room where he was
found dead, and gold leaf on the wall marking the spot where his head
rested. Masses are still conducted in the Monastery.
After
touring, we headed down the long, steep hill back to town where we stopped at
the Igloo Internet Café for a few beers and to catch up on email. After
that, we headed back to the ship for dinner, then met Lynn, Lynn and Kathy from
our group in the lounge for a nightcap. The ship set sail for the 112
mile overnight trip to the isle of Rhodes and it was off to bed.
Day 6 – Wednesday, November 3, 2010 – Patmos to
Rhodes
About
Isle of Rhodes from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The
fourth-largest Greek island and, along with Sicily and Cyprus, one of the great
islands of the Mediterranean, Rhodes was long
considered a bridge between Europe and the East. Today, its diversity ensures
it remains a polestar of tourism as well. Rhodes Town brings together
fascinating artifacts, medieval architecture, an active nightlife, and is
reputedly the sunniest spot in all Europe. And though some of the shore is
beset by vast resort hotels and holiday villages, there are still some
wonderfully unsullied sections of beach to be found all around the
island. If you look for it, you'll even find a taste of rural life.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and temperatures in the 70s F.
I
did not sleep well you last night. I got up at 6:30 AM, ate breakfast,
and then caught the bus for our tour of the Mount Philerimos
Monastery.
The
Philerimos Monastery was built in the 15th century on
a mountain top overlooking Rhodes Town. We departed the pier for the
scenic 40-minute drive to the monastery following the west coast road before
turning inland and ascending the winding road to the 1,000-foot plateau of Mt. Philerimos.
Upon
arrival, we took in spectacular views of Rhodes Town and toured the restored
Church of Our Lady, Monastery, and barrel-vaulted Church of St. George.
After
the monastery tour, we returned to Rhodes Town and toured Old Town, which was
surrounded by a 2.5 mile long wall. We toured the old palace and the
adjacent medieval streets admiring the sites.
After
the tour, we explored New Town on our own, including the harbor entrance where the
Colossus of Rhodes once stood over the opening. The Colossus was a huge statue
of the Greek god Helios. It was built by Chares
of Lindus from 292 to 280 BCE to celebrate the Rhodian victory over the Macedonians and to thank the god
Helios for protecting them. It stood on a jetty overlooking the city of
Rhodes. The brass Colossus was huge, standing 110 feet tall, nearly as
high as the Statue of Liberty. It survived 54 years until being
toppled by an earthquake in 224 BCE.
We
stopped for a beer in New Town, then went back to the
ship for lunch. In mid-afternoon, I went for a 10 mile run along the
beach front.
Because
it was the second to last day on the ship, we attended the elegant Captain’s
dinner. The ship set sail for the 377-mile overnight journey to Heraklion, Crete. After dinner, we stopped for a beer
and then it was off to bed.
Day 7 - Thursday, November 4, 2010 – Rhodes to Crete and Santorini
In the late afternoon and evening, we enjoyed a brief stop on the
island of Santorini. Known for its breathtaking
caldera, Santorini is also famous for its sandy
beaches, colorful sunsets, and whitewashed buildings along the cliffs.
About
Isle of Crete from Fodor’s Travel Guide
To Greeks,
Crete is the Megalonissi (Great Island), a hub of
spectacular ancient art and architecture. Fabled as the land of King Minos, it
is a unique world where civilization is counted by the millennium. From every
point of view travelers discover landscapes of amazing variety. Mountains, split with deep gorges and honeycombed with
caves, rise in sheer walls from the sea. Snowcapped peaks loom behind sandy
shoreline, vineyards, and olive groves. Miles of beaches line the coast. Yet
despite the attractions of sea and mountains, it is still the mystery
surrounding Europe's first civilization and empire that draws the great
majority of visitors to Crete and its world-famous Minoan palaces.
About
Isle of Santorini from Fodor’s Travel Guide
One
of the world's most picturesque islands cradles the sunken caldera of a volcano
that last erupted around 1600 BCE. To merely link the phenomenon to the
Atlantis myth and the Minoan collapse misses the point—what matters is the
ravishing sight of the multicolor cliffs rising 1,100 feet out of sparkling
blue waters, a visual treat that makes the heart skip a beat or two.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Partly cloudy and 70s F.
It
was a leisurely day of strolling the islands and
cruising on the ship. We awoke in port in the town of Heraklion
on the northern shores of Crete. After breakfast, Dave, Bruce, Raye and I spent two hours exploring the ancient city of Heraklion on foot, going past the fort and south up the
pedestrian mall to the outer walls of the city where we saw the grave of a
famous Crete writer, Nikos Kazantzakis, and took photos. We then headed
east through town to a beautiful square with colorful inlaid tiles, then back
to the center of town for coffee, and finally to the ship for a 10:45 AM
departure and 72-mile cruise to the isle of Santorini.
We
left port at 11:30 AM. After almost four hours of cruising, eating and
recreation on the ship, we could see the white-washed towns of Santorini perched high atop an extinct volcano rim in the
distance. Everyone on the ship was out on deck to see it.
We
had to be ferried to shore by water taxis and then had the choice of taking the
cable car or a donkey ride to the top. We were fortunate to be on one of
the first water taxis because the sun and photo opportunities were going down
fast. Upon arriving in town by cable car, we rush off to take pictures
before sunset.
We
walked several miles and used the waning hours of sunshine to browse the shops
and stop for a beer at one of the many cafes overlooking the harbor.
After
sunset, it was time to go back to the boat. I walked down the winding
donkey trail instead of taking the cable car. I had to be very careful to
avoid stepping in donkey poo along the way. It took about 20 minutes at a
brisk pace under cloak of darkness to get down to the water taxi.
After
getting back to the ship, I had dinner and went to bed. Tomorrow we would
be back in Athens for the start of the land portion of the tour.
Day 8 - Friday,
November 5, 2010 – Asklepios/Epidaurus, Nauplion & Mycenae
About
Asklepios and Epidaurus from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The
Sanctuary of Asklepios, once the most famous healing
center in the ancient world, is today best known for the Theater at Epidaurus,
remarkably well preserved because it was buried at some time in antiquity and
remained untouched until it was uncovered in the late 19th century. Built in
the 4th century BCE with 14,000 seats, the theater was never remodeled in
antiquity, and because it was rather remote, the stones were never quarried for
secondary building use. The extraordinary qualities of the theater were
recognized even in the 2nd century AD. The acoustics are so perfect that
even from the last of the 55 tiers every word can be heard. The theater is the
setting for a highly acclaimed summer drama festival, with outstanding
productions.
About
Nauplion from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Oraia (“beautiful”) is the word Greeks use to describe Nauplion. The town's old section, on a peninsula jutting
into the gulf of Argos, mixes Greek, Venetian, and Turkish architecture.
Narrow streets, and often just broad flights of stone stairs, climb the slopes
beneath the walls of Acronafplia. Tree-shaded plazas
surround neoclassic buildings. The Palamidi
fortress—an elegant display of Venetian might from the early 1700s—guards the
town. Nauplion deserves at least a leisurely day of
your undivided attention.
About
Mycenae from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The
ancient citadel of Mycenae, which Homer described as "rich in gold,"
stands on a low hill, wedged between sheer, lofty peaks on the edge of two deep
ravines. The gloomy, gray ruins are hardly distinguishable from the rock
beneath; it's hard to believe that this kingdom was once so powerful that it
ruled a large portion of the Mediterranean world, from 1500 BCE to 1100 BCE.
Today
the citadel is entered through the famous Lion Gate. The triangle above the
lintel depicts in relief two lions, whose heads, probably of steatite, are now
missing. They stand facing each other, their forepaws resting on a high
pedestal representing an altar, above which stands a pillar ending in a
uniquely shaped capital and abacus. Above the abacus are four sculptured discs,
interpreted as representing the ends of beams that supported a roof. The gate
was closed by a double wooden door sheathed in bronze. The two halves were
secured by a wooden bar, which rested in cuttings in the jambs, still visible.
The holes for the pivots on which it swung can still be seen in both sill and
lintel.
Inside
on the right stands the Granary, so named for the many pithoi
(clay storage vessels) that were found inside the building, holding carbonized
wheat grains. Beyond the granary is the grave circle, made up of six
stone slabs, encircled by a row of upright stone slabs interrupted on the
northern side by the entrance. Above each grave stood a
vertical stone stele. The "grave goods" buried with the dead
were personal belongings including gold face masks, gold cups and jewelry,
bronze swords with ivory hilts, and daggers with gold inlay, now in the
National Archaeological Museum of Athens. South of the stone slabs lie the
remains of the House of the Warrior Vase, the Ramp House, the Cult Center, and
others; farther south is the House of Tsountas of
Mycenae. The palace complex covers the summit of the hill and occupies a series
of terraces; people entered through a monumental gateway in the northwest side
and, proceeding to the right, beyond it, came to the Great Courtyard of the
palace. The ground was originally covered by a plaster coating above which was
a layer of painted and decorated stucco. East of the Great Courtyard is the
throne room, which had four columns supporting the roof (the bases are still
visible) and a circular hearth in the center. Remains of an archaic temple and
a Hellenistic temple can be seen north of the palace, and to the east on the
right, on a lower level, are the workshops of the artists and craftsmen
employed by the king. On the same level, adjoining the workshops to the east, is the House of the Columns, with a row of columns
surrounding its central court. The remaining section of the east wall consists
of an addition made in around 1250 BCE to ensure free communication from the
citadel with the subterranean reservoir cut at the same time.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and 75 F.
When
we arrived in Athens, we were joined by our guide, Vicky, as well as 5 more
people, including a couple from St. Louis by the name of Walter and Gay Trost,
who were no relation to me, although it was funny to have two others on the
tour with the same last name. So we were a group of 24 in all.
After
1-1/2 hours of cruising the countryside, we made a
rest stop at the Isthmus of Corinth and snapped photos of a long, narrow ship
canal that passed under the highway. The canal was built by the same
company that built the Suez Canal and connects the Ionic Sea to the west with
the Aegean Sea to the east.
After
the amphitheater and sanctuary, we drove 45 minutes to the coastal town of Nauplion for lunch. It was the first capital of
Greece. The town was beautiful, particularly the squares and buildings of
Greek, Venetian and Turkish design. I skipped lunch and walked up to the
citadel high up on the bluff overlooking the town for some scenic photos of
town and the harbor. I was not disappointed.
After
the citadel, I followed a plan in my guidebook and made several stops on my way
back to the bus, including St. Spyridon church where
the first governor of Nauplion was assassinated in
1831 (you can still see the mark of the bullet by the Venetian portal), ruins
of the 5 Brothers Fort, the Fishermen’s Quarter, the harbor front promenade and
the Bourtzi fortress, Constitution (Syntagma) Square, and the bustling shopping streets.
Around
1:15 PM, we got back on the bus and headed to the ancient ruins of Mycenae, a
UNESCO World Heritage site. We arrived around 2 PM and began an hour-long
tour that included the beehive tomb of Agamemnon, the Lion’s Gate, the House of
Columns, and the Treasury of Atreus.
After
Mycenae, we began a 3-1/2 hour journey to our hotel in Olympia. We
traveled up and over steep mountains and burned out forests along the
way. The sun set around 5:20 PM. The huge orange ball in the sky
settling behind the mountains inspired a lot of photos.
To
shorten the trip to Olympia, we turned off the highway around 6 PM onto a
narrow, winding country road. Considering we never exceeded 20 mph, it
seemed hard to justify, but a half hour later we were pulling into our hotel,
the Hotel Europe, a very nice and quiet Best Western hotel. I loved the
view of the pool and countryside from our balcony. After a really nice
buffet dinner, it was off to bed.
Day 9 – Saturday, November 6,
2010 – Olympia
About
Olympia from Fodor’s Travel Guide
The
games that still hold the entire world in their thrall were first staged here
in the pine-scented stadium and hippodrome, arranged around a sacred zone of
temples, in 776 BC. Natives of Greek city-states called a temporary truce and
suspended all warfare to compete peacefully in their chariot races, boxing
matches, and pentathlons.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and 75 F.
Had
a great night sleep, scrumptious breakfast, free Internet, and then it was off
to the nearby archaeological site of Olympia and the Olympia Archaeological Museum.
The
archaeological site contains acres and acres of ruins. I particularly
enjoyed the Sanctuary of Zeus, the arena where I posed for pictures on the
starting line of foot races in ancient days, the altar where the Olympic torch
is still lit today, then carried around the world on its journey to the host
city, and the many temples and shrines to the ancient gods.
Following
the tour of the ruins, we visited the Museum, which contained many interesting
and beautiful artifacts and statues taken from the area.
Due
to elections tomorrow, we had to postpone our journey to Delphi until Monday,
so we continued our journey to Meteora instead.
Along the way, we crossed the world’s longest suspension bridge, Rio Alltois, drove through the mountains and passed hundreds of
olive tree groves. This is the beginning of olive harvesting season and
the trees were definitely ready for picking. Greece olive production is
third in the world behind Spain and Italy.
Around
5:30 PM with 1 hour and 15 minutes to go before reaching Meteora,
we were treated to another spectacular sunset as we descended from the
mountains onto the Great Plains of Greece (Thessaly), the agricultural region
of the country. This is also the region where the Greek alphabet
originated.
We
arrived at our hotel at 6:45 PM, had dinner, took a short stroll, and then went
to bed.
Day 10 – Sunday, November
7, 2010 – Meteora
About
Meteora from Fodor’s Travel Guide
Getting
closer to God, being halfway to Heaven … however you choose to describe the
experience, ascending to these Byzantine monasteries perched atop 1,000-foot-high
peaks is a most unearthly experience. With worldly diversions so far below, the
religious visions lavishly pictured in frescoes and mosaics are all the more
transcendent.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and 70 F.
Had a fitful sleep after devouring too many gyros with onions
last night at dinner. We had breakfast and left the hotel at 8:30 AM.
Our first stop was a craft shop where Byzantine sandstone icons are made.
The sandstones are made following practices that were handed down over the
centuries by the monks who lived high above town in the monasteries of Meteora. Incidentally, the monasteries are where the
James Bond movie “For Your Eyes Only” was filmed. While beautiful, I
really didn’t have any room in my suitcase for a sandstone souvenir.
Our
visit to the monastery started with a long bus ride up the mountain where we
visited two of the six monasteries. The first was the nunnery at St.
Stevens where the women in our group were required to wear skirts, which were
available at the door. We toured the church and adjoining courtyard and
enjoyed the spectacular view of the town of Kalambake
below.
Our
second stop was the monastery of Varlaam, which is
reached by crossing a bridge and climbing 195 steps. We toured the
monastery and enjoyed the scenery.
We
then drove back down to a scenic overlook for photos of the smallest monastery,
St. Nicholas.
We
then stopped in town for lunch, which I skipped to walk around the town.
I visited the only famous site in town, the Dormition
of the Virgin Mary Church.
En
route to Delphi, we stopped at Thermopylae to take photos of statues erected to
commemorate the spot where King Leonidas and 300 Spartans held back the mighty
Persian Army until they were finally killed in 480 BCE. Because the
Spartan soldiers knew they would die, their heroism has been an inspiration to
the Greeks through the ages.
Day 11 – Monday, November 8, 2010 – Delphi & Athens
About
Delphi from Fodor’s Travel Guide
On
Greece's most sacred ground, follow in the footsteps of the ancients and step into
the temple of Apollo, where the Pythian oracle may or
may not present a garbled answer to your questions. Even if the oracle doesn't
send you into a spell, the spectacle of the sanctuary, theater, and
treasure-filled museum will.
Daily
Journal
Weather: Sunny and 70 F.
We
got a wake-up call at 7 AM, had breakfast at 8 AM, and were on the road to
Delphi by 8:30 AM. Delphi is famous for the oracle, a crevice in the
ground that spewed gas. It was discovered in ancient times by a shepherd
who found his sheep behaving crazily. The shepherd also became crazed
after approaching the crevice and began spouting prophecies. Eventually
an elderly woman was placed on a stool next to the oracle. People would
approach her with questions, which she answered in an incomprehensible babble
that the priests around her interpreted. I know what you’re thinking—she
was high on gas fumes and the priests took advantage of it to control
people. Eventually the gas stopped spewing from the crevice, the old
woman died, and the legend went with her. Delphi is also a major site for the worship of the god Apollo, who slew Pytho, a dragon that lived there and protected the navel of
the earth.
Our first stop was the museum of Delphi, which contains
artifacts excavated from the ancient ruins, followed by a tour of the ancient
ruins that included the Temple of Apollo, the theater, the stadium, and the
Temple of Athena.
Following
the tour and lunch, we headed back to Athens three hours away, arriving around
4 PM. Along the way, we stopped at the ski resort town of Arachova, where we traversed the narrow streets trading
paint jobs with a cement truck, and almost another tour bus. We also went
through a town that had suffered greatly during WWII. The townspeople
sabotaged Nazi plans and were all killed in revenge.
Upon
arrival in Athens, we checked into our hotel and strolled around the
neighborhood. We then met Bruce and Raye at D’Oro for pizza, which came with free dessert. We
went back to the hotel at 7:30 PM, packed our bags and went to bed.
Day 12 – Tuesday, November
9, 2010 – Depart Athens for US
Daily
Journal
Weather: Beautiful in Athens, just like every day on the
trip.
It
was a great 12 days and we covered a lot of ground. But I was ready to go
home.
By
10:30AM I was in Munich and two hours later I was on my way to Chicago 9-1/2
hours away. I arrived on time in Chicago at 3:15 PM and caught my short
flight to Milwaukee a little later. By 5 PM I was back home in Milwaukee
and the cold weather with just my memories of Greece to keep me warm.
