Not since my 7th grade social studies class in the early 1970s had I been so deeply exposed to ancient Mayan and Aztec history. Back then, I remember being in awe at how advanced these civilizations were. So when the opportunity to travel from Mexico City to the Yucatan Peninsula came up, I couldn't pass it up. I got a decent dose of history, nature, and culture while experiencing interesting sights, amazing scenery, decent weather, friendly people, great food, and comfortable accommodations. Once again, I traveled with Gate1Travel on its 13-Day Mexico's Mayan and Aztec Illumination Tour.
This was one of Gate1's more expensive Small Group Discovery tours rather than one of their Affordable, Essential, or Classic tours. The tour included a mix of Aztec and Mayan ruins and Spanish Colonial cities between Mexico City and Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula. All of the ruins were spectacular and I have no favorites among them though I thought Chichen Itza was the crown jewel. As for cities, my favorite was Puebla for its architecture, vibrant colors and walkability. The cleanliness and lack of smog in Mexico City was also a surprise. As always, our tour director and motorcoach driver were the consummate professionals, the hotels were outstanding, and the food was great.
How Long Was Your Trip? When Did You Go? Where Did You Go? The tour lasted 13 days from October 7-19, 2022. I spent:
2-1/2 days in Mexico City
9-1/2 days driving east from Mexico City to Cancun with stops in Puebla, Veracruz, Palenque, Campeche, Uxmal, Merida, Izamal, and Chichen Itza
1 day flying back and forth from the US
Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company? As I said above, I took an escorted Gate1Travel tour. It was nicely paced and hit all the major stops. Our tour manager, Edel Hernandez, was exceptionally knowledgeable, helpful, and entertaining, as were our motorcoach driver, Tiberio, and local guides.
My tour group had 18 people. Most came from the US, primarily Texas, Florida and California. There were also four Canadians. We were a very seasoned group of travelers and got along well. The group started out with 20 people, but two people had to leave on the third day because one of them had a pacemaker issue with Mexico City's 7,300' altitude. The altitude even got to me on occasion with shortness of breath, but it was nothing like Colombia, Peru and Ecuador.
The Tour Group & Tour Director (On Right) at Chichen Itza
How Did You Get There and Back? I flew from my home in Milwaukee to Houston, where I stayed with a travel friend for a day before traveling to Mexico. I had a short, direct flight to Mexico City at the start of the trip. On the way back, I flew from Cancun to Mexico City, then on to Houston. Total air mileage was about 4,360 miles. Once on the ground in Mexico, we traveled about 1,200 miles by motorcoach to each of our destinations. In retrospect, I should have planned an extra day on my own in Mexico City or Cancun because I would have liked another day in either of those places.
Air Travel Map - 4,360 Miles
Ground Travel Map - 1,200 Miles
Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Yes, because we were largely situated either in the heart of each town within walking distance to most everything, or shuttled by motorcoach to each of our destinations.
Our Deluxe Motorcoach
The bus also had a bathroom nobody used, as well as USB and plug outlets for charging phones and laptops. The bus didn't have WiFi, but fortunately, my AT&T cell phone plan from the US covered me in Mexico at no additional cost.
By the way, Gate1 has a seat rotation policy so that the same people don't always have the coveted front seats. As usual, I sat in the back behind the rotation zone with a few others so we could talk without interrupting the others.
Where Did You Stay? We stayed in a number of 4-star and 5-star hotels. Most were in or close to the center of town. All hotels were modern, clean, and comfortable, with excellent restaurants and great Internet. All had fitness centers, but few opened early enough to take advantage of them. I made up for it by doing a lot of walking. The hotels in Puebla and Chichen Itza were sprawling resorts where we stayed in bungalows close to the pool instead of standard hotel rooms.
Gate1 Hotels - Simply Awesome
The electricity and plugs in Mexico are identical to the US (A- and B-type), so you can use your US appliances in Mexico without adapters or power converters.
Meals? Most meals were included in the price of the tour. Breakfast was included every morning at our hotels while lunches and dinners were sometimes on our own. All meals included multiple healthy options to suit all tastes and dietary needs.
How was the Weather? I traveled in October. The weather was cool in the mountains (Mexico City and Puebla) and hot humid in the lower elevations. The daytime temperatures in Mexico City barely cracked 65F but became increasingly hotter and more humid as we came down from the mountains and closer to the Gulf of Mexico. Daytime temperatures in the lower elevations often hit 90s F with high humidity. It rained very little despite the presence of tropical storm Karl in the region.
What Clothing Did You Pack? I brought about 4 days worth of quick drying clothing ("Dri-Fit") for the 13-day trip and did laundry in the bathroom sink at the hotel every few days. I brought mostly shorts and t-shirts. I also brought one pair of long pants and one long-sleeve shirt to prevent mosquito bites in jungle-like touring areas. I also brought two pairs of comfortable shoes, a rain jacket, a wide brim hat, sunscreen and insect repellent.
What was the Time Difference? There was no time difference or jetlag to contend with since Mexico is in the same time zone as my hometown Milwaukee (US, Central Time, GMT/UTC −06:00).
What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like? Mexico's currency is the peso, but the US dollar is accepted at larger establishments. I got pesos from bank ATMs as needed. The conversion rates and fees were fair and nominal.
Mexico Currency - 100 Pesos = $5 as of 10/1/2022
What Did This Whole Trip Cost You? It was neither cheap nor expensive. I spent $3,800 in total, or about $300 per day. It was money well spent and an excellent travel value. I paid 90% of the trip cost ($3,450) before leaving the US. Once on the ground, I spent another $350 on items not included in the tour cost, such as tips, lunches and dinners on my own, and international mobile phone/internet charges.
Mexico Trip Cost - $3,800 ($300/Day)
Special Trip Considerations.
COVID 19.Proof of COVID vaccination was a precondition to travel with Gate1. Otherwise, Mexico still required masking on planes and public spaces. Except for AeroMexico, enforcement was lax.
Malaria. The mosquitoes can be bad year round in the Yucatan Peninsula. I did not take malaria pills before the tour but some people in my tour group did. Be sure to bring insect repellent with maximum DEET from the US (Note: Mexican insect repellents contain maximum 15% DEET whereas US brands contain up to 40%). Be sure to bring a long sleeve shirt and a pair of pants, both light in color, to prevent mosquito bites.
Air Quality. Air quality was generally quite good everywhere even in Mexico City.
Physical Condition. We traversed a lot of steps, uneven surfaces, and steep grades, exacerbated by high temperatures and humidity. If you have mobility or heat issues, this is probably not the tour for you.
Any Parting Comments? Travel is an adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never come back the same person. Following is a day-by-day account of my trip. Each day starts with an overview of what we did, followed by my daily journal. I stopped giving history lessons in my posts but added links you can click on to read more about the places I visited. You can just read on from here or go back up to the Table of Contents above and jump to a specific day or topic of interest. Enjoy!
Itinerary: Arrival in buzzing Mexico City, Mexico, a city with a storied history dating from pre-Hispanic to colonial-era and now one of the most contemporary and vivacious cities in Latin America. Evening orientation meeting with Tour Manager. Remainder of evening at leisure.
After spending two days in Houston, the Mexico trip was finally here. We got to the airport
around 7:00 am and waited about four hours before departing for Mexico City on time at 11:15 am aboard our Aeromexico Boeing 737 Max 8.
Our Plane from Houston to Mexico City
2 Hour, 45 Minute Flight Houston to Mexico City
Although COVID restrictions have been largely lifted in the US, we were still required to wear masks on the plane and in public places throughout Mexico.
Masks Still Required on Aeromexico (October 2022)
Fortunately, the flight wasn't full so there was plenty of room in the overhead bin for my carry-on bag, which contained enough clothes for four days of the 13-day trip. The weather was expected to be very nice for the duration of the trip so I was able to bring mostly shorts, t-shirts, and a couple pairs of shoes. I did laundry in the bathroom sink when needed so that I would always have clean clothes.
My Luggage on Right - 4 Days of Clothing - Under 25 Pounds
Two-and-a-hours later, we arrived in Mexico City, cleared immigration, met our Gate1 driver in the arrival hall, and drove to our five-star hotel in the Zona Reforma district (Hotel Marquis Reforma) in the heart of Mexico City.
As we were flying in, I was in awe of the sheer size of Mexico City. It seemed to go on forever. I read later that it covers an area half the size of Rhode Island.
Mexico City is HUGE!
Mexico City is HUGE!
Mexico City is HUGE! Our Hotel in Center of Photo
Mexico City is the capital and most popular city in Mexico with a metro population of about 8.5 million. It was founded in 1325 by the Aztec, who built the city on an island in the middle of a lake, which was filled in as the city grew. The last remnants of canals built by the Aztec in the early days of Mexico City can be found in the suburb of Xochimilco, which we visited the following day.
After checking out the hotel, we took advantage of the nice weather and spent a few hours walking around the Zona Reforma and Zona Rosa neighborhoods near our hotel. The neighborhood has been really built up over the past 20 years and is now the most bustling area in Mexico City and home to thousands of shops, restaurants and bars. Along the Calle Amberes in Zona Rosa, we marveled at all the dance clubs that were already packed with kids by 5 pm. Bring earplugs if you go in.
Ave Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa Pedestrian Zone
Ave Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa Pedestrian Zone
Kids Partying in Zona Rosa
After a bite to eat in Zona Rosa, we headed through a flower market on the Ave Paseo de la Reforma before heading back to the hotel for a tour orientation meeting with our guide, Edel Hernandez, and the other people in my tour. Most of the group were older and from various parts of the US (Texas, Florida, California). We learned about all the wonderful things we were going to see. It was a little unsettling to hear about the frequent earthquakes in Mexico City and the procedure we needed to follow in the event one occurred while we were there.
Flower Market on the Ave Paseo de la Reforma
After the orientation meeting, we headed back to our room to catch up on emails and watch some TV before heading to bed.
Itinerary: Morning visit to the National Museum of Anthropology, the largest and most visited museum in all of Mexico with a vast collection of archaeological treasures from pre-Hispanic civilizations. Lunch and walking tour of the Mexico City's vibrant and colorful Coyoacan District. Continue to nearby Xochimilco to visit the floating gardens ("Chinampas") of Xochimilco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The canals offer a window into the past and the vibrant sounds and culture of Mexico today. Remainder of afternoon at leisure. Evening welcome dinner with fellow travelers.
I woke up around 5:15 a.m. The day started with a fantastic breakfast at the hotel. I planned to get up early and work out on the elliptical machine but the gym didn't open till 10:00 am. The hotel also did not have a coffee maker in the room so I had to go down to the lobby to get my morning cup of coffee.
After breakfast, I went for a short walk around the neighborhood and found myself a little out of breath due to the high altitude of Mexico city, which is about 7,300 feet above sea level.
Bead Art at Hotel
Bead & Other Art at Hotel
Life Along Ave Paseo de la Reforma
After breakfast, we met our motorcoach driver, Tiberio, and local guide Laurena for a morning tour of the world famous Archaeological Museum where we learned about the ancient history and culture of Mexico.
Our Mexico City Local Guide Laurena
The scale of the museum is overwhelming. You could spend days here but we focused on the Aztec and Mayan history. If you have more time, the museum begins with the history of anthropology and migration of people to Mexico. Then you can visit exhibit halls featuring the artifacts discovered from all the different civilizations that inhabited Mexico over the past 3,000 years. After our tour, we had an hour to venture around the museum on our own. I took about 500 pictures so it was good that the bus had USB charging ports because my battery had run down to almost zero.
Mexico City - Anthropology Museum
The Peoples of Mexico
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery - Snake & Jaguar
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery - Ball Court
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Aztec Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery - Pakal's Tomb
Mayan Artifacts Gallery - Pakal's Tomb
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery - Pakal's Tomb
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Mayan Artifacts Gallery
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery - Olmec Head
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery - It's a Phallic Symbol
Oaxaca Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Gulf Coast Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Western Cultures Artifacts Gallery
Following our visit to the Anthropology Museum, we had group lunch at a local restaurant in the Coyoacan (Coyote) District called Cenentario 107 where we enjoyed traditional Mexican food. The fresh guacamole was delicious as were my tacos.
After lunch, we took a walking tour through the vibrant and colorful Coyoacan District. We passed the Blue House containing a museum honoring Mexican muralist Diego Rivera and his wife Frida Kahlo, who were Mexico's most celebrated artists in the middle part of the 20th century. The line to get in the museum was long so there was no time to stop. I would have liked to have seen the Leon Trotsky home a few blocks away, but time did not permit.
Coyoacan - Blue House of Artists Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo
We then passed Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, a single-nave church erected in 1592 by the Franciscan order with its lavishly ornamented interior and painted scenes all over the vaulted ceiling.
Coyoacan - Parroquia de San Juan Bautista
Coyoacan - Parroquia de San Juan Bautista
We then walked through the main square and surrounding streets.
Coyoacan - Zocalo
Coyoacan - Zocalo
Coyoacan - Zocalo
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Town Hall
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Town Hall
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Town Hall
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Town Hall
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Town Hall - Coyote Fountain
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Main Gate
Coyoacan - Zocalo - Restaurant
After touring the Coyoacan District, we drove to the outskirts of Mexico City and visited Xochimilco where we toured the floating gardens ("Chinampas") in small boats. The area is a UNESCO World Heritage site containing the last remnants of a vast water transport system built by the Aztecs.
We toured the floating gardens ("Chinampas") in a colorful gondola-like boat (trajineras) while food vendors, artisans and mariachi bands floated past. It was fun to see the traffic jam of boats go by with families and partygoers. It was a very memorable excursion.
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals - Each Boat Has Girl's Name
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
Xochimilco - Aztec Canals
A Few Xochimilco Movies
Xochimilco - Lots of Tour Buses and Shopping
After Xochimilco, we returned to our hotel for a traditional Mexican dinner. Afterwards, we went for a short walk around Zona Rosa, which was abuzz with young people enjoying a Saturday night out on the town.
Itinerary: Tour of Mexico City starting at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico's most prominent pilgrimage site. Continue to TeotihuacƔn, the impressive archaeological site that was once the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas. Visit the Jaguar Temple before continuing to the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon and the Avenue of the Dead flanked by temples and palaces. Stop for lunch on the way to the city center, or Zocalo, to view the murals of Diego Rivera, Mexico's great artist. Evening on own to relax or explore the eclectic gastronomy of Mexico City.
I woke up around 5:30 am and worked on my journal and organized my photos for an hour before diving into a decent breakfast at the hotel. After breakfast, we met our coach driver, Tiberio, and the local guide from yesterday, Laurena, and drove to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico's most prominent pilgrimage site. Two basilicas now stand at the Shrine of Guadalupe—the Old Basilica (1709) and the New Basilica (1976), which houses the cloak Juan Diego, a peasant, was wearing when he saw a vision of the Virgin Mary (Our Lady of Guadalupe) in the 16th century. Visitors can also climb the steps to the Capilla del Cerrito, the original hill chapel built on the site of Juan Diego’s vision. Don't miss the badly-leaning tower of the old basilica, which is now closed to visitors.
Our Lady of Guadalupe
Memory Candles
Capilla del Cerrito
The (Seriously) Leaning Tower of the Old Basilica
Pope John Paul II Statue
Panorama of Main Plaza
Old Basilica (Left)
Main Plaza
The New Basilica
Sunday Mass at the New Basilica
The New Basilica
Juan Diego’s Cloak (Viewed from a Moving Walkway)
After the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, we drove to TeotihuacƔn (too-wok-ah), the impressive Aztec archaeological site that was once the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas. TeotihuacƔn was established in 100 BC and covers 32 square miles.
We visited the Jaguar Temple before continuing to the Pyramid of the Moon, the Avenue of the Dead, and the Pyramid of the Sun.
TeotihuacƔn - Map of Archaeological Site
TeotihuacƔn - Hot Air Balloons
Panorama of Complex
TeotihuacƔn - Jaguar Temple
TeotihuacƔn - Jaguar Temple
TeotihuacƔn - Jaguar Temple
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Moon
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Moon
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Moon
TeotihuacƔn - Avenue of the Dead/Temple of the Sun
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Moon - Steps
TeotihuacƔn - Avenue of the Dead/Temple of the Sun
TeotihuacƔn - Avenue of the Dead/Temple of the Sun
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Sun - Puma Carving
TeotihuacƔn - Temple of the Sun - Steps
After TeotihuacƔn, we stopped for a nice buffet lunch at a place called Gran Teocalli. There were roaming mariachi bands and dancers in Aztec warrior costumes. It was quite entertaining.
Aztec Dance Performance
After lunch, we returned to Mexico City to visit Zocalo, the main square of Mexico City.
From there, we went on a short walking tour of the downtown area, eventually stopping at the Diego Rivera Museum to view the works of Mexico's greatest muralist. The largest mural, "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central" (1947), was rescued from the posh Prada Hotel nearby after a devastating earthquake destroyed the hotel in 1985.
Mexico City - Outskirts on Way to Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo
Mexico City - Zocalo - September 15, 1985 Earthquake Monument
Mexico City - Zocalo - Statue in Park
Diego Rivera Museum - Diego & Wife Frida Kahlo
Mexico City - Zocalo - Statue in Pedestrian Zone
Diego Rivera Museum - "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central" (1947)
Diego Rivera Museum
Diego Rivera Museum
We then drove over to the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral where we spent 45 minutes. Next to the cathedral was a huge archaeological site of former Aztec structures. Once inside the cathedral, we marveled at the architectural style which was adapted from European Baroque style with a Mexican twist. The cathedral floor were sloped downward from the altar and there was a pendulum hanging from the ceiling to monitor movement of the structure. Much of Mexico City is built on reclaimed land and slowly sinking.
Palace of the Arts
Excavation of Aztec Ruins Next to Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Pope John Paul II - Made from Donated Melted Keys
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Musician Near Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
Shopping Outside Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
After visiting the cathedral, we returned to our hotel for a while before venturing back to the Zona Rosa area for a great taco dinner at El Califa. Then it was back to the hotel to pack our bags for the trip to Puebla the next day.
Itinerary: Leave Mexico City for the charming colonial town of Puebla. En route, admire the astonishing sight of the towering snow-capped volcanoes of La Malinche, Popocatepetl and IztaccĆhuatl. Tour a Talavera ceramics factory before arriving in the picturesque Centro Historico de Puebla. Admire gorgeous views of the stunning cathedral, a wealth of beautiful churches, and more than 1,000 colonial buildings adorned with the Talavera ceramic tiles for which the city is famous. With a long culinary history, you can expect a great lunch in Puebla. Afternoon on own to explore the city's charm and exquisite regional cuisine.
I woke up around 5:00 am and worked on my journal for an hour before packing my bags and heading down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 7 am.
Around 8 am, we departed Mexico City for Puebla, which is 80 miles and 2-1/2-hours by bus to the southeast of Mexico City. I am glad we were heading out of town because the rush hour traffic coming in stretched for miles.
Rush Hour Traffic Coming into Mexico City
Outskirts of Mexico City
Puebla was my favorite city on the tour. Campeche was a close second. Puebla is the fourth largest city in Mexico with 3 million inhabitants. Volkswagen has its largest manufacturing plant outside Germany here. Like Mexico City, Puebla city sits some 7,000' above sea level in a valley surrounded by mountains and snow-capped volcanoes (Popocatepel and Iztaccihuatl). Due to its history and architectural styles ranging from Renaissance to Mexican Baroque, the city was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
Around 10 am, we made a rest stop at a gas station and convenience store along the highway halfway between Mexico City and Puebla. We stepped around a half dozen stray dogs to get inside. They were friendly but I didn't pet them. During the stop, I climbed a pedestrian bridge over the highway for some pictures looking back toward Mexico City and ahead toward Puebla.
Rest Stop - Mexico City to Puebla
K9 Welcoming Committee
Looking West to Mexico City - Gas $4.32/Gallon
Pedestrian Bridge Over Highway
Looking West to Mexico City
Looking East to Puebla - Popocatepetl Volcano on Horizon
Around 10:30 am, we arrived in Puebla. One could not help but notice how clean and modern Puebla was.
Popocatepetl Volcano SW of Puebla
Elevated Bike Trail in Puebla
Puebla is famous for the decorative Talavera ceramic tilesthat adorn the exterior of many homes in Mexico. Just outside the historic town center, we toured Uriarte Talaverawhere we learned how the tiles and other household ceramic items are made. I usually don't like this kind of stuff on a tour, but this was an exception.
Puebla - Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory - Rejects
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Uriarte Ceramic Tile Factory
Making Ceramics
Ceramics Drying
Quality Assurance - No Cracks Allowed
Etching Department
Glazing Department
Old Kiln
Post-Firing Finished Product - High Quality
Early in the afternoon following the ceramic factory tour, we arrived in the picturesque Centro Historico de Puebla and had lunch at Mi Viejo Pueblito right on the Zocalo across from the cathedral. We sat out on the balcony and enjoyed the great weather and the spectacular views. One of our tour members was celebrating his 75th birthday, so they brought out a cake for him at the end.
After lunch we walked to our nearby hotel, Quinta Real Puebla, which was a former convent, with a stop at the Cathedral along the way.
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Puebla Cathedral
Around 3 pm, we walked back to Zocalo and boarded an open air sightseeing bus for a tour of the city. We admired gorgeous views of the stunning cathedral, a wealth of beautiful churches, and hundreds of colonial buildings adorned with the Talavera ceramic tiles for which the city is famous. After the bus tour, we continued on a walking tour of the city with our tour director, who pointed out interesting things along the way. The historic center is beautiful so it's no wonder it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Welcome to Puebla!
Historic City Center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla - Charming!
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla - Bullets from Mexican Revolution (1910-1920)
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Streets of Historic City Center of Puebla
Puebla War Memorial
Puebla - Fort Loreto - The Cinco de Mayo Fort
Modern Puebla Skyline
Puebla - Soccer Stadium
Puebla - My Favorite City on the Tour
After the walking tour, we returned to our hotel, then went out for dinner in the evening on our own. We had dinner at a restaurant across from the cathedral that had a subway station motif (Don Pastor Catedral) including a dining car made out of an old Mexico City subway car.
Evening Dinner Spot - Old Mexico City Subway Car
After dinner, we walked around a bit before returning to the hotel to pack our bags for the drive to Veracruz the following day.
Itinerary: Morning journey to romantic Veracruz, one of the largest and historically prominent ports in Mexico. It was founded by the conquistador Hernan Cortes upon his landing in the early 1500s. After lunch, take a walking tour of the bustling downtown. Evening on own to enjoy the vibrant main plaza.
I woke up around 5:30 am and worked on my journal and organized my photos for an hour before diving into a decent breakfast at the hotel. Around 8 am, we boarded our bus and headed east 180 miles to Heroica Veracruz on the Gulf Coast.
Popocatepetl Volcano and Other Scenery
Around 10:30 am, we made an impromptu stop in the town of Xalapa to visit the Museum of Anthropology, which houses a stellar collection of Olmec civilization artifacts. The Olmec civilization is the "mother culture" of Mesoamerica, including the Aztec and Mayans. I think we stopped here today because of the possibility of a wash out at tomorrow's outdoor Olmec cultural stop (La Venta) due to tropical storm Karl in the region. I'm glad we stopped here.
Xalapa Anthropology Museum
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Our Docent
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Origins of Olmec Civilization
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Descendents of the Olmecs
Xalapa Anthropology Museum
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Students with Olmec Head
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Baby with Downs Syndrome - Considered Special
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Hieroglyphics
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Rosetta Stone of Olmec Hieroglyphics
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts - Toys
Xalapa Anthropology Museum - Olmec Artifacts
Around 12:30 pm, we headed to the nearby town of Pacho for a traditional Mexican lunch at Hacienda de Pacho. The hacienda has been in the same family for several hundred years and is currently in the possession of the last surviving member of the family. The hacienda used to grow sugar cane but now grows coffee. The property contains several buildings including a chapel that can be rented for weddings. The property has also been used for filming television programs and movies. Disney recently wrapped up filming here and donated a sugar cane press it used as a prop.
Hacienda de Pacho
Hacienda de Pacho
Hacienda de Pacho - Living Quarters
Hacienda de Pacho - Living Quarters
Hacienda de Pacho - Living Quarters
Hacienda de Pacho - Living Quarters
Hacienda de Pacho - Nice Flower Display
Sugar Cane Press Left Behind by Disney Film Crew
Hacienda de Pacho - Chapel
Hacienda de Pacho - Chapel
Hacienda de Pacho - Coffee Display
Hacienda de Pacho - Coffee Plants
Around 2:30 pm, we continued our journey to Veracruz. We arrived late afternoon and checked into our centrally-located hotel right on the main square of town near the harbor (Gran Hotel Diligencias). Afterward, we went shopping to find a long sleeve shirt for protection against mosquitoes as we got nearer to the tropical zone. I eventually found a colorful shirt to wear. I think I can wear it at home.
My New Anti-Mosquito Shirt
Around 6:30 pm, we met our tour director for a tour of the harborfront. The pier was bustling with people. Of note were some young boys diving for coins that people would throw into the deep, murky water. One boy kept his cache of coins in his mouth.
Welcome to Veracruz!
Veracruz from Hotel Room
Veracruz - Cathedral from Hotel Room Window
Veracruz - Cathedral
Veracruz - Main Square
Veracruz - Main Square
Veracruz - Around Main Square
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
Veracruz - Harbor Front Walk - Souvenirs?
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
Veracruz - Young Men Diving for Coins in the Murky Water
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk - San Juan Fort
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
Veracruz - Harborfront Walk
After the harborfront tour, we went back to the main square to have a few beers and watched the vendors and locals come to the square for an evening a dancing and music, which eventually went on until 2:30 am right under our hotel room window.
Itinerary: Drive from Veracruz to Palenque with stop in Villahermosa's intriguing outdoor La Venta park to visit the giant Olmec heads from the settlement of La Venta. Enter through a zoo, devoted to animals and culture from Tabasco and other nearby regions. The Olmecs are known as the earliest major civilization in Mesoamerica. It has been proposed that people from Europe, Africa and Asia may have lived in this "new world" before it was even discovered by Columbus in 1492. Continue to the town of Palenque.
Daily Journal
Weather: 88F and overcast
Gate1 Daily Itinerary
Today's Tour Route
I woke up around 5:15 am and worked on my journal for an hour before packing my bags and heading down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 6:30 am.
Veracruz Cathedral from Hotel Room at 6 AM
Around 7:30 am, we departed Veracruz for a long driving day to Palenque, which is 360 miles southeast of Veracruz in the state of Tabasco. Tropical storm Karl passed through Palenque a day earlier so we were praying for good weather ahead (and it was).
Today was to the longest driving day of the tour. But it was welcome after 5 days of nonstop touring and gave everyone a chance to catch up on their sleep, get to know each other better, post pictures to their Facebook accounts, and touch base with loved ones back home. The drive was relaxing and pleasant. Along the way, our guide played History Channel and Discovery Channel documentaries on the history of the Aztec and Mayan culture. Very educational and entertaining.
Around 10 am, we stopped for a bathroom break at a gas station called Km118, where I saw a Harley motorcycle gang. I tried to tell them I was from Milwaukee, where Harleys are made, but the language barrier made it difficult. Overall, not many people spoke English in the areas we visited on this trip so my Google Translate app came in handy.
Around noon, we stopped outside the city of Coatzacoalcos for lunch at a restaurant called El Triunfo. The lunch was decent. Behind the restaurant was a small petting zoo. We visited it after lunch. It had the usual farm animals, and some more exotic animals like an alligator and peacocks. It seemed that the animals got aroused every time I petted them. I didn't like that undomesticated animals like a coati and a raccoon were caged and if I could have opened their cages and set them free, I would have. But perhaps these animals were once family pets and could not survive in the wild on their own.
El Triunfo - Petting Zoo
El Triunfo - Petting Zoo
El Triunfo - Petting Zoo
We got back on the bus after lunch at 1:15 pm and continued our journey toward Palenque. Around 1:30 pm, we crossed from the state of Veracruz into the state of Tabasco and proceeded two hours to the city of Villahermosa.
Around 3:30 pm, we stopped in Villahermosa at the La Venta Park, a pre-Columbian archaeological site of the Olmec civilization. It is important because the Olmec civilization is the "parent" culture of Mesoamerica and its influence on the later development of the region is immeasurable. Despite the 94F temperature and high humidity, we all were dressed in long pants and shirts and fully coated in insect repellant to ward off mosquitoes. Our local guide Raul led us through the park where we admired ancient Olmec stone carvings. There were also a lot of wild animals in various enclosures, such as a black jaguar and a typical yellow/black spotted jaguar. I was a little upset because the enclosures seemed small and the black jaguar had worn a path through the grass from pacing his cage. I am definitely going to mention this to Gate1. Otherwise, we were entertained by the monkeys and a really long line of ants carrying bits of leaves back to their hill.
La Venta Park
La Venta Park - Long Clothing to Protect Against Mosquitos
La Venta - Our Local Guide
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts - Tomb
La Venta Park - Olmec Artifacts
La Venta Park - Sacred Ceiba Tree
La Venta Park - Animals in Mini Zoo
La Venta Park - Movie of Hardworking Ants
Around 4:30 pm, we board our bus and continued two hours farther to Palenque. Around 5:30 pm we were stopped briefly at a police checkpoint on highway. They were looking for guns, drugs and illegal immigrants since we were very close to the Guatemala border. When the police realized we were just an American tour group, they waved us through. Our tour director told us not to speak Spanish with the police in the event they came aboard the bus. We came across several of these checkpoints throughout the trip.
Around 6:30 p.m., we arrived in Palenque and checked into our wonderful hotel, Villa Mercedes Palenque. We then went out for dinner in our hotel restaurant since we were out in the middle of nowhere but close to the sites we were going to see the following day.
After dinner, I went back to my room and did laundry for the first time on this trip, making sure I washed enough clothes to avoid having to do laundry again. However, I ended up doing laundry more often because it was so hot an humid, I sweated like crazy and there was no way to wear clothes more than one day. Fortunately, I had a lot Dri-Fit clothing that dries fast.
Itinerary: One of the tour highlights is today's visit to the soaring jungle swathed temples of Palenque, a national treasure! Abandoned for unknown reasons, the vast, mysterious and enchanting ruined city of Palenque is one of the most beautiful Mayan city-states in the world, declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. On the tour, see the highlights of this mystical site -- the Temple of the Cross Group, Temple of Inscriptions and the Grand Palace -- while you listen to sounds of howler monkeys in the distance. It was here that archaeologists discovered the tomb of the Mayan King Pakal. Today, Palenque is filled with hundreds of ruined buildings, huge stones and stucco pyramids with intricate carvings and hieroglyphs. Visit the treasure filled museum.
I woke up around 6:00 am and read up on the fantastic sites we would be seeing later in the morning. Then I went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 7:00 am. Afterwards, I played with the hotel parrot, Pepe, until it was time to board the bus and head to Palenque. Pepe bit me in the finger but did not break the skin. The hotel staff said he likes to (gently) bite ears and eat buttons off of shirts, so I had to be extra careful when he climbed onto my shoulder.
My New Friend Pepe
Pepe Bites and Eats Buttons
At 8:15 am, we were on the bus and bound for the Palenque Archaeological Site, a collection of soaring jungle swathed Mayan temples. Abandoned for unknown reasons, the vast, mysterious and enchanting ruined city of Palenque is one of the most beautiful Mayan city-states in the world, declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Palenque was built in the Classic Period between 100 BC and 799 AD. We met our guide, Mr. Gato (cat), at the front gate. He had deep blue eyes like a siamese cat, hence the nickname.
Our Palenque Guide Mr. Gato - Must Be the Eyes
On the tour, we saw the highlights of this mystical site, including the Temple of the Cross Group, Temple of Inscriptions and the Grand Palace. It was here that archaeologists discovered the tomb of the Mayan King Pakal. Today, Palenque is filled with hundreds of ruined buildings, huge stones and stucco pyramids with intricate carvings and hieroglyphs. We visited Pakal's Tomb (contents at Archaeological Museum in Mexico City), Palace of Inscriptions, Grand Palace and Aqueduct, Temple of the Sun, Palace of the Cross, and the Ball Court/North Group.
Palenque is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Palenque - Good Signage
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions/Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions/Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions/Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Pakal's Tomb
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions
Palenque - Temple of the Inscriptions
Palenque - Royal Palace
Palenque - Temple of the Sun
Palenque - Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Panoramic View from Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Panoramic View from Temple of the Cross
Palenque - Ball Court & North Group
After the temples, the group split up to go to the Reina Roja Museum(King Pakal's wife). Half of us walked the trails through the jungle to see the ruins of various homes and the walls surrounding the complex. The other half took the bus directly to the museum, which contained findings from Queen Roja's tomb and other artifacts found in Palenque.
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Nice Waterfall
Palenque - Nice Waterfall
Palenque - Ruins of Dwellings
Palenque - Sacred Ceiba Tree
Palenque - Sacred Ceiba Tree
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum (Pakal's Wife)
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Queen's Tomb Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Palenque - Reina Roja Museum - Palenque Artifacts
Following the visit to Palenque, we went back to our hotel to spend the afternoon around the pool enjoying the surroundings.
Hot & Sweaty, Time for Laundry and the Pool
In the evening we went to Restaurante Bajlum for a six-course classic Mayan meal unique to Palanque. The restaurant was run by a Mayan family (Francisco and Hilda), who are trying to maintain Mayan traditions and heritage. Francisco gave us a run down of what we were eating for each course while Hilda worked behind the scenes and their son helped serve.
Look at All the Birds!
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
Our meal started with a blended drink called Jaguar's Blood, which reminded me of a frozen margarita. Our appetizers were a variety a tortillas made from tubers and from corn with a white sauce and green hot sauce. We then had a shallot soup and guava fresca beverage. The three meat courses were wild turkey with a white tomato sauce and tender corn, whitetail venison with guacamole sauce, and javelina with a sauce made from flowers. For dessert we had a torte made from sweet potato, corn milk, and duck eggs with a chocolate sauce. It was all delicious.
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
During the dinner, the family cat came out to greet us. Her name was Mis, which is Mayan for cat. At the end of dinner, Hilda came out from the kitchen to thank us for coming and wish us well on our journey.
Owner cat "Mis," Mayan for Cat
Restaurante Bajlum (Jaguar) in Palenque
After dinner, we went back to the hotel to pack for the journey to Campeche the following day.
Itinerary: Morning departure for UNESCO World Heritage city of Campeche. Lunch stop before arriving to the charming port town originally built as a walled fort to thwart pirate attacks. Afternoon walking tour of the colonial-era city with baroque Spanish architecture, cobblestone streets and a charming historic district.
Weather: 86F and partly sunny. Tropical storm Karl was moving through the area.
Gate1 Daily Itinerary
Today's Tour Route
I woke up around 6:15 am and went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 7:00 am. By 8 am we were on the bus headed 220 miles northeast from Palenque to Campeche, located on the Gulf of Mexico in the Yucatan Peninsula.
Campeche is a UNESCO World Heritage and a charming port town originally built as a walled fort to thwart pirate attacks. This Spanish town was founded in 1540 on the site of a Mayan village (Kimpech), the remains of which are still visible. Pirates frequently raided Campeche and razed it in 1663, slaughtering its residents, but trade flourished again after the Spanish rebuilt it as a walled city. In the 18th century, Campeche was one of three ports on the Gulf and thrived on its monopoly of YucatƔn Peninsula trade.
At 11:15 am, halfway between Palenque and Campeche, we stopped in the town of Escarcega at a interesting restaurant called Asadero La Higuera for a bathroom break and quesadilla snacks.
Asadero La Higuera - Bathroom & Quesadilla Stop
Asadero La Higuera - Vaqueros on a Donkey
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Asadero La Higuera - Turkeys
Asadero La Higuera - Quesadilla Station
Asadero La Higuera - Loving Mexico
Around 1 pm, we stopped for lunch at El Timon restaurant in the town of Champoton. After lunch, we had some free time so I walked the beach and picked up a small cache of seashells to bring home with me.
Champoton - Lunch Stop
Champoton - Lunch Stop - Shell Souvenirs
Champoton - Lunch Stop - Shell Souvenirs
Champoton - Mayan Warrior Who Twice Fended Off Spanish Attacks
Around 3:45 pm, we arrived in the Gulf Coast port city of Campeche. We checked into our hotel, Hotel Plaza Campeche, then walked the city on our own for an hour before joining the group for a tour of the harbor front, city walls and principal sites before being turned loose for dinner on our own. The character of the historic district is maintained through strict rules. The city provides building materials and approved color schemes. Campeche is absolutely lovely.
Welcome to Campeche!
Campeche - Map of Historic Center - Most Dining on Calle 59 (Highlighted)
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Campeche Cathedral
Campeche - Campeche Cathedral
Campeche - Campeche Cathedral
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Calle 59
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Calle 59
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Calle 59
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Gate at Calle 59
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Long Line at Bank
Campeche - Harborfront
Campeche - Harborfront
Campeche - Harborfront
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Calle 59
After the tour, we wandered the historic district where we had dinner on Calle 59 where many bars and restaurants are located.
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center - Calle 59
Campeche - Streets of Historic Center
After dinner, we headed back to the hotel for a margarita and then to bed. This touring can be exhausting!
I woke up around 6:00 am and went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 7:00 am. By 8 am, we were on the bus headed 110 miles northeast from Campeche to Merida, with an unscheduled stops at a Mayan cemetery and a scheduled stop at the temple ruins of Uxmal.
At the request of several people in my group, we stopped at 9:15 am in Pomuch to visit a traditional Mayan cemetery. It was not for the squeamish. There were a lot of skulls and bones on display as well as the occasional half-decomposed corpse. According to Mayan tradition, after you die, your body is put in a vault for a minimum of 3 years till your body decomposes. After your body decomposes, your bones are moved to an open air vestibule above the decomposition vault where they remain until they break down. Then the broken down bones are replaced by another family member. The cemetery was macabre but interesting. This is the Mayan cycle of life.
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Pomuch - Traditional Mayan Cemetery
Traditional Mayan Home in Pomuch - Rounded Corners
We continued to the town of Uxmal for a late morning tour of its Mayan archaeological site, which was constructed during the classical period and considered one of the most important archaeological sites of Maya culture. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Maya chronicles say that Uxmal was founded about 500 AD. Most of the Uxmal's major construction took place while Uxmal was the capital of a Late Classic Maya state around 850-925 AD. After about 1000 AD, Toltec invaders took over, and most building ceased by 1100 AD.
Welcome to Uxmal!
Uxmal is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Despite the 92°F heat, we climbed several pyramids and other ruins with our local guide Ricardo taking in spectacular views of the Puuc-style architecture. Stops included the Pyramid of the Magician, the Nunnery Quadrangle, the Pyramid of the Priest which is still being excavated, the Grand Pyramid, and lastly, the Governor's Palace.
Our Uxmal Guide Ricardo
Uxmal Location
Uxmal - Pyramid of the Magician (Back Side)
Uxmal - Pyramid of the Magician (Back Side)
Uxmal - Pyramid of the Magician (Front Side)
Uxmal - Pyramid of the Magician (Front Side)
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Pyramid of the Magician from Nunnery Quadrangle
Uxmal - Ball Court and Governor's Palace from Nunnery Quadrangle
Itinerary: Merida has been the cultural capital of the entire Yucatan Peninsula since its conquest by the Spanish. The exploration of the city begins at the Plaza de la Independencia, bordered by the fortress like 16th century Merida Cathedral that was built using relics from ancient Mayan temples. See the glories of the city's distinctive architecture at the ornate 15th century Casa Montejo, a former family mansion. Walk to the local gathering place at centralized Palacio de Gobierno; view the remarkable collection of murals depicting the conquest of the Yucatan. Time to wander on your own. Later, meet a local family in their home. Share a delectable home-cooked dinner and hear about local customs and daily life in Merida and Mexico.
I woke up around 6:00 am and went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 7:30 am.
We went back across the street to Walmart where I bought another pair of quick drying shorts and two reusable shopping bags that I can never find in Milwaukee. Everything at the store cost half of what I pay in the US.
At 10 am, the group met in the hotel lobby, boarded the bus and headed to the historic center of Merida for a walking tour. Merida has been the cultural capital of the entire Yucatan Peninsula since its conquest by the Spanish in 1542. Our local guide Gabriella, led our city tour.
Our first stop was the Monumento a la Patria, the monument to the homeland, which was inaugurated in April 1956 under the command of the Colombian sculptor RĆ³mulo Rozo. The monument has more than 300 hand-carved figures representing the history of Mexico from the founding of TenochtitlĆ”n, until the middle of the 20th century.
Merida - Monumento a la Patria
Merida - Monumento a la Patria
Merida - Monumento a la Patria
Merida - Monumento a la Patria
Merida - Monumento a la Patria
We then got back on our bus and drove to the center of town to the Plaza de la Independencia, bordered by the 16th-century Merida Cathedral that was built using relics from ancient Mayan temples. We also saw 15th century Casa Montejo, a former family mansion and the Governor's Palace (Palacio de Gobierno) to view a remarkable collection of murals depicting the conquest of the Yucatan.
Welcome to Merida!
Merida - Plaza Grande
Merida - Plaza Grande
Merida - Plaza Grande - Public Benches
Merida - Getting Ready for "Day of the Dead" (11/1 & 11/2)
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Cathedral
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Cathedral
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Cathedral
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Stones The Spanish Repurposed from Mayan Buildings
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande
- City Hall
Merida - Plaza Grande
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace - History of Yucatan in Murals
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace - History of Yucatan in Murals
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace - History of Yucatan in Murals
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace - History of Yucatan in Murals
Merida - Buildings & Streets Bordering Plaza Grande - Governor's Palace - History of Yucatan in Murals
After the tour, we walked down a colorful commercial street (Calle 6) for lunch at Museo Gastronomia Yucateca Restaurante, and then had time to wander the streets on our own, admiring the city's distinctive Spanish colonial architecture and patwork of pastel-colored buildings. Lunch was great with plenty of margaritas and the delicious cheese ice cream, which nobody liked except for me a few others in the group.
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Calle 6
Merida - Lunch Stop - Museo de la Gastronomia Yucateca - Cheese Ice Cream
The entire group went back to the hotel while I trudged north to the hotel through the east side of downtown from Plaza Grande in the 92F heat. I really needed a good walk after three margaritas and my cheese ice cream dessert. There really wasn't much to see in Merida outside the historic center but it was a good 5-mile walk.
Merida - Walk to Hotel After Lunch
Merida - Walk to Hotel After Lunch
Merida - Walk to Hotel After Lunch
Merida - Walk to Hotel After Lunch
In the evening, we went to the home of a local family for a fantastic Mexican dinner. After dinner, we got a tour of the home, which was quite modest by Mexico standards. When we got to the bedroom, there was a hammock in it. This is a very typical in Mexican homes; some homes don't even have beds because of the heat. Our host Carmen demonstrated how to get in and out of the hammock. It was quite entertaining.
Merida - Hostess Carmen Giving a Hammock Demonstration
Merida - Group Photo with Our Dinner Hosts
We got back to the hotel around 7:30 pm and went out for a couple cocktails before returning to the hotel to pack our bags and get ready for the trip to Chichen Itza the following day.
I woke up around 6:00 am and went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant.
At 9 am, we checked out of the hotel and boarded the bus for the 90-mile drive east to Chichen Itza, with a stop halfway in between in Izamal. Izamal is one of Mexico's "Pueblos Magicos" or Magical Towns. It is stunning both in the brilliant yellows which color the main square, but also the rich cultural ties that connect the past to the present.
As we drove into town, our local guide Jose was in front of the bus pedaling furiously to beat us to the meeting point. He won.
Izamal - Local Guide Jose
Before the arrival of the Spanish, Izamal was a huge Maya city, on par with Chichen Itza. Instead of dismantling the pagan pyramids, the Franciscan monks merely repurposed them as foundations for Christian edifices. The great yellow monastery (St. Anthony's) was built on top of the original Maya acropolis. The Franciscans recycled the stones from so many Maya sites into building material for the churches. Today it’s safe to assume that most of Izamal’s 16th-century buildings were built from Maya ruins.
Welcome to Izamal!
We had a hot and sweaty 1-1/2 hour walking tour of the city center admiring all the yellow buildings, and stopping by Pyramid Kinich Kakmo and St. Anthony's Monastery along the way.
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Repurposed Stones from Mayan Buildings
Izamal - Building on Plaza Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Izamal - Bright Yellow Buildings of Historic Izamal
Pyramid Kinich Kakmo, the pyramid to the Maya Sun God, a pyramid of the early Classic age, most likely built between A.D. 400-600. It is one of the most important structures of Mesoamerica. Its base measures 656' X 590' with a height of 110'. The location of the pyramid was influenced by the presence of a cave or limestone extraction pit, an important sacred place for the Mesoamerican cultures.
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo - Iguana
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
Izamal - Pyramid Kinich Kakmo
After climbing the Pyramid, we made our way to St. Anthony's Monastery on the other side of town. St. Antony’s was built in 1561 and stands as one of the earliest Catholic monasteries in the Americas. It is a beautiful structure and boasts the second largest monastic court in the world after St. Peter’s in Rome.
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
Izamal - St. Anthony's Monastery
We had lunch as a local restaurant, Restaurante Kinich El Sabor De Izamal, before boarding our bus at 1:30 pm and continuing another 1-1/2 hours to Chichen Itza. Around 3:30 p.m. we arrived in Chichen Itza and checked into our hotel, Mayaland Hotel and Bungalows. We had our own bungalow. The thatched roof and mosquito mesh surrounding each bed were nice touches.
Welcome to Chichen Itza!
Map of Chichen Itza Region
Upon checking in, I immediately showered and washed all the clothes I'd worn because they were all sweated up from climbing pyramids and hiking around Izamal. After that, I poked around the massive resort, eventually winding up at the lodge bar till 6:00 p.m. when we had our Farewell Dinner in an air-conditioned room.
Chichen Itza - Entertainment at Farewell Dinner
At the end of our dinner, our guide for the following day at Chichen Itza dropped by the hotel with a Mayan dance troupe. The troupe performed several traditional dances and posed for pictures with us.
Chichen Itza - Mayan Dance Troupe
Chichen Itza - Mayan Dance Troupe
Chichen Itza - Mayan Dance Troupe
Chichen Itza - Mayan Dance Troupe
Chichen Itza - Mayan Dance Troupe - Do I Look Scary?
Movies of Mayan Dance Troupe
After dinner, we went back to the room and packed our bags for the trip to Cancun the following day.
I woke up around 6:00 am and went down to breakfast at the hotel restaurant by 7 am.
At 7:45 am, we checked out of the hotel and boarded the bus to Chichen Itza. Upon arrival, we met our guide Abel and began a 1-1/2 hour tour of the site.
The entire site is dominated by the towering walls of the dramatic Temple of Kukulkan, also known as El Castillo, with its 365 steps built for each day of the year. Surrounding El Castillo are a number of other smaller temples including the Temple of the Warriors, the Ball Court, and the cenote (sinkhole).
Chichen Itza - Map of Archaeological Park
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo)
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo)
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo)
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo)
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo)
Chichen Itza - Temple of Kukulkan (El Castillo) - Listen to the Echo of a Singing Bird
Chichen Itza - Temple of a Thousand Warriors
Chichen Itza - Columns in the Temple of a Thousand Warriors
Chichen Itza - Eagle and Jaguars Platform
Chichen Itza - The Grand Ball Court
Chichen Itza - The Grand Ball Court
Chichen Itza - The Grand Ball Court
Chichen Itza - The Grand Ball Court
Chichen Itza - Cenote (Sinkhole)
Chichen Itza - Souvenirs - Same Junk Seen Everywhere Else
Around 11:30 am, we arrived at our lunch stop in Villadolid called Selva Maya. In addition to lunch, it features a 150' deep cenote that you walk down to by a long wooden stairway. Once at the bottom you can enter the water by stairway or dive off a 15' high platform. I dove in several times. I also swam under a waterfall pouring down from the rim of the sinkhole. It was pretty cool. I had a waterproof camera case that came in very handy for pictures.
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya
Villadolid - Swimming in the Cenote at Selva Maya -
Waterfall
Around 1:30 pm, we got back on the bus and headed 2-1/2 hours east to Cancun. Along the way, it rained hard along with thunder and lightning. Although it rained a little bit the previous night, this was really the first daytime rain we had had over the course of the entire trip. Nobody seemed to care though because tomorrow we were all going home.
We arrived in Cancun around 3:15 pm but the traffic in the hotel zone was so heavy, it took 45 minutes to reach our hotel on the north end of the hotel strip. At 4:00 pm, we checked into our all-inclusive beachfront resort hotel, Occidental Costa. We said goodbye to our motorcoach driver, Tiberio.
Cancun - Hotel Occidental Costa
Cancun - Hotel Occidental Costa
We had a farewell drink with the tour group around 5:30 pm. Afterward, it was back to the room to pack my luggage and get some sleep since we had to leave for the airport at 3:30 the following morning. I almost wished we had booked another day at the resort to enjoy all of its amenities.
Itinerary: Transfer to the airport for your departure flight.
Daily Journal
Weather: 85F and sunny in Cancun. 44F and partly cloudy in Milwaukee.
Well, the 13-day Mexico vacation had finally come to an end. All I had to do was fly from Cancun to Mexico City, then Mexico City to Houston, then Houston to Milwaukee.
I tossed and turned all night, eventually getting up at 3 am. We met our Gate1 driver, Arturo, in the hotel lobby at 3:30 am and made our way to the Cancun airport 20 minutes away. Our tour director, Edel, also rode with us.
We arrived at the airport at 4 am and sat for 2-1/2 hours before boarding our flight to Mexico City. For the first time in a long time, there was no overhead space for my bag so I had to stuff it under the seat in front of me.
Our Aeromexico flight departed Cancun at 7:00 am and arrived on time at 9:30 am in Mexico City.
Mexico City International Airport
After a 1-1/2 hour layover in Mexico City, our Aeromexico flight to Houston departed Mexico City at 11:00 am and arrived in Houston at 1:16 pm.
Hasta la Vista, Mexico City!
Mexico City to Houston - 2 Hr 15 Min Flight
Hello, Houston!
I said goodbye to Joe in Houston and waited 5 hours for my United Airlines flight to Milwaukee. My flight departed Houston at 6:00 pm and arrived in Milwaukee around 9:00 pm.
Hello, Milwaukee!
The weather today started with a balmy 85F in Cancun and dropped to 44F by the time I got to Milwaukee. I guess I'll just have to let the memories of the wonderful time in Mexico keep me warm over the coming winter months.
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