Monday, November 08, 2021

Chris Trost's 2021 Sicily Tour


Palermo - Monreale - Cefalu - Erice - Agrigento - Giardini Naxos - Mt. Etna - Taormina - Syracuse - Piazza Armerina

September 17 - 26, 2021


Italian Flag



This trip was postponed for 1-1/2 years because of the COVID-19 pandemic but was well worth the wait.  We got a decent dose of history, nature, and culture while experiencing interesting sights, amazing scenery, decent weather, friendly people, great food, and comfortable accommodations.  Once again, I traveled with Gate1Travel on its Classic Sicily tour.

Before this tour, I spent 14 days on Gate1Travel's 12-day tour of Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, and Slovenia and two days on my own in Venice.  I also arrived in Palermo two days early to take in the sights on my own before the rest of the tour group arrived.  It was a good thing because I got to experience a lot more of Palermo than I would have otherwise.

This blog will focus just on the Sicily tour.  There is a separate blog covering the Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia & Venice portion of my trip. 

How Long Was Your Trip? When Did You Go?  Where Did You Go?  The Sicily tour lasted 10 days from September 17-26, 2021.  I spent:
  • 4-1/2 days in Palermo with excursions to Monreale, Cefalu, and Erice
  • 2 days in Agrigento with an excursion to the Valley of the Temples
  • 2-1/2 days in Giardini Naxos with excursions to Mt. Etna, Taormina, Syracuse, and Piazza Armerina
  • 1 day traveling back to the US
Did You Do This on Your Own or with a Tour Company?  I took an escorted Gate1Travel tour.  It was nicely paced and hit all the major stops. Our tour manager Viviana (Vivi) Bensi, was knowledgeable, helpful, and entertaining, as was our driver (Franco) and local guides.  My group was the first Gate1 group to come to Sicily post-COVID.

Our Excellent Gate1 Tour Manager "Vivi"
My tour group had 20 people. Most came from various parts of the US, primarily  California, Texas and Florida.  We were a very seasoned group of travelers and got along well. 

How Did You Get There and Back?  The tour of Sicily was the second leg of a three-week trip. The first trip ended in Venice so I only had to fly about 500 miles from Venice to Palermo via Rome.  On the way home, I flew 700 miles from Palermo to Munich, Germany, then another 4,500 miles to Chicago.  So total air miles on this trip was 5,700.  Once on the ground in Sicily, my tour group took a leisurely, relaxing counterclockwise 600-mile drive around the island. 

Venice/Sicily/USA - 5,700 Miles

Tour Video from Gate1
Was It Easy Navigating Your Way Around? Yes, because we were situated either in the heart of town within walking distance to most everything, or shuttled by motorcoach to each of our destinations.  Reasonably-priced local buses and taxis were also options.

Our Comfortable Gate1 Motor Coach
Where Did You Stay?  We stayed in a number of 4-star and 5-star hotels. Most were in or close to the center of town.  All hotels and resorts were modern, clean, and comfortable, with excellent, full-service restaurants and great Internet.  All had fitness centers but few opened before 8 am so I didn't get the amount of exercise I wanted.

The electricity situation was identical to the other countries I had been to over the previous two weeks (230V, 50Hz). If coming from the US, you'll need a voltage adapter to avoid burning out your devices if they don't already operate at a higher current.  You'll also need C and F plug adapters to fit the round-peg wall outlets.  

Meals?  Most of our meals were included in the price of the tour.  Each offered an excellent American and Continental breakfast buffet. When we had group dinners, we feasted on bountiful buffets of western and local food.

How was the Weather?  The weather was quite warm most of the time. On some days,  temperatures hit the 90s Fahrenheit but cooled off considerably at night.  We were instructed to wear long pants (and no bare shoulders or short skirts for the ladies) on certain days when the dress code required it.  Otherwise, it was shorts and t-shirts every day.  I did laundry in the bathroom sink almost every day as I packed really light and brought a lot of quick-drying shirts and undergarments. 
Sicily Weather in September
What was the Time Difference? Sicily is in the Central European Time zone (GMT/UTC +01:00), which is 7 hours ahead of US Central Time (GMT/UTC −06:00).

What Was the Currency? What Were Prices Like?  Sicily's currency is the Euro.  The cheapest money exchange is at a bank ATM, which can be found everywhere.  I typically withdraw money at the airport upon arrival, but in this case, I had a lot of Euros from Slovenia where the Euro is also used.  
What Did This Whole Trip Cost You?  It was neither cheap nor expensive.  I spent $3,400 in total, or about $340 per day.  It was money well spent and an excellent travel value.  I paid most of the trip cost ($3,000) before I left the US by advance-booking hotels and sightseeing tours.  Once on the ground, I spent another $400 on items not included in the Gate1 trip cost:  hotels, sightseeing, meals and tips, and international cell phone charges.


Special Trip Considerations.   
  • COVID 19.  Proof of COVID vaccination was a precondition to travel and masking was required on planes and every indoor venue we encountered. A negative COVID test  taken within 72 hours of entering Italy and the US was also required.  The CDC COVID vaccination card was sufficient proof of inoculation and a doctor's written or emailed letter showing a negative test result was also accepted.  Gate1 arranged for a doctor to come to our hotel and do swab tests as needed, but the cost was on us ($20-$25).  Certified results were emailed to us within a few hours and a hard copy of the certificate could be picked up or printed at the hotel front desk.
  • Air Quality.  Air quality was generally quite good all over Sicily.  But if you are bothered by smog in big cities like Palermo, you may need some sort of protection.
  • Physical Condition.  I recall several people saying they wished they were in better shape.  We traversed a lot of steps, uneven surfaces, and steep grades, exacerbated by high temperatures and humidity.  If you have mobility issues, this is probably not the tour for you.  
Any Parting Comments?  Yes. Travel is an adventure. It’s an opportunity to experience, learn and appreciate how people around the world live. While I’m always happy to come home at the end, I never come back the same person.

Following is a day-by-day account of my trip. Each day starts with an overview of what we did, followed by my daily journal. You can just read on or go back to the Table of Contents above and jump to a specific day or topic of interest.

Enjoy!


Itinerary:  Travel to Palermo from Venice via Rome.  Rest of day at leisure to explore Palermo on own.  The energetic city of Palermo is the capital of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.

About Sicily from Lonely Planet
About Palermo from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal


Weather: 91F and sunny.

We got up early and caught the 7:15 am ATVO Airport Express Bus #35 from Piazzale Roma to Venice Marco Polo Airport. We had planned to be on the 8:15 am bus, but the driver allowed us to change to the earlier bus so we wouldn't have to wait in the rain another hour. That was a nice birthday gift.

By 7:45 am, we were at the airport waiting a few hours for the Alitalia check-in counter to open. Once we checked in, we waited at our gate till boarding at 10:30 am By 11:00 am, we were on our way to Rome.

We arrived in Rome around 12:10 pm and waited 1 hour for our next flight to Palermo. We departed for Palermo around 1:15 pm and arrived in Palermo around 2:25 pm. We collected our bags and met our Gate1 driver in the arrival hall for the journey to our hotel in the center of Palermo. Not only did the locals drive like lunatics, so did our driver. I think we broke a land speed record on our way from the airport to downtown Palermo. I distinctly recall reaching for the seatbelt and buckling myself in. At least we made it safely.

Palermo, Sicily

In the early evening, we ventured south from our hotel down Via Roma, one of the main drags through town, to one of the bustling pedestrian zones in Old Town. Since restaurants in Palermo don't start serving dinner till 7 pm, we had to settle for a light snack to tie us over. The pedestrian zone was very, very lively with people strolling about or enjoying happy hour cocktails in open-air patios. We didn't feel like the traditional three-course Sicilian dinner, so settled on pasta at one of many outdoor cafes in the pedestrian zone.
Blue Line Shows Our Evening Walking Route

After dinner, we wandered the streets through several neighborhoods back to the hotel. It felt good to be back at the hotel relatively early to get a good night's sleep before beginning an aggressive touring schedule the next day.


Itinerary:  Day of leisure to explore Palermo on own.  Having been the crossroads of civilizations for millennia, Palermo delivers a dizzying, complex mix of Byzantine mosaics, Arabesque domes, baroque churches and frescoed cupolas surrounded by soaring mountains and the deep blue Mediterranean Sea.  Founded by the Phoenicians in 2,700 BC, it was later controlled by Carthage, the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs and the Normans.   Today, Palermo is known not only for its embarrassingly rich history and architecture, but also its art, culture and gastronomy.

About Palermo from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 82F, partly sunny with occasional rain, and quite humid.

We got up early and had breakfast at 7 am in our hotel. The breakfast room was crowded with a French tour group so it took almost 20 minutes to get served. Plus, plates had to be individually prepared due to COVID. For the rest of our stay, we made sure we got to breakfast 15 minutes earlier to avoid the wait.

By 8:00 am, we were on a walking tour of Palermo that I created at home before the trip. We headed south from the hotel down Via Roma.

Palermo - Walking Tour Map - Old Town

Our first stop was St Domenico Church, the most important church in Palermo next to the Cathedral. This Baroque church was built in 1458 and updated several times through 1853. Many famous Sicilians are entombed here.

Palermo - St Domenico Church

Palermo - Via Roma - Beautiful Architecture

Palermo - Via Roma - Beautiful Architecture

We continued down the Via Roma to Quattro Canti to see three UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio church, Chiesa di San Cataldo and Fontana Pretoria) and one of the most spectacular churches I have ever seen, Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers.   
  • Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio was completed in 1185 and is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture.  The church was built to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for her protection and to give the Greek Byzantine monks a home church. 
  • The Church of San Cataldo is a Catholic church erected in 1154 as a notable example of Arab-Norman architecture, which flourished in Sicily under Norman rule on the island.
  • Fontana Pretoria is a spectacular fountain decorated with sculptures of the Twelve Olympians and other mythological and allegorical figures.  The fountain was built in 1554 in Florence and moved to Palermo to settle a debt in 1574.   In the 18th and 19th centuries, due to the nudity of statues, the square where the fountain is located was popularly known as Piazza Della Vergogna (Square of Shame).  This site is a must-see.
  • We found the Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers by accident across from Fontana Pretoria.  It is a soaring, 17th-century Baroque Catholic church containing exquisite marble, frescos, and statuary.  
Palermo - Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio

Palermo - Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio

Palermo - Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio & Chiesa di San Cataldo

Palermo - Fontana Pretoria

Palermo - Fontana Pretoria

Palermo - Fontana Pretoria

Palermo - Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers

Palermo - Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers

Palermo - Church of Saint Joseph of the Theatine Fathers

We then wandered over to Mercato Ballaro to shop and people watch. Along the way, we stumbled across the amazing Chiesa del Gesu church, another accidental but welcome find. Chiesa del Gesu is considered one of Palermo's most extravagant and breathtaking baroque churches. Prepare to be amazed because the detail inside is awe-inspiring. The Jesuits first built a church on this site from 1564 to1578 and incorporated it into a larger church in 1633. The church's facade is relatively restrained, which is typical of the late 16th century.

Palermo - Chiesa del Gesu 

Palermo - Chiesa del Gesu 

Palermo - Chiesa del Gesu 

Mercato Ballaro is a lively outdoor market that snakes through several city blocks and pulsates with activity well into the early evening. It's a fascinating mix of noises, smells, and street life, and the cheapest place for everything from Chinese padded bras to fresh produce, fish, meat, olives, and cheese. We made our way through the Saturday crowd marveling at the vast array of items for sale.

Palermo - Mercato Ballaro

Palermo - Mercato Ballaro

Palermo - Mercato Ballaro

Palermo - Mercato Ballaro

Palermo - Mercato Ballaro - Eggplant & Peaches

We then walked a mile or so to the westernmost part of our walk to tour two more UNESCO World Heritage sites, San Giovanni degli Eremiti monastery and the Norman Palace. Along the way, we came across ruins of the former city walls, Porta Sant'Agata, and an interesting flea market at Piazza Ritiro San Pietro that was akin to an outdoor Goodwill.

The origins of the Porta Sant'Agata are unknown, but according to legend, it existed in 1071 at the time of the Norman/Arab wars. 

Palermo - Porta Sant'Agata

Chiesa di San Giovanni Degli Eremiti is one of Palermo's finest examples of Arab-Norman architecture.  The five-domed, 12th-century church is named for a Sicilian hermit monk. The church is surrounded by a garden of citrus trees, palms, cacti, and rosemary bushes.  The church is built atop a mosque that itself was superimposed on a 6th-century Benedictine chapel.  Also on the grounds are the ruins of the monastery's Norman-era cloister.

Palermo - San Giovanni degli Eremiti

Palermo - San Giovanni degli Eremiti

Palermo - San Giovanni degli Eremiti

Palermo - San Giovanni degli Eremiti

The Norman Palace is home to Sicily's regional parliament.  The palace dates back to the 9th century and owes its current appearance to a major Norman makeover, during which spectacular mosaics were added to its royal apartments and magnificent chapel, the Cappella Palatina.  The basement contains stone walls of the original Phoenician structures upon which the palace was built.  The Cappella Palatina is not to be missed.

Palermo - Norman Palace

Palermo - Norman Palace

Palermo - Norman Palace

Palermo - Norman Palace

Palermo - Norman Palace

Palermo - Norman Palace - Cappella Palatina

Palermo - Norman Palace - Cappella Palatina

Palermo - Norman Palace - Basement

Palermo - Norman Palace

After the Norman Palace, we started back toward the hotel.  Our first stop was the Cathedral of Palermo, a treasure of Norman architectural style.  It was built in 1184 as a reconverted Christian church on the site of a Muslim Mosque that was previously built over a Christian basilica. This Cathedral is a must-see.

Palermo - Cattidrale di Palermo

Palermo - Cattidrale di Palermo

Palermo - Cattidrale di Palermo

Palermo - Cattidrale di Palermo

There is a meridian line embedded in the floor of the Cathedral.  At noon, depending on the time of the year, the sun shines on the sign of the zodiac corresponding to the time of year.  Since it was late September, the sun beams hit the floor on the spot halfway between the Virgo and Libra zodiac signs.

Palermo - Cattidrale di Palermo - Meridian Line

After the Cathedral, we wandered through several bustling pedestrian zones where we stopped for a late lunch and gelato.  

Palermo - Bustling Pedestrian Zone

After lunch, we continued wandering through the bustling pedestrian zone until we came to Quattro Canti, the elegant epicenter of the old city at the intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda. It is comprised of four symmetrical facades.  Each corner is divided into three classical orders: Doric at the bottom, Ionic in the middle, and Composite at the top. Statues adorn each of the three tiers, representing the seasons at the bottom, Spanish sovereigns in the middle, and female Palermitan saints at the top.

Palermo - Quattro Canti

Palermo - Quattro Canti

Palermo - Bustling Pedestrian Zone

Palermo - Bustling Pedestrian Zone

After the late lunch, we headed to the hotel, stopping at Teatro Massimo along the way. It is an opera house dedicated to King Victor Emanuel II in 1897 and is the biggest in Italy, and one of the largest in Europe, renowned for its perfect acoustics.


Palermo - Teatro Massimo

After resting at the hotel, we wandered back over to the Teatro Massimo pedestrian zone and settled into a cafe called Bottiglieria Massimo Champagneria for a few beers and appetizers before wandering over to another bar and then back to the hotel.

Palermo - Our Bar - Bottiglieria Massimo Champagneria


Itinerary:  Meet up with tour group arriving from the US.   Attend evening orientation meeting and Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant with fellow travelers.

About Palermo from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 92F sunny.

We got up early and had breakfast at 7:15 am to beat the crowd.

By 8:15 am, we were out sightseeing again though we had covered everything of significance the previous day.

We started by visiting the Palermo Port at the end of the street our hotel was on. We passed the ruins of Castello a Mare, which wasn't open due to renovation work, and admired the marina before going back into Old Town to hike streets we missed the day earlier. There was a constant stream of runners going by who were either running a race or on an organized training run. At least the weather was still reasonably cool.

Palermo Port - Castello a Mare

Palermo Port - Marina

Palermo Port - Judges Borsellino & Falcone - Assassinated Trying to Eradicate Mafia

We hiked through several residential neighborhoods with their winding, narrow streets and laundry hanging out. We eventually reached Quattro Canti and saw the fountain and churches from the day before. We then hiked back over to Mercato Ballaro from the day before and walked through the market again.

Palermo - Residential Street with Laundry Out

We then hiked east and ran into the Cathedral again, then continued down the pedestrian zone but taking different streets than the day before. Eventually, we ran into the spot we had stopped the day earlier for a lunch then took a break and sat at a local coffee (Pedro's Coffee) for 30 minutes of people watching.

Eventually, we ran into Teatro Massimo and continued walking north through a large, modern shopping zone. We browsed the shops for an hour before heading back to the hotel to take a break from the high midday heat.

Around 2 pm, I went down to the hotel lobby to find a business center but one did not exist. So I sat in the lobby and began transferring my pictures off my phone up to my OneDrive because my Google backup was almost full.

At 4 pm we stepped over to the pedestrian area we hung out the day before near the Massimo Theater. We had a cold drink while people-watching for an hour before going back to the hotel.

Palermo - Our Bar - Bottiglieria Massimo Champagneria

At 6:15 pm, we met our wonderful Gate1 tour leader, Viviana, and the tour group in the lobby of the hotel for an orientation meeting. The group was comprised of 20 people, all from the US. After the meeting, we walked over to a local restaurant called Giada for a traditional Sicilian dinner. Besides wine, there was pasta for the first course, veal balls on a bed of lettuce for the second course, and coffee and pistachio ice cream with chocolate sauce for dessert.

After dinner, we returned to the hotel.





Itinerary:  Travel to the hilltop town of Monreale to visit the Norman Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece, with its interior of glittering 12th century Byzantine mosaics. Return to Palermo for a tour of the ancient Old City with its incredible mix of architectural styles, including its magnificent Cathedral. In the afternoon, venture to the charming seaside town of Cefalu, distinguished by its medieval settings. See the magnificent Piazza del Duomo and the delightful Fisherman's Village nestled on one of Sicily's most beautiful sand beaches. Stroll the picturesque lanes in the historical center before returning to Palermo.

About Monreale Cathedral from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 82F and sunny.

We were back on the schedule of an organized tour after 4 days on our own exploring Venice and Palermo.

We got a 6:00 am wake-up call and ate breakfast at 7:00 am. At 7:45 am, we met our local guide, Claudio, our tour director, Viviana, and bus driver, Franco, and departed for nearby Monreale to visit the 12th-century cathedral.

The Monreale Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built by Norman ruler William II.
It incorporates Norman, Arab, Byzantine, and classical elements and is considered the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily. Work on the cathedral began in 1174 and continued over the next four centuries. 

Local Guide - Claudio

Monreale - Long Climb to Town

Monreale - Entering Town

Monreale - Symbol of Sicily - The Legs Repesent  the 3 Corners of the Island

Monreale - Cathedral Square

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Cathedral Square

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - Norman Cathedral

Monreale - View of Palermo

Monreale - View of Palermo

Monreale - View of Palermo

We returned to Palermo for a walking tour of the Old Town. We were not sure what was going to be included in the tour so we had already visited all of the sights over the previous two days.

On our way back to Palermo, we learned that Palermo has 700,000 people. The city walls were built by the Spanish, who controlled Palermo for 500 years. Palermo has 200 churches. The unemployment rate is currently 30%. Palermo was founded by Lebanese Phoenicians and later controlled by Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandal and Ostrogoths, Byzantine Greeks, Aghlabids, Kalbids, Normans, Aragonese and Spanish. The city's diverse architecture reflects its past rulers.

The Palermo city tour was brief. We drove past the Norman Palace and got dropped off at Pretoria Fountain. From there, we walked to Quattro Canti and the Palermo Cathedral before getting back on our bus and driving past Teatro Massimo on our way back to the hotel.

Around noon, we got back on the bus and headed 40 miles east to the wonderful coastal town of Cefalu for an afternoon tour. Because of an accident, the 40-minute trip took 40 minutes longer than expected. While in Cefalu, we took a lunch break before visiting the Cefalu Cathedral, followed by free time to explore Cefalu on our own. We wandered the lively pedestrian zones, walked along the beach, and shopped before driving back to Palermo.

Cefalu - Panorama

Cefalu - Did Not Hike to Top

Cefalu - View Down the Coast

Cefalu - 360 from the Beach

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Pedestrian Zone

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Beach & Pier

Cefalu - Pedestrian Zone

Cefalu - Pedestrian Zone - Ancient Laundromat

Cefalu - Pedestrian Zone - Typical Ceramic Souvenirs

Cefalu - Pedestrian Zone - Ubiquitous Moor Head Souvenirs 

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Cathedral

Cefalu - Walking Back to Bus

Cefalu - Arrivederci Cefalu

We got back to Palermo around 6:30 pm and went back to our favorite cafe near the hotel for some beers and appetizers. The same people were working as Saturday night and they remembered us.

Around 9:00 pm, we returned to the hotel to pack our bags and get ready for tomorrow's drive to Erice to the west of Palermo and Agrigento on the southcentral coast of Sicily.


Itinerary:  Drive the winding roads to mountaintop Erice, a wonderfully preserved medieval town with breathtaking views and a great historical presence. Walk along the cobbled streets lined with superb examples of Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architecture. Savor lunch at a local farm, featuring some of the area's local delicacies, including extra virgin olive oil and wine. Visit 
the island's landmark windmills and salt mines and Scala dei Turchi before reaching Agrigento.

About Erice from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 82F and sunny.

We had an early wake-up call and early breakfast so we could depart Palermo by 7:45 am.

Today we drove 150 miles total. Our first stop was the northwest coastal town of Erice, followed by a lunch stop in Marsala, and finally the southern coastal town of Agrigento. The road along the northern coast was flanked by towering green mountains, olive groves, grapevines, cacti, and cypress trees.

There was a big traffic jam coming out of Palermo due to an accident in a tunnel the night before. The wait was so long that people were outside their cars standing in the road talking to one another. Eventually, we got out of the traffic jam and it was smooth sailing all the way to Erice.

We had a rest stop halfway followed by a short photo stop at a scenic overlook near Castellammare del Golfo.

At 11 am, we reached Erice,
a spectacular walled 12th-century city situated atop legendary Eryx peak 2,400' above sea level, and home to a medieval castle built between the 12th and 13th centuries. We had time on our own to explore the castle and the winding medieval streets. One could easily lose oneself in the maze of stone-paved streets and panoramic views.

Erice - Historic Town Map

Palermo - Another Big Traffic Jam

Between Palermo & Erice - Castellammare del Golfo

Between Palermo & Erice - White Marble Source

Erice - Long, Winding Road to Get There

Erice - City Gate

Erice - Main Pedestrian Street

Erice - Residential Area

Erice - Main Pedestrian Street

Erice - Residential Area

Erice - Market Square 

Erice - Main Pedestrian Street

Erice - Main Pedestrian Street

Erice - Main Pedestrian Street

Erice - Torre di Federico & Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

Erice - Residential Area

Erice - Residential Area

Erice - Castello di Venere

Erice - View from Castello di Venere

Erice - View from Castello di Venere

Erice - View from Castello di Venere


Erice - View from Castello di Venere

Erice - Real Duomo

Erice - Real Duomo

Erice - Tunisia, Africa Is in the Distance

Erice - Pastry Shop

Erice - Waiting for the Group to Catch Up

After visiting Erice, we got back on my bus and headed 15 miles south towards the town of Marsala on the west coast of Sicily for traditional Sicilian lunch, including olive oil and wine tasting. The place we stopped at was called Baglio Fontanasalsa. Everything was delicious. During the live entertainment portion of our lunch, I got called up with three other men in the group to pretend to be donkeys during a certain part of one song.

South of Erice - Lunch Stop

South of Erice - Lunch Stop - Olive Trees

South of Erice - Lunch Stop - Baglio Fontanasalsa

South of Erice - Lunch Stop - Olive Oil Tasting

Just outside of Marsala, we made an unplanned stop at Saline di Laguna Marsala. It's a place where seawater is evaporated to extract salt, which is then used for a variety of purposes.
Saline di Laguna Marsala
Saline di Laguna Marsala

Saline di Laguna Marsala

Saline di Laguna Marsala

We made a second unplanned stop outside of Agrigento at Scala Dei Turchi (Turkish Steps), which are these beautiful white cliffs carved into the shoreline. It is located along the stretch of the sea between Realmonte and Porto Empedocle (Agrigento) and its rock is made of soft limestone and blinding white marl. Nature, as a great artist, has worked this material over time, making it soft and sinuous, with the help of the sea and the salty breeze, creating terraces and smoothing every corner.

Near Agrigento - Turkish Steps

Near Agrigento - Turkish Steps

Near Agrigento - Turkish Steps

Near Agrigento - Turkish Steps

Near Agrigento - Turkish Steps

Around 6:46 pm, we arrived in Agrigento, a hilltop town on the southern coast of Sicily. We checked into our hotel and then had dinner.

Agrigento - Aqueduct Seen on Way to Agrigento

Agrigento - View from Hotel


Itinerary:  Today, discover Agrigento's celebrated Valley of the Temples, the largest and best-preserved temple ruins outside of mainland Greece.  After lunch at a local winery, travel to the coastal town of Giardini Naxos. 

About Valley of the Temples in Agrigento from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 80F and sunny.

I got up at 6:00 am and by 6:45 am was down having breakfast. We departed at 8 am to discover Agrigento's celebrated Valley of the Temples, the largest and best-preserved temple ruins outside of mainland Greece.

We met our local guide, Claus, and toured this magnificent archaeological park consisting of eight Greek temples, built between 430 and 510 BC, all majestically positioned in the same area on rocky crests south of modern-day Agrigento. The
magnificent tour lasted about 90 minutes.

Valley of the Temples - Local Guide Claus
Valley of the Temples - Temple of Juno

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Juno

Valley of the Temples - Student Archeologists at Work

Valley of the Temples - Bring Your Walking Shoes

Valley of the Temples - Above Ground Tombs

Valley of the Temples - Decorative Statuary

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Concordia

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Concordia

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Concordia

Valley of the Temples - Rare Agrigento Goats

Valley of the Temples - Tombs

Valley of the Temples - Indigenous Plants

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Hercules

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Zeus

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Zeus

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Zeus

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Zeus

Valley of the Temples - Temple of Castor & Pollux

Valley of the Temples - Assorted Ruins

We stopped for lunch and wine tasting at Tenuta del Gelso just outside of Catania. Our host Frederico told us the history of the winery and then we sampled their delicious red, white and rose wines from the Mt. Etna area. We also had a live music show where members of the group were asked to participate. I always get called out on these things and ended up dancing up in front of the group with a few other men from our group. At the end, we had to pretend to be donkeys. After a few glasses of wine, anything is possible. We had a good time.

Frederico Tells Us About Mt Etna Wine

Delicious, But Not Available in US

Delicious, But Not Available in US

Delicious Appetizer

Main Course and More Wine

Yet More Wine

I'm the Entertainment...Look Ma, I'm a Donkey!

Time for a Nap

After lunch, we traveled to the town of Giardini Naxos. We checked into our hotel and spent some time wandering around town before nightfall. It was a pretty little seaside town but not much going on outside the main drag where all the bars, restaurants, and hotels were located. We found a somewhat busy cafe for dinner, but nothing special. What appeared to be a sausage pizza on the menu ended up being a pizza with hot dogs (and French fries). I ate as much as I could and fed the hot dogs to all the stray cats on the way back to the hotel.

  


Itinerary:  Begin with a visit to the lava-crusted slopes of Mt. Etna, which stands 11,000 feet tall, dominates the scenery, and is the most active volcano in Europe! Ascend the Mount to reach the Silvestri Craters; step carefully on the varied layers of lava that have solidified over the centuries. Learn about Etna’s impact on the surrounding area and its unique geology. In the afternoon, a panoramic tour of nearby Taormina that includes the massive Greek Theater, one of the largest in Sicily, to enjoy remarkable panoramas of the city and countryside.

About Mt. Etna from Lonely Planet
About Giardini Naxos from Lonely Planet
About Taormina from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 78F and overcast early but sunny later.

Today's tour took us halfway up Mt Etna followed by a tour of the nearby coastal town of Taormina.

Mt. Etna is the highest volcano in Europe (11,000') and one of the most active in the world. Its spectacular eruptions and fiery lava flows have aroused the curiosity of scientists and visitors for centuries. Mt. Etna has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2013.

The volcano erupted 2 days earlier with a 6-mile high plume. So there were piles of black ash all over.

We departed the hotel at 8:30 am. By 9 am, we met our guide, Flavia, transferred to a minibus and were slowly ascending the windy road up to the Silvestri Craters halfway up Mt. Etna. It was terribly foggy and it looked like our visit was going to be a bust. But 5 minutes into our one-hour walk, the sun broke through and the clouds cleared long enough for us to get some great photos. The fog rolled in heavy again toward the end of our visit, leaving me somewhat concerned about losing my way back to the parking lot because I couldn't see more than 10 feet in front of me as I came down the mountain trail.

Mt Etna on a Clear Day

Mt Etna - Previous Day - Clouds Moving In

Mt Etna - Ash from Eruption Two Days Earlier

Mt Etna - Making Our Way Up to Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Heavy Fog

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Hikers Waiting Out Fog

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Prays Answered, Fog Lifts

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Restaurant Buried in Lava Flow - Still Open

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Restaurant Buried in Lava Flow - Still Open

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters
Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters - Hardened Lave Flow

Mt Etna - Silvestri Craters

In the afternoon, our local guide, Diana, took us on a panoramic tour of Taormina that included the massive Greek Theater, one of the largest in Sicily, from which we enjoyed remarkable panoramic views of the city and countryside, and free time to explore on our own. Perched on the side of a mountain, Taormina was founded by the Greeks in the 4th century BC.  It was later controlled by the Romans and then the Normans in 1087 before falling into obscurity.  It was reborn as one of Sicily's most popular summer destinations.  This town was my favorite one on the tour.

Taormina - Diana Local Guide

Taormina - On the Way up to Town

Taormina - Porta Messina

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - One of Many Piazzas

Taormina - One of Many Piazzas

Taormina - Near Porta Catania

Taormina - Porta Catania

Taormina - Scenic Overlook

Taormina - Scenic Overlook

Taormina - Scenic Overlook

Taormina - Scenic Overlook

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Porta Catania

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - One of Many Piazzas

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Commercial District - Narrow Stairway

Taormina - Commercial District - Narrow Stairway

Taormina - Commercial District

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - from Greek Theater

Taormina - from Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - from Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - from Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater - Goethe's Spot

Taormina - Greek Theater

Taormina - Greek Theater - Ancient Pottery

Taormina - Hilltop Fortress

At 6:30 pm, we returned to the hotel for the mandatory COVID antigen test needed for re-entry to the US.

After that, we went out for dinner before retiring for the evening.


Itinerary:  Travel to Syracuse to step back in time to the bygone era of Greek Sicily, and explore the birthplace of Archimedes.  Morning visit to Neapolis Archaeological Park, the Greek Theatre, the remains of Roman Amphitheater, and the "Ear of Dionysius," an awe-inspiring artificial limestone cave renowned for its outstanding acoustics. Afternoon visit to Syracuse old quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located on the island of Ortygia.

About Syracuse from Lonely Planet
About Parco Archeologico della Neapolis from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 78F and sunny.

We got up before 6 am, had breakfast at 7 am, and departed at 8 am for the 2-1/2-hour drive south to Syracuse.

Upon arrival at 10:30 am, we met yesterday's guide, Diana, and stepped back in time to the bygone era of Greek Sicily.

Our first stop in Syracuse was the Neapolis Archaeological Park,
UNESCO World Heritage site containing the Greek Theatre, the remains of Roman Amphitheater, and the "Ear of Dionysius," an awe-inspiring artificial limestone cave renowned for its outstanding acoustics.

Neapolis Archaeological Park & Syracuse - Diana Local Guide

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Outdoor Ceremony Area

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Prison Entrance
Neapolis Archaeological Park - Prison Yard

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Prison Yard

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Prison Yard

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Whimsical Arbor Walkway

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Manmade Underpass

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Prison Wall

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Ear of Dionysius - Huge Manmade Cave

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Ear of Dionysius - Huge Manmade Cave

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Ear of Dionysius - Huge Manmade Cave

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Manmade Caverns & Tunnels

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Whimsical Arbor Walkway

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Greek Theater


Neapolis Archaeological Park - Greek Theater - 360 Photo

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Roman Amphitheater

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Roman Amphitheater

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Roman Amphitheater

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Roman Amphitheater

Neapolis Archaeological Park - Roman Amphitheater

We then drove to the old quarter of Syracuse, a UNESCO World Heritage site,
located on the island of Ortygia. Syracuse was founded by Corinthian colonists in 734 BC.  The city encapsulates Sicily's timeless beauty.  It was once the largest city in the ancient world.  Today, it is a maze of medieval streets and baroque piazzas surrounded by citrus orchards and the dep  blue sea.  We had a short tour before venturing on our own. The tour took us up the main shopping street to the main square featuring the most impressive cathedral.

Syracuse - Marina Near Old Quarter

Syracuse - Archimedes Born Here

Syracuse - Temple of Apollo

Syracuse - Temple of Apollo

Syracuse - City Wall Ruins

Syracuse - Medieval Shopping Street

Syracuse -  Cathedral of Syracuse

Syracuse -  Cathedral of Syracuse

Syracuse -  Cathedral Square

Syracuse -  Cathedral Square

Syracuse -  Cathedral of Syracuse

Syracuse -  Cathedral of Syracuse

Syracuse -  Harbor

Syracuse - Fontana di Diana

Syracuse - Medieval Shopping Street

Syracuse - Typical Medieval Street

In the evening, we had our farewell dinner to mark the end of the tour, and then it was back to the room to pack our bags for the trip back to Palermo the following day.


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Itinerary:  Travel from Giardina Naxos to Piazza Armerina to view intricate examples of Roman mosaics at the famous Roman Villa del Casale, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Continue to 
Enna near the center of the country for traditional Sicilian lunch at a local farm. Continue to Palermo and bid farewell to newfound friends on the last night in Sicily.

About Piazza Armerina from Lonely Planet

Daily Journal

Weather: 80F and sunny.

Today we drove back to Palermo with a stop in the town of Piazza America where we visited the ruins of 3rd-century Villa Romana del Casale. Villa Romana was buried under the mud of a 12th-century flood and remained hidden for 700 years before its magnificent, well-preserved mosaics were discovered in the 1950s. These extraordinarily vivid mosaics deal with numerous subjects ranging from Homeric escapades and mythological scenes to portrayals of daily life. It was easy to see why Villa Romana is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Upon arrival, we met our local guide, Manuela, for a tour of Villa Romana. On the outside of Villa Romana, we saw the ruins of an aqueduct, thermal baths, latrines, receiving hall, and cathedral.

Villa Romana - Local Guide Mauela

Villa Romana - Aqueduct

Villa Romana - Thermal Baths

Villa Romana - Receiving Hall & Cathedral

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Large Latrine

Villa Romana - Small Latrine

On the inside of Villa Romana, we saw exquisite inlaid mosaics tile floors dating back to the 3rd century, including the 180-foot Corridor of the Great Hunt and the Room of 10 Girls in Bikinis.
Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - 180' The Great Hunt

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Room of 10 Girls in Bikinis

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - Exquisite Mosaic Tiling

Villa Romana - The Cyclops

After touring Villa Romana, we traveled to Enna near the tranquil center of Sicily for a delicious Sicilian lunch amongst the olive groves and rolling hills. Our lunch stop was a local farm and B&B called Baglio Pollicarini.

Sicilian Lunch at Baglio Pollicarini in Enna

Scenery at Baglio Pollicarini in Enna (360 Degrees)

After lunch, we headed 2-1/2 hours back to Palermo and checked back into the Hotel Mercure Centro. After packing our bags, we ventured to our favorite bar near the Massimo Theater (Bottiglieria Massimo -Champagneriafor a farewell drink and to reminisce about our experiences in Sicily.


Itinerary:  
Arrivederci! Return home to USA.

Daily Journal

Weather: 80F and sunny in Palermo.  72F in Milwaukee.

Today, we endured the 20-hour flight home from Palermo to Chicago via Munich, Germany. To our surprise, our bus driver Franco picked us up in a minivan at 9:00 am for the 30-minute drive to the Palermo airport. We thought we had seen the last of Franco when he dropped us off at the hotel the previous day.

By 9:30 am, we were at the airport checking in to our 11:55 am, two-hour flight to Munich.

Arrivederci, Sicily! On Way to Munich, Germany

The flight to Munich arrived 15 minutes early at 1:45 pm. We had a 2-hour layover. The thoroughness of the COVID check at the Munich airport was rather surprising given how lax it had been for the fast few weeks in Italy. The gate agents verified negative test results were within 72 hours of departure to the US, and crosschecked names on test results and vaccine cards to passport information. 

By 3:45 pm, our A350-900 widebody jet departed Munich for the 4,600-mile transatlantic flight to Chicago O'Hare airport. I watched movies and slept on and off during the 8-1/2-hour flight.

Flight from Munich To Chicago O'Hare

We arrived in Chicago at 6:15 pm but weren't able to clear customs fast enough to catch the 6:45 pm CoachUSA bus to Milwaukee. So we had to wait for the 8:45 pm bus as originally planned.
The arrival in Chicago was made even more dramatic by cameras mounted on the exterior of the plane that you can watch on your personal TV screen (see video below).

Arriving in Chicago, USA



Even When Told Twice to Remain Seated...Still Taxiing to Gate

The bus left on time and we arrived back in Milwaukee at 10:40 pm and got to my house nearby at 10:45 pm.

Although I was glad to have experienced another overseas trip, it always feels good to be home.

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